Advice Wanted:fuel pump replacement

RS Dude

Member
With 320k miles on my original fuel pump, I am considering replacing it with a Denso oem that cost around $70-80 on ebay or Amazon. My original one is still working fine, but I want to avoid being stranded and getting hit with a massive towing charge (like I did when my alt died recently). Any high mileage owners advice is welcome. Thanks in advance.
 
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I've been wondering the same thing myself... I have 350k miles and it's going to go sometime and would rather it be on my terms.
 
With 320k miles on my original fuel pump, I am considering replacing it with a Denso oem that cost around $70-80 on ebay or Amazon. My original one is still working fine, but I want to avoid being stranded and getting hit with a massive towing charge (like I did when my alt died recently). Any high mileage owners advice is welcome. Thanks in advance.
Have your fuel pressure at the rail checked. See if your in good pressure range. I would say 300 to 400k would be a good time to swap it out if concerned about failure. I never had one go bad in 30 years here but I mostly pull the tanks and clean them up etc from the rust as the filling tube can rot out.

With brushes going out in the alt and starters in the range of 180k to 200k. Its definitely good to to thinking about it. However unfortunately I cant answer how long they last as they are excellent little fuel pumps.:(

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I guess a thread of how long did your fuel pump last needs to be created if we dont have one. :)

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Changing the fuel pump is no small task. If you are familiar with older Toyotas, you could access the fuel pump easily from under the seat. No such luck here, you have to drop the tank.

I installed a used DENSO pump with 200k+ miles on it a few years back that provided more flow. DENSO fuel pumps rarely ever fail, they outlast the vehicle. These are not Hondas.
 
I did this today! installed the URD upgraded pump for my supercharger install.

common mechanical understanding and some patience is all that's needed

along with...

12mm
14mm
phillips
pliers
2x crescent wrenches

its not necessarily a tough job, just an odd sized object to be working with (especially on your own....)
 
Changing the fuel pump is no small task. If you are familiar with older Toyotas, you could access the fuel pump easily from under the seat. No such luck here, you have to drop the tank.

I installed a used DENSO pump with 200k+ miles on it a few years back that provided more flow. DENSO fuel pumps rarely ever fail, they outlast the vehicle. These are not Hondas.
I have pulled 3 3rd gen 4runner tanks. The early years are easier then the later ones. I done both. However, they arent horrible. In the rust belt, if you dont keep that tank clean and rust inhibited it will rust through.
As so do the filler tube.

I mostly just run them out of gas. If the pumps gone, you mostly can use a pump inline on the fuel line to suck the fuel out of the tank. Granted, like I said I haven't had one fail yet. Once the tank is out of fuel they are pretty easy to manage.

If the gas tank is full of fuel and you have to drop it out. You better use a hydraulic table or some jacks to get it safely to the ground so you can pop the fuel tank sending unit / pump/ fuel gauge out and drop or pump the gas out.

I just put the runner up on Jack stands. Disconnect the fuel lines and filling tubes. Take off the fuel tank skid plate. Disconnect the wiring under the rear seat. Then try to let the tank down a bit to pull those breather lines off. Once all the lines are off with the wires the tanks come right out and when on the ground empty you can do what we need to do. :)

When I have tanks down. I replace all the screws bolts and gaskets. So that if I never need to get back in there I can. Granted in non rust belt areas. Replacing screws may not be required. :)

I have pictures of my 5 speed gas tank before and after photos somewhere. They probably aren't in my build page as I done that before I had a build page. :)

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I have pulled 3 3rd gen 4runner tanks. The early years are easier then the later ones. I done both. However, they arent horrible. In the rust belt, if you dont keep that tank clean and rust inhibited it will rust through.
As so do the filler tube.

I mostly just run them out of gas. If the pumps gone, you mostly can use a pump inline on the fuel line to suck the fuel out of the tank. Granted, like I said I haven't had one fail yet. Once the tank is out of fuel they are pretty easy to manage.

