Fuel pump replacement interval?

[the_welfare_wagon]

So I’m nearing 380k and 26 years on what I presume is the original fuel pump. Not trying to jinx it but I’ve had no issues with it. I do however have a spare Denso pump that I picked up a year or so ago and I carry it around just in case.

Is there an interval in which I should just replace the fuel pump? I’ve heard of people doing it proactively then the new one they installed shits the bed a few months later.

Is this something better left alone till it fails? I have a 2k mile trip coming up in June and want to get any maintenance that would need doing done before then


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[RandyBobandy]

Mine failed around 200k, keep in mind replacing the pump on these involves dropping the tank it’s not like some cars where you can access it through the hole under the rear seat so it would be pretty hard to do a roadside repair

 

[Twisted Sid]

I changed mine out just after the 400k mark and it was the original. It wasn't doing anything to suggest it was dieing but I didn't want to be stuck somewhere and i was going on a road trip also. It wasnt a difficult job, just run it low on gas so your not wrestling a heavy tank and do the filter at the same time

 

[the_welfare_wagon]

Mine failed around 200k, keep in mind replacing the pump on these involves dropping the tank it’s not like some cars where you can access it through the hole under the rear seat so it would be pretty hard to do a roadside repair

Might seem like the lazy and dumb way out but I’d just planned on cutting a hole in the floor and doing it that way. Didn’t want to have to wrestle with potentially snapping bolts.

What symptoms did yours give that indicates the fuel pump failed? Just didn’t start up or were there any symptoms leading up to the failure?


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[the_welfare_wagon]

I changed mine out just after the 400k mark and it was the original. It wasn't doing anything to suggest it was dieing but I didn't want to be stuck somewhere and i was going on a road trip also. It wasnt a difficult job, just run it low on gas so your not wrestling a heavy tank and do the filter at the same time

How difficult was dropping the tank? I had planned on cutting the floor like I said in my other reply. I just don’t want to deal with almost 30 year old bolts snapping and the headache that comes with that


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[RandyBobandy]

Mine just suddenly failed, drove fine the night before and wouldn’t start the next morning, I’ve had other pumps fail that showed signs of failure before, mainly low fuel pressure and associated symptoms once warm.

I dropped the tank on my rusty PA rig in 6” of snow, considered cutting the floor but determined there was no way to do it without seriously hacking up the body, dropping the tank isn’t very hard, I’ve done some where the whole rear subframe had to come out first. You’ll want a new strap if you live in a rust prone area as they get pretty thin

 

[brillo_76]

You are actually going to cut the floor out to change the fuel pump? I guess that's one way of doing it?


Do you realize that if your bolts straps etc are really rusty your tank is probably about rotted through?


Start soaking the bolts and put them through heat cycles to get the rust bound broken. If you're lucky you get them put and just replace them along with the strap.

The filler tube if rusty is probably done but really depends on the rust level.


I dropped 3 3td gen tanks already. As I rather know my tank and pump is good then get stranded somewhere. :/ But that's just me.

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[the_welfare_wagon]

You are actually going to cut the floor out to change the fuel pump? I guess that's one way of doing it?


Do you realize that if your bolts straps etc are really rusty your tank is probably about rotted through?


Start soaking the bolts and put them through heat cycles to get the rust bound broken. If you're lucky you get them put and just replace them along with the strap.

The filler tube if rusty is probably done but really depends on the rust level.


I dropped 3 3td gen tanks already. As I rather know my tank and pump is good then get stranded somewhere. :/ But that's just me.

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No my vehicle has no rust on it whatsoever. Frame is totally painted inside and out. I used to have a late 90s ford exploder and it was rusted pretty bad. To change the fuel pump in that you have to drop the tank but after a few bolts snapped I just cut a hole in the floor and swapped the pump in about 20 mins then seam sealed it back up. Like I said it’s the dumb and lazy way but if dropping the tank isn’t bad then I’ll try that way. I had to cut the cam bolts out of my LCA and I just figured these bolts would probably be the same way. Old habits die hard I guess


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[Twisted Sid]

I live in the desert and my 4runner is not rusty so dropping the tank didn't take long at all. The hardest part was reaching up and disconnecting the fuel line and not getting a face/armpit full of gas.

Even if its rust free, I'd crawl under there and spray all the bolts with your penetrating fluid of choice a day or 2 before and at least give it a try before cutting into the body.

 

[picantesauce]

I would just change it if you have the time to do it. Mine crapped out on the hwy on my way back after a wheeling trip (380k km). It stuttered a few times and then suddenly the engine just died. I was lucky it didn't happen when I was way out in the back country. I had it towed home so I could do the job in my driveway.

