Advice Needed On Bent Transmission Dipstick Tube

[atalarico]

Edited to reword the thread so I can make it easier to read (and hopefully easier to get advice):

My transmission pan lower dipstick tube is bent. I bent it back to as close as I could, but I really didn't want to break the damn thing so I was conservative about it. I filled the pan up with water to check for leaks and didn't see anything obvious.

As I was trying to re-align the upper dipstick tube mount with where it mounts onto the engine I realize that I can't get it to line up without separating the lower and upper dipstick tubes about a half-inch. I know that the o-ring is still in the dipstick tube and it's "sealed", but what I'm wondering is if it's more important to have the upper and lower dipstick tube completely seated together, or the upper mounted to the engine in it's regular spot.

I'm guessing I could just find a new mount for it and hang a zip tie there or something, since it sounds like if that came unseated and I got water in there I would be in a bigger bind than just $74.


Long annoying backstory if you feel like reading it:

I stripped my transmission pan drain plug hole a while back and finally got around to dropping the pan to re-tap the hole. There wasn't enough thread left to save, so I figured that after 5 years of living about 4 miles from the Yota Yard that I should call them up and see if they have a fresher pan for cheap.

They said they should have one and they'll start pulling it off a transmission for me and it'll be $50. I head over there and of course it's not pulled and I wasn't dressed for pick and pull adventures in the junkyard, but we went to go have a look.

The first one he pulls and is ready to sell me has a *huge* dent in it. I point that out and said thanks but really hoping to get one in better shape than the one currently on my car. Cosmetic scratches aren't a big deal to me, but massive dents are.

So, they wrestle another one off of another transmission. As they're doing that, I notice they're rolling the transmission over right onto the dipstick tube and bending it. I politely point that out and they roll it back over. It didn't look too bad or cracked, and I figured I could bend it back into place when I got home.

Somewhere in this process, one of the guys gave himself a pretty serious gash in his hand and only noticed it as he was using the gasoline tub to clean up the pan. I felt really bad and tipped them a $20 for the effort, but I should have just said screw it and got a new one instead since I was up to $74 now.

Sorry for the long wind, I just wanted to explain why I settled and why it's a lesson learned.

 

[atalarico]

bump for the edited and re-organized version.

 

[etc.]

I would return it and ask for a refund.

 

[atalarico]

I would return it and ask for a refund.

Yeah, but I've installed it already, and refilled the ATF. I got it from what is essentially just a junkyard, so let's pretend like asking for a refund is my least viable option here.

 

[etc.]

would opt for a sealed tube vs a mounted separated tube.

The sealed tube will probably need to be secured to something to prevent it from bouncing around.

 

[atalarico]

would opt for a sealed tube vs a mounted separated tube.



The sealed tube will probably need to be secured to something to prevent it from bouncing around.

Yeah, that's kind of what I was thinking too. I think there are a couple options for some stiff zip-ties to secure it in place.

I mean, just to be clear, the lower and upper dipstick tubes are connected, but it's only about halfway in. The upper is secured, so it's not going to get any more separated. Just want to make sure that's clear in case that makes a difference in the advice.

 

[mtbtim]

Yeah, that's kind of what I was thinking too. I think there are a couple options for some stiff zip-ties to secure it in place.

I mean, just to be clear, the lower and upper dipstick tubes are connected, but it's only about halfway in. The upper is secured, so it's not going to get any more separated. Just want to make sure that's clear in case that makes a difference in the advice.

You will not register an accurate fluid level on the dipstick with the tube like this. The dipstick will register less fluid than there actually is in the pan.

 

[atalarico]

You will not register an accurate fluid level on the dipstick with the tube like this. The dipstick will register less fluid than there actually is in the pan.

Yeah, I've thought of that already. However, wouldn't I just have to compensate for the half inch the tubes are separated and visualize the fluid level on the dipstick a half inch higher than it is? Doesn't seem that difficult.

Again, the real question is whether or not it's preferable to have the dipstick tubes completely connected, or the upper tube mounted in its proper mounting location. It sounds like completely connected is the winner, so I'm going to go ahead and find a new mounting location for the upper tube mount.

Thanks!

 

[atalarico]

I finally remembered to take a picture. It's actually a lot less than half an inch I think. Maybe a quarter inch gap, so that o-ring on the upper dipstick is further down.

Any thoughts on what I can use to cover that up? Duct tape? Electrical? I have to clean it up if I use tape since some of the ATF spilled down the stick when I was refilling it.

Thanks!

 

[Joe Z]

If you want to seal it to keep dirt/water out you could take a short piece of black heater hose,slice it open ,slip it over, and use a hose clamp on each end...
Or you could spray it down with starting fluid to clean it up "real good" then get a good quality black automotive silicone and run a bead around it with your finger.

 

[atalarico]

If you want to seal it to keep dirt/water out you could take a short piece of black heater hose,slice it open ,slip it over, and use a hose clamp on each end...
Or you could spray it down with starting fluid to clean it up "real good" then get a good quality black automotive silicone and run a bead around it with your finger.

Awesome! When you say automotive silicone, do you mean like FIPG?

Space is pretty tight in there, and I'm nervous about unscrewing the top-section again to slide any sort of hose over that gap since I had suuuuuch a hard time getting that dang screw in the engine head. I'm not exaggerating, it took almost a half hour to get the right angle and everything for one stinkin' little screw.

I wonder if I did the hose route, but I could slice the hose open to get it around the dipstick instead of having to take the top dipstick out again. Could I seal up the slice with something (silicone? fipg?), and then use the hose clamps?