If the gas tank is full of fuel and you have to drop it out. You better use a hydraulic table or some jacks to get it safely to the ground so you can pop the fuel tank sending unit / pump/ fuel gauge out and drop or pump the gas out.

I just put the runner up on Jack stands. Disconnect the fuel lines and filling tubes. Take off the fuel tank skid plate. Disconnect the wiring under the rear seat. Then try to let the tank down a bit to pull those breather lines off. Once all the lines are off with the wires the tanks come right out and when on the ground empty you can do what we need to do. :)

When I have tanks down. I replace all the screws bolts and gaskets. So that if I never need to get back in there I can. Granted in non rust belt areas. Replacing screws may not be required. :)

I have pictures of my 5 speed gas tank before and after photos somewhere. They probably aren't in my build page as I done that before I had a build page. :)

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For me the vent hoses would not come off and I stripped the compression fitting on the fuel lines. In theory it's not too bad, it really is just a few hoses and wires and lowering the tank. But if something goes wrong like it did for me, it goes downhill fast.

And I agree about running it low or empty. Makes the tank WAY easier to handle.
 
I did mine in the driveway with a couple inches of snow on the ground at about 190k miles, it showed no sign of failure, just parked it for the night and it was dead the next morning. It's not really a hard job at all, especially if you can run the majority of the fuel out of the tank first.

I also have a body lift though, so getting to the lines and fittings was significantly easier.

If you are in a rust belt area be sure to order a new fuel tank strap with your pump, mine was toast, however the tank itself was in surprisingly good shape
 
If you decide to go for the replacement, this video will help you out:


<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/GrzX_K-jcuo" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
My OEM pump died at a little less than 200k miles.
A check valve in the pump kept failing closed when it was hot so it wouldn't start without either starter fluid in the intake or letting it cool down for 1hr+. I was never stranded, but I was late a few times to clients before I realized the starter fluid trick.
I'd say don't bother worrying with checking the fuel pressure and just replace it at 320k. I'd never dropped the tank before and the entire job took me maybe 4 hours. Not too hard.
 
Do you have the older shitty fuel sender? If so I would order the new one with an oem pump and all the gaskets and goodies.

I got all of the parts for around $500 and my mechanic only charged me $180 to do it all. (I do a lot with them so they give me breaks here and there).

Me, I would only use an OEM pump. Japanese parts all the way.
 
Do you have the older shitty fuel sender? If so I would order the new one with an oem pump and all the gaskets and goodies.



I got all of the parts for around $500 and my mechanic only charged me $180 to do it all. (I do a lot with them so they give me breaks here and there).



Me, I would only use an OEM pump. Japanese parts all the way.
I havent seen crappy fuel sender. I have heard the later years ones can have issues.


All that's in the tanks are fuel pump and fuel gauge as I done both earlier and later fuel tank gaskets with new screws.

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I havent seen crappy fuel sender. I have heard the later years ones can have issues.


All that's in the tanks are fuel pump and fuel gauge as I done both earlier and later fuel tank gaskets with new screws.

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There is an older one or the early one, whatever, it reads like ass. I've got the newer one now and it actually makes sense and gives me a legit reading
 
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I found it fairly easy to do. Watched Tims video so I knew what I was up against. Main thing is I didn't run my tank down enough and thought I could syphon the remaining gas out. There's a baffle plate in the way and couldn't get a hose in all the way. So tank was a bit heavy. I just used a standard jack with plywood and then put it on a dolly to move it around. Remember to get the gasket like Tim said, also the filter screen.
I replaced my original 350K+ pump last Summer with an oem. I was popping EFI fuses, thought it might have been the pump, ended up being an unrelated harness short. But I figured it was good preventive maintenance anyway being 20 years old with high mileage.
 

