Antman
Elite Member
Hey look, it's our moderator....oh, nevermind. :noidea:
Adventures of 4RnR Grl (and build)
- Thread starter 4RnR Grl
- Start date
Hey look, it's our moderator....oh, nevermind. :noidea:
Meh, just leave the crack, adds character haha. That sucks though. Since it rained pretty hard in VA last night, I noticed about a dozen chips in mine. Going to try and get OEM glass I think.
4RnR Grl
New member
CB Radio Install.
Today was pretty much my last opportunity to get my radio installed before next weekend. Amazon decided to turn 2-day shipping into three, so I was chomping at the bit this morning. It was on the porch by 10am... yes, on a Sunday.
I purchased the Midland 40 channel radio from Amazon. It had good reviews on Amazon and was a nice small unit. I also got a 3 foot tunable firestik antenna, antenna spring, mount and 18 feet of coaxial. I had no idea where it was going to go, so the entire install was spur of the moment decisions. A friend of mine who wheels his Jeep, helped me with the install. I did know that I did not want the radio visible in the cab and I wanted the install to be reversible in case I decide to move it later, etc.
First thing we did was fit the antenna cable through the firewall on the passenger side. We used a cable fisher to get it through then pushed the rubber back into place after. No pic, sorry.
We decided to power it using the power outlet in the front, next to the USB port. Apart came the dash... which was super easy. Pull the two pillars below the heat selector knobs hard and they pop off. Take out the two 10mm bolts on either side of the cubby, flip the cubby lid up and wiggle it out.
We tested the wires with a multimeter to find the hot wire. It was the green one. Then disconnected the battery. At this point we tried the radio in various places, keeping in mind how much wire we had to work with. I finally decided on the center console cubby. Out came the console. Remove the 4 bolts and unplug the 4wd selector and the 110v power to the console. It pops right out.
We drilled a hole through the bottom of the console box from the bottom for the antenna and power wires.
We put the console back in place and then test wired up the radio to the power source to make sure everything worked.
We reconnected the battery and everything worked fine, disconnected and soldered the positive wire and shrink wrapped.
We grounded the negative wire to a bolt we found under the area where the 4wd selector knobs sits. Next up, a hole was drilled behind the left side bumper hoop.
We installed the mount, spring and antenna then plugged in the antenna wire. We ran the line on the inside between the air box and fender wall and tucked it into the existing plastic cable runs on that side. We pulled the slack into the cabin, wound it up near the gear shifter and zip tied everything in place.
We put the dash and console back together, then fitted the radio with some industrial strength velcro. It was mounted on the flat back wall of the console box. I did a radio check with my friend and everything worked!
All done.
Today was pretty much my last opportunity to get my radio installed before next weekend. Amazon decided to turn 2-day shipping into three, so I was chomping at the bit this morning. It was on the porch by 10am... yes, on a Sunday.
I purchased the Midland 40 channel radio from Amazon. It had good reviews on Amazon and was a nice small unit. I also got a 3 foot tunable firestik antenna, antenna spring, mount and 18 feet of coaxial. I had no idea where it was going to go, so the entire install was spur of the moment decisions. A friend of mine who wheels his Jeep, helped me with the install. I did know that I did not want the radio visible in the cab and I wanted the install to be reversible in case I decide to move it later, etc.
First thing we did was fit the antenna cable through the firewall on the passenger side. We used a cable fisher to get it through then pushed the rubber back into place after. No pic, sorry.
We decided to power it using the power outlet in the front, next to the USB port. Apart came the dash... which was super easy. Pull the two pillars below the heat selector knobs hard and they pop off. Take out the two 10mm bolts on either side of the cubby, flip the cubby lid up and wiggle it out.
We tested the wires with a multimeter to find the hot wire. It was the green one. Then disconnected the battery. At this point we tried the radio in various places, keeping in mind how much wire we had to work with. I finally decided on the center console cubby. Out came the console. Remove the 4 bolts and unplug the 4wd selector and the 110v power to the console. It pops right out.
We drilled a hole through the bottom of the console box from the bottom for the antenna and power wires.
We put the console back in place and then test wired up the radio to the power source to make sure everything worked.
We reconnected the battery and everything worked fine, disconnected and soldered the positive wire and shrink wrapped.
We grounded the negative wire to a bolt we found under the area where the 4wd selector knobs sits. Next up, a hole was drilled behind the left side bumper hoop.
We installed the mount, spring and antenna then plugged in the antenna wire. We ran the line on the inside between the air box and fender wall and tucked it into the existing plastic cable runs on that side. We pulled the slack into the cabin, wound it up near the gear shifter and zip tied everything in place.
