Addicted Offroad plate bumper, modified for 1" BL??

[KentuckyRunner]

Has anyone modified an addicted plate bumper for a 1" bodylift? I think it's one of the best looking bumpers out there, but idk if I could stand having a big gap from bumper to body. Does anyone have pics of the backside of an addicted plate bumper so I can figure out what I'd have to do to modify it? Thanks for any input or pics.

 

[gclark14]

Has anyone modified an addicted plate bumper for a 1" bodylift? I think it's one of the best looking bumpers out there, but idk if I could stand having a big gap from bumper to body. Does anyone have pics of the backside of an addicted plate bumper so I can figure out what I'd have to do to modify it? Thanks for any input or pics.

I can snag some pics here in a sec

 

[gclark14]

 

[JayRolla]

Has anyone modified an addicted plate bumper for a 1" bodylift? I think it's one of the best looking bumpers out there, but idk if I could stand having a big gap from bumper to body. Does anyone have pics of the backside of an addicted plate bumper so I can figure out what I'd have to do to modify it? Thanks for any input or pics.

Here is a pic of the mounting bracket.

 

[KentuckyRunner]

Thanks for the pics guys. Looks like it'd be very easy to do. I'd leave the addicted crossmember as is, and modify and brace the bumper.

Jayrolla, after looking at yours, I may be able to live with the gap. The alternative to raising the bumper, would be to use some 1" flat stock on edge to cover the gap. Bend it around to match the contour on either side.

 

[BrandonF]

To me, the easiest solution would be to just make a new crossmember with the holes moved 1" upwards. Or better yet, request a regular crossmember with no holes and then modify it and drill your own.

OR, even easier, just get rid of your body lift altogether because they are lame.

 

[JayRolla]

Thanks for the pics guys. Looks like it'd be very easy to do. I'd leave the addicted crossmember as is, and modify and brace the bumper.

Jayrolla, after looking at yours, I may be able to live with the gap. The alternative to raising the bumper, would be to use some 1" flat stock on edge to cover the gap. Bend it around to match the contour on either side.

It dont bother me at all anymore. Its not a huge deal really. Just make it strong enough to winch from, thats the biggest concern.

 

[KentuckyRunner]

To me, the easiest solution would be to just make a new crossmember with the holes moved 1" upwards. Or better yet, request a regular crossmember with no holes and then modify it and drill your own.

OR, even easier, just get rid of your body lift altogether because they are lame.

I don't believe they'll ship the crossmember with no holes, I emailed them before and the reply I got made it seem like they were 100% not interested in building it for a BL or talking about how to modify it. Fair is fair, they can sell their product how they want. That addicted crossmember would need taller mounts to move the top hole, which would then need to be gusseted for strength. My thoughts with only modding the bumper is to 1" wide by 1/4" thick flat stock welded solid across the bottom, then gusset down to that on both sides, and redrill my holes accordingly.

If I remove the bodylift, I don't think I'll clear my tires at full lock, even with hammered pinch welds. 295/70-17 with a -12 offset. So I may have to continue to be lame.

In all truth, I can probably live with the gap. I think pics make it look worse than it would in person.

 

[BrandonF]

I don't believe they'll ship the crossmember with no holes, I emailed them before and the reply I got made it seem like they were 100% not interested in building it for a BL or talking about how to modify it. Fair is fair, they can sell their product how they want. That addicted crossmember would need taller mounts to move the top hole, which would then need to be gusseted for strength. My thoughts with only modding the bumper is to 1" wide by 1/4" thick flat stock welded solid across the bottom, then gusset down to that on both sides, and redrill my holes accordingly.

If I remove the bodylift, I don't think I'll clear my tires at full lock, even with hammered pinch welds. 295/70-17 with a -12 offset. So I may have to continue to be lame.

In all truth, I can probably live with the gap. I think pics make it look worse than it would in person.

I've heard that before about the body lifts. Apparently the concern is that the winch will be 1" higher and therefore put more stress on the frame. Its a valid concern but I've had no problems with the bumper I made and my winch sits half in the grill. I've done lots of hard winching and theres been no visible flex or issues.

I see your point with the body lift. I have 285's with quite a bit of offset and I've had to do a lot of work to make them clear properly.