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I found it fairly easy to do. Watched Tims video so I knew what I was up against. Main thing is I didn't run my tank down enough and thought I could syphon the remaining gas out. There's a baffle plate in the way and couldn't get a hose in all the way. So tank was a bit heavy. I just used a standard jack with plywood and then put it on a dolly to move it around. Remember to get the gasket like Tim said, also the filter screen.
I replaced my original 350K+ pump last Summer with an oem. I was popping EFI fuses, thought it might have been the pump, ended up being an unrelated harness short. But I figured it was good preventive maintenance anyway being 20 years old with high mileage.

Hey Keith, glad our video helped you out. In regards to your EFI short, would it blow fuses all the time or just intermittently. I have a friend with the same problem but his seems heat related. His fuse popped on a Death Valley trip and it has also popped back home for him but only on hot days. I have heard that the fuel pump is the component on that EFI circuit that draws the most current from the system and could cause the fuse to blow. When the weather is cooler, his rig seems to be fine. It's my theory that the fuel pump is overheating causing a higher than normal current draw and popping the fuse.

I think I possibly asked you this before but could you share a picture showing exactly where you found your short?
 
I replaced my fuel pump after 303k miles. I was getting really delayed cranking times. I replaced it with this fuel pump:

Amazon.com: MUCO New 1pc High Performance Electric Gas Intank EFI Fuel Pump With Strainer/Filter + Rubber Gasket/Hose + Stainless Steel Clamps + Universal Connector Wiring Harness & Necessary Installation Kit: Automotive

Once the fuel pump assembly was pulled out I had to cut and splice the wires together. It fixed my delayed start and ran much better than before. I also suggest replacing your fuel filter while you're at it.
 
Hey Keith, glad our video helped you out. In regards to your EFI short, would it blow fuses all the time or just intermittently. I have a friend with the same problem but his seems heat related. His fuse popped on a Death Valley trip and it has also popped back home for him but only on hot days. I have heard that the fuel pump is the component on that EFI circuit that draws the most current from the system and could cause the fuse to blow. When the weather is cooler, his rig seems to be fine. It's my theory that the fuel pump is overheating causing a higher than normal current draw and popping the fuse.

I think I possibly asked you this before but could you share a picture showing exactly where you found your short?
Initially I had a less than 1 yr old front cat break into 3 pieces and fell out onto the highway. The plug got a little messed up so I just threw in an an old cat temporarily til I could get a new rig side of plug soldered on, along with a new cat covered by warranty. I just let the plug hang free, it didn't look like it would cause a problem. I went a too long without repairing the plug (7 day work weeks, long hours grind). Was just getting a code for not plugging in the front cat, was running ok. But then it started popping EFI fuses. I ended up finding the front cat plastic plug end fell off later and it had a bare end lead end that was tapping metal and shorting out. So I repaired the harness and has been good ever since. It was my fault anyway, just prolonged a repair I should have taken care of right away.
So maybe an area to look at, that harness and maybe possible the front 02 sensor can maybe short out internally.
Here is a pic of my exploded cat, next to the temp one I put back in. Also a pic of the EFI circuit diagram, not good image. But these are available online in large PDF.
 

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Initially I had a less than 1 yr old front cat break into 3 pieces and fell out onto the highway. The plug got a little messed up so I just threw in an an old cat temporarily til I good get a new rig side of plug soldered on. I just let the plug hang free, it didn't look like it would cause a problem. I went a too long without repairing the plug (7 day work weeks, long hours grind). Was just getting a code for not plugging in the front cat, was running ok. But then it started popping EFI fuses. I ended up finding the front cat plastic plug end fell off later and it had a bare end that lead end that was tapping metal and shorting out. So I repaired the harness and has been good ever since. It was my fault anyway, just prolonged a repair I should have taken care of right away.
So maybe an area to look at, that harness and maybe possible the front 02 sensor can maybe short out internally.
Here is a pic of my exploded cat, next to the temp one I put back in. Also a pic of the EFI circuit diagram, not good image. But these are available online in large PDF.

Ok, thanks. My buddy Aaron doesn't have any obvious wiring issues so the search for the culprit continues.
 

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