We put the dash and console back together, then fitted the radio with some industrial strength velcro. It was mounted on the flat back wall of the console box. I did a radio check with my friend and everything worked!
All done.
Last edited:
4RnR Grl
New member
I was terrified to mount it on sheet metal and Antman pointed out how flimsy the stock antenna mount is (I considered a dual antenna). When I get my rear bumper I may move it there. [emoji48]
Jhalko
New member
I've got a CBI ditch bracket I'm using, the spot seems good but I really like the idea of the CB in the center console. My swr was good but not confident the radio itself is cutting it...
4RnR Grl
New member
Dog Storage Cubby
This spring I started spending at least two weekends a month on the road with at least one dog, sometimes two. I had a set of side by side SUV crates and was in desperate need of storage for field events and dog shows. I decided to build a cubby space beneath the crates. Because the weight of each crate is 35-40lbs and the combined weight of the dogs is nearly 200lbs, it had to be very sturdy. The set of SUV crates I have are made by Midwest. They measure 21 inches wide, 36 inches deep and 26 inches high. They are smaller than the recommended size, but in an accident situation I feel that smaller is better.
First thing I did was bungee the crates together. I measured their true height and combined width. If I built the cubby too tall, the crates wouldn't fit. I also decided I wanted the cubby to still fit in the truck without the crates and the back seats able to be used. The crates also had to be secured with ratchet straps so access to the tie downs was paramount.
I decided to use 3/4 inch plywood it was sturdy and paintable. I cut the pieces and laid them out double checking my measurements.
I screwed everything together using 1 1/2 inch wood screws then put it into the truck. It fit perfectly.
Next to the wheel hump.
Front tie downs access.
Finished and crates tied down from the rear....
From the front.....
Another angle. Everything fits perfect.
Happy dogs at a field trial.
This spring I started spending at least two weekends a month on the road with at least one dog, sometimes two. I had a set of side by side SUV crates and was in desperate need of storage for field events and dog shows. I decided to build a cubby space beneath the crates. Because the weight of each crate is 35-40lbs and the combined weight of the dogs is nearly 200lbs, it had to be very sturdy. The set of SUV crates I have are made by Midwest. They measure 21 inches wide, 36 inches deep and 26 inches high. They are smaller than the recommended size, but in an accident situation I feel that smaller is better.
First thing I did was bungee the crates together. I measured their true height and combined width. If I built the cubby too tall, the crates wouldn't fit. I also decided I wanted the cubby to still fit in the truck without the crates and the back seats able to be used. The crates also had to be secured with ratchet straps so access to the tie downs was paramount.
I decided to use 3/4 inch plywood it was sturdy and paintable. I cut the pieces and laid them out double checking my measurements.
I screwed everything together using 1 1/2 inch wood screws then put it into the truck. It fit perfectly.
Next to the wheel hump.
Front tie downs access.
Finished and crates tied down from the rear....
From the front.....
Another angle. Everything fits perfect.
Happy dogs at a field trial.
CF_Machete
Senior Member
good idea w/ the cubby. Any plans to spray it w/ bead liner or carpet it up?
4RnR Grl
New member
I actually did spray it with bedliner later. It has worked out really well.
4RnR Grl
New member
Between my weekend at the Cove, last weekend's halloween party and my husband's race weekend this coming weekend... I finally found the time to scrub the beast. I power washed the mud off her last week but she was still due a scrub. Fluids get changed Friday.
Kind of clean....
Trail damage... lots of scratches... but... no door dings! Hah!
Kind of clean....
Trail damage... lots of scratches... but... no door dings! Hah!
HerT4R
New member
badges of honor!
:trophy:
glad you aren't crying about the pinstriping like too many other members here. pinstriping tells me a 4runner is well loved.
ECUDrummer
New member
Between my weekend at the Cove, last weekend's halloween party and my husband's race weekend this coming weekend... I finally found the time to scrub the beast. I power washed the mud off her last week but she was still due a scrub. Fluids get changed Friday.
Kind of clean....
Trail damage... lots of scratches... but... no door dings! Hah!
Looking nice! I need to clean mine up, but it looks so good dirty.
Ron4RNevada
New member
A dirty truck is a happy truck
4RnR Grl
New member
Indeed... and on a side note... the sliders paid for themselves! They are really scratched... but the doors are not.
BigRyan1986
New member
Between my weekend at the Cove, last weekend's halloween party and my husband's race weekend this coming weekend... I finally found the time to scrub the beast. I power washed the mud off her last week but she was still due a scrub. Fluids get changed Friday.
Kind of clean....
Trail damage... lots of scratches... but... no door dings! Hah!