I would suggest dropping the tank. The steel lines connected to the top of the tank would be a pain in the ass to work with without dropping it.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Get new gaskets also. Those two seals and the rust under them cause the dreaded EVAP leak code. The one bigger vent line is a bugger on top of the tank.

Watch who you source your pump from quite a few here had new pumps fail within a year of instal.

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[brillo_76]

No my vehicle has no rust on it whatsoever. Frame is totally painted inside and out. I used to have a late 90s ford exploder and it was rusted pretty bad. To change the fuel pump in that you have to drop the tank but after a few bolts snapped I just cut a hole in the floor and swapped the pump in about 20 mins then seam sealed it back up. Like I said it’s the dumb and lazy way but if dropping the tank isn’t bad then I’ll try that way. I had to cut the cam bolts out of my LCA and I just figured these bolts would probably be the same way. Old habits die hard I guess


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If that's the case, everything will come right apart...

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[the_welfare_wagon]

I would just change it if you have the time to do it. Mine crapped out on the hwy on my way back after a wheeling trip (380k km). It stuttered a few times and then suddenly the engine just died. I was lucky it didn't happen when I was way out in the back country. I had it towed home so I could do the job in my driveway.

I would suggest dropping the tank. The steel lines connected to the top of the tank would be a pain in the ass to work with without dropping it.

Did yours do anything prior to the stuttering that I should look out for or was it just working fine one second then stutter and dead the next?


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[Rushthezeppelin]

Not sure how you would cut the hole bigger with the tank in place (there is a hole already there but it's too small to change to pump). If you can figure out a way you can always drop the tank and while it's dropped you can cut the hole bigger so that you can change the pump more easily in the future.

 

[brillo_76]

Not sure how you would cut the hole bigger with the tank in place (there is a hole already there but it's too small to change to pump). If you can figure out a way you can always drop the tank and while it's dropped you can cut the hole bigger so that you can change the pump more easily in the future.

With no rust issues. Everything would just come right apart. Those line run the length of the tank with other evap hoses. good way to destroy lines and a tank trying to cut a hole big enough to change the fuel pump. Not to mention the angels of the sending unit to remove it out of the tank...:/

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[Rushthezeppelin]

With no rust issues. Everything would just come right apart. Those line run the length of the tank with other evap hoses. good way to destroy lines and a tank trying to cut a hole big enough to change the fuel pump. Not to mention the angels of the sending unit to remove it out of the tank...:/

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Hmm, pretty sure I've heard of other people cutting that hole bigger. Granted I haven't heard any reports of them coming back to replace the fuel pump after that yet.

 

[brillo_76]

Hmm, pretty sure I've heard of other people cutting that hole bigger. Granted I haven't heard any reports of them coming back to replace the fuel pump after that yet.

Could be.. Their rig. I know I wouldn't bother and I even live in the rust belt. I still carefully drop the tank to fix issues...

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[picantesauce]

Did yours do anything prior to the stuttering that I should look out for or was it just working fine one second then stutter and dead the next?


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It totally caught me by surprise. Stuttered once when going up a hill and again 5mins later when it finally died. No other signs leading up to it. It's the kind of thing that will leave you stranded if it goes. Well worth it to change it for the peace of mind

 

[FD7683]

Old bump sorry guys but I want to share my experience. My truck started to run awful and parked it on the street. I diagnosed it when it ran it ran HORRIBLE it was idiling under 200 RPM and wanted to die. Couple more cranks later and no start, stone dead. It would crank all day so went right to diagnosing. Spark verified, fuses/relays checked even the COR. Checked power to fuel pump connector got 11.3v (drained battery from cranking) so knew something was wrong with the pump. Later checked ohms resistance and repair manual shows it failed so it ended up being the fuel pump. I got under the truck and hit the tank with a mallet and it did start but died later.

I replaced the fuel pump, sending bracket and the gasket everything went smooth because I had an induction heater I highly recommend everyone to have one in the rustbelt I did not break a single bolt and they all looked rough. Wish I bought a strap though I did find it broke...

 

[brillo_76]

Old bump sorry guys but I want to share my experience. My truck started to run awful and parked it on the street. I diagnosed it when it ran it ran HORRIBLE it was idiling under 200 RPM and wanted to die. Couple more cranks later and no start, stone dead. It would crank all day so went right to diagnosing. Spark verified, fuses/relays checked even the COR. Checked power to fuel pump connector got 11.3v (drained battery from cranking) so knew something was wrong with the pump. Later checked ohms resistance and repair manual shows it failed so it ended up being the fuel pump. I got under the truck and hit the tank with a mallet and it did start but died later.

I replaced the fuel pump, sending bracket and the gasket everything went smooth because I had an induction heater I highly recommend everyone to have one in the rustbelt I did not break a single bolt and they all looked rough. Wish I bought a strap though I did find it broke...

Straps always rotted. Yes the induction heater with wax is a very good investment.