Bagels
New member
In this thread I'll be sharing how I mounted led lights to my stock roof rail using 3D printed mounts that I designed myself.
Link to STL: 4th Gen 4runner Stock Roof Rack Light Mount by BagelBogged - Thingiverse
Link to LED Lights (affiliated): Amazon.com
I've found myself in many situations where having lights on the side of the vehicle would be so nice to have. I recently installed rock lights as courtesy lights and figured I make a mount to add some more to the roof rack.
First I took measurements to figure of the general design and then modeled the mount in SketchUp. I figured one per corner would be enough. I wanted the lights to be pointed ~45 degrees down and also be yawed slightly to cover more area.
Taking the measurements then I modeled the mount in sketchup.
From there I sent the design to my 3D Printer, Ender 3. I'm using PETG filament which is stronger and better in the sun.
I printed a total of 4 mounts and then installed the lights on them using the provided mounting hardware.
As far as mounting to the roof rack itself I used 5/16" -18 x 0.625" bolts and 5/16"-18 T-Slot nuts. Also added in a lock washer.
With the lights mounted in their positions it was time to do the wiring. I used 18 gauge wiring for the install and a switch mounted in the dash to an always hot 12V source so I could turn them on whenever I wanted.
One wire is ran up the weatherstrip channel on each side and connected to the two LEDs per side. The wires are held in place in the roof rack channel with the vinyl covers that were installed on the end of the channels. Each cover is about 4" in length and I just cut them into smaller sections to hold the wires in the channel in more spots.
Each wire is ran into the engine bay where they are zip tied out of the way and then combined into one wire that goes through the firewall and tapped into the power source with a switch.
To remove the roof rack cover pieces you need to disengage the clips (2 per side) with a flat head screw driver. I was worried about the clips breaking off so I heated them up before removing to make them more pliable. It worked and none of the clips broke off.
With the cover removed you can remove the two 12mm bolts to lift it up enough for you to run your wires. I ended up drilling a small hole here to give me a good spot to run my wires through the mounting bracket.
Make sure the wire isn't getting pinched when you lower the bracket back down. Have the wire exit the cover at the start of the channel and then you can replace your 12mm bolts and snap the cover back on.
Soldering the wires together at the roof rack:
Pic before soldering:
Soldered, shrink wrapped, and additional tape just in case:
View of the channel with the wire running through it and the cut up vinyl covers holding it in place.
Final product:
Link to STL: 4th Gen 4runner Stock Roof Rack Light Mount by BagelBogged - Thingiverse
Link to LED Lights (affiliated): Amazon.com
I've found myself in many situations where having lights on the side of the vehicle would be so nice to have. I recently installed rock lights as courtesy lights and figured I make a mount to add some more to the roof rack.
First I took measurements to figure of the general design and then modeled the mount in SketchUp. I figured one per corner would be enough. I wanted the lights to be pointed ~45 degrees down and also be yawed slightly to cover more area.
Taking the measurements then I modeled the mount in sketchup.
From there I sent the design to my 3D Printer, Ender 3. I'm using PETG filament which is stronger and better in the sun.
I printed a total of 4 mounts and then installed the lights on them using the provided mounting hardware.
As far as mounting to the roof rack itself I used 5/16" -18 x 0.625" bolts and 5/16"-18 T-Slot nuts. Also added in a lock washer.
With the lights mounted in their positions it was time to do the wiring. I used 18 gauge wiring for the install and a switch mounted in the dash to an always hot 12V source so I could turn them on whenever I wanted.
One wire is ran up the weatherstrip channel on each side and connected to the two LEDs per side. The wires are held in place in the roof rack channel with the vinyl covers that were installed on the end of the channels. Each cover is about 4" in length and I just cut them into smaller sections to hold the wires in the channel in more spots.
Each wire is ran into the engine bay where they are zip tied out of the way and then combined into one wire that goes through the firewall and tapped into the power source with a switch.
To remove the roof rack cover pieces you need to disengage the clips (2 per side) with a flat head screw driver. I was worried about the clips breaking off so I heated them up before removing to make them more pliable. It worked and none of the clips broke off.
With the cover removed you can remove the two 12mm bolts to lift it up enough for you to run your wires. I ended up drilling a small hole here to give me a good spot to run my wires through the mounting bracket.
Make sure the wire isn't getting pinched when you lower the bracket back down. Have the wire exit the cover at the start of the channel and then you can replace your 12mm bolts and snap the cover back on.
Soldering the wires together at the roof rack:
Pic before soldering:
Soldered, shrink wrapped, and additional tape just in case:
View of the channel with the wire running through it and the cut up vinyl covers holding it in place.
Final product:
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