Those are just battle scars from whooping a trails @$$ is all. :vader: Nice runner. I like the purple devil horn emblems
4RnR Grl
New member
This evening I did some cosmetic/maintenance things. When I got pulled out of the tank trap at the Cove, my front bumper shifted slightly up. It was touching the edge of the fender (sheet metal) and needed to be moved back down. It was rattling and driving me crazy.
Out came the ratchet straps...
In theory I had to loosen the six bolts holding the bumper to the frame. It was a fairly simple task. I thought it would take all of ten minutes.
Well..... I loosened the first two and noticed my wrench wouldn't fit between the connector plate and the nut. Out came three bolts on the connector plate. Got the last bolt loose on the drivers side and moved that side where I wanted it. Tightened bolts back up. Took another look and it was back where it started. Re-loosened the three bolts. Went to loosen the passenger side and now the plate for the washer fluid tank was in the way. Removed those three bolts and the plate. Finally loosen the three on the passenger side, move the bumper to where I want it and get the bumper bolts tightened back down. I double check the bumper position and all is still good. Put the washer fluid plate on, check again. Still good. Go to put the connector plate bolts back in.... they don't line up. Not even close. Loosen the four bolts holding the bottom end of the connector plate to the front of the skid and beat the piss out of it with a rubber mallet. I'm under the bumper pushing up on the plate with my feet and finally get one bolt to fit. Go to the other side. Nope. Not fitting. Remove the first bolt and beat the plate some more with the mallet. I get the center bolt in. Then the next two and tighten them..... what a nightmare. It took just over an hour. [emoji35]
Next up was the rear bumper. It had popped off on the passenger side when I went down into the tank trap the first time and still wasn't seated right. I wanted to pull out the tail light to see if anything was broken.
I found some small pieces of plastic behind the bumper that were loose and a thin metal brace under the bumper that was bent. I pryed it back into place with a screwdriver.
While trying to get things back together I broke a small piece of plastic off and found a loose piece that the tail light sits on. I got it back together and it looks better, but I can tell it's still not right.
Unfortunately the aftermarket rear bumpers that I'm looking at all require the use of the top part of the stock bumper cover. That sucks. So, looks like I may have to replace some of the plastic behind the cover on the fender to get it to seat properly.
[emoji48]
Out came the ratchet straps...
In theory I had to loosen the six bolts holding the bumper to the frame. It was a fairly simple task. I thought it would take all of ten minutes.
Well..... I loosened the first two and noticed my wrench wouldn't fit between the connector plate and the nut. Out came three bolts on the connector plate. Got the last bolt loose on the drivers side and moved that side where I wanted it. Tightened bolts back up. Took another look and it was back where it started. Re-loosened the three bolts. Went to loosen the passenger side and now the plate for the washer fluid tank was in the way. Removed those three bolts and the plate. Finally loosen the three on the passenger side, move the bumper to where I want it and get the bumper bolts tightened back down. I double check the bumper position and all is still good. Put the washer fluid plate on, check again. Still good. Go to put the connector plate bolts back in.... they don't line up. Not even close. Loosen the four bolts holding the bottom end of the connector plate to the front of the skid and beat the piss out of it with a rubber mallet. I'm under the bumper pushing up on the plate with my feet and finally get one bolt to fit. Go to the other side. Nope. Not fitting. Remove the first bolt and beat the plate some more with the mallet. I get the center bolt in. Then the next two and tighten them..... what a nightmare. It took just over an hour. [emoji35]
Next up was the rear bumper. It had popped off on the passenger side when I went down into the tank trap the first time and still wasn't seated right. I wanted to pull out the tail light to see if anything was broken.
I found some small pieces of plastic behind the bumper that were loose and a thin metal brace under the bumper that was bent. I pryed it back into place with a screwdriver.
While trying to get things back together I broke a small piece of plastic off and found a loose piece that the tail light sits on. I got it back together and it looks better, but I can tell it's still not right.
Unfortunately the aftermarket rear bumpers that I'm looking at all require the use of the top part of the stock bumper cover. That sucks. So, looks like I may have to replace some of the plastic behind the cover on the fender to get it to seat properly.
[emoji48]
Jhalko
New member
I can tell it's still not right.
Unfortunately the aftermarket rear bumpers that I'm looking at all require the use of the top part of the stock bumper cover. That sucks. So, looks like I may have to replace some of the plastic behind the cover on the fender to get it to seat properly.
[emoji48]
IDK, looks perfect to me, especially compared to mine, and let's be honest here... When you slap a CBI or SW rear bumper on there no one is going to be looking at those panels you took a saw to anyway.
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