LittleCaesar
New member
Good luck with it.
Like others have said, it may be bad from its origin, and just never got returned to get repaired.
Like others have said, it may be bad from its origin, and just never got returned to get repaired.
after the cv axle install...
- Thread starter 4runnerlee
- Start date
cordrayj1
New member
i dont think it looks all that weird.thats just me.
the clover/round design really kinda depends on who remans or makes them from what i have experienced.
and there is plenty of a lip to knock that thing in the diff.
if it aint leaking it means the dust shield has contact with the seal. which would tell me its seated properly unless the slined shaft is not the correct length.
the clover/round design really kinda depends on who remans or makes them from what i have experienced.
and there is plenty of a lip to knock that thing in the diff.
if it aint leaking it means the dust shield has contact with the seal. which would tell me its seated properly unless the slined shaft is not the correct length.
4runnerlee
New member
ok so i just tried to pull out the cv axle and its in there good, from what im looking at i think the end shaft was just a bit longer then the oem ones. So with that i didnt bother to take it out, but on the other hand i knocked loose the dust ring thing, is that going to be a problem??
and the play in and out is about 2mm and i can still wiggle it up and down but just barley. so i just might leave it alone and if it brakes down on me, then ill just get a new one with the lifetime warr.
and the play in and out is about 2mm and i can still wiggle it up and down but just barley. so i just might leave it alone and if it brakes down on me, then ill just get a new one with the lifetime warr.
cordrayj1
New member
Make sure dust seal is seated correctly. It won't fall off obviously, but it does serve a purpose. Try to make sure it is true and not bent as well (since it came off and you had to knock it back in place)
I feel that its important to have the dust shield in the correct place because you don't want too much pressure on the seal. But at the same time, too little will make it leak. If it ain't leaking I prov wouldn't screw w it. There's no drive on it anyways unless you're in 4wd.
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I feel that its important to have the dust shield in the correct place because you don't want too much pressure on the seal. But at the same time, too little will make it leak. If it ain't leaking I prov wouldn't screw w it. There's no drive on it anyways unless you're in 4wd.
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4runnerlee
New member
another thing is the clicking noise starts when i put it into drive so could that be the cv axle too or something else?
4runnerlee
New member
It's as soon as I put it in drive, the clicking comes and when moving its a little bit more noticeable but yeah, it starts clicking as soon as its in drive stopped or moving.
Gerdo
New member
Definitely has nothing to do with your CVs.
Try, while moving/rolling/making the sound, slip the trany into neutral and see if it still makes the sound.
4runnerlee
New member
LOL.. yes i was going to do that too but u beat me to it.
ok an update on the cv is that after messing around with it (now the dust cover is loose and ill try to pop that in place later) the hub is still not leaking so i think that it will be ok. after listening to the clicking noise i dont think it is the cv axle like most of you are saying, but it might be that i just need to adjust the valves but not too sure since i just got the 4r a couple of weeks ago. i will post up sound chip here in a bit if i can get record the clicking.
4runnerlee
New member
:jaw drop: ok this is weird, i went outside to take a video of the clicking noise and behold it's not doing it anymore. but i will take a video of it when it is clicking again so everyone will hear and see what im talking about 
4runnerlee
New member
ok so i still couldn't get a video or sound clip of the clicking/ticking noise yet, but i've been busy. so i went head and pulled the new cv axle out and put back the oem one back on. i still haven't got the inner grease and i did a search and all, but all i came up with was some grease called hp 90 cv grease and i look all over town but nothing. so i guess ill just replace it again when the boot goes bad or something bad happens to it. reason for me taking out the new cv axle was, i took it out on the freeway and there was a slight vibration coming from the 4r. No it wasn't the wheels, tires are brand new nitto and the 4r was not vibrating before the cv axle change. Now i haven't took the rig out on the freeway yet but if the vibration is still there then i guess i must of messed something up in the process of changing the axles.
As for the clicking/ticking sound i think it might have something to do with my front diff low on fluids, since the axle was removed like 3 times. any thoughts?? i was going to do a fluid change too just to see if the noise would go away, if it does then im a happy camper, if not then i guess ill be pooring more money into the rig. The clicking/ticking sound was never there until i after the cv axle change too, any input from y'all would be great....Thanks again guys :hatsoff:
As for the clicking/ticking sound i think it might have something to do with my front diff low on fluids, since the axle was removed like 3 times. any thoughts?? i was going to do a fluid change too just to see if the noise would go away, if it does then im a happy camper, if not then i guess ill be pooring more money into the rig. The clicking/ticking sound was never there until i after the cv axle change too, any input from y'all would be great....Thanks again guys :hatsoff:
LittleCaesar
New member
Pull the fill plug, and uh, see if any weeps out. If not, grab your diff oil and fill.
I'd take back the CV to Oreilys and just ask for another one at this point.
I'd take back the CV to Oreilys and just ask for another one at this point.
So...Are you saying you haven't taken it onto the freeway until this time and then you found out there was a vibration? Or have you not taken it onto a highway at all yet? Just because you have new tires doesn't mean they wont vibrate. If they are out of balance you might only notice the vibration at certain speeds. I know this doesn't have anything to do with your other problem but i think this vibration might not be much of anything.
4runnerlee
New member
well i think i haven't taken it out on the freeway when i got the new tires(i wanted to put the lift kit on as soon as i can, in terms lead to the noise and me changing the cv axles) but the vibration was never there before the new tires and its not like the whole steering wheel is shaking or anything, its just that i can feel it vibrate when hitting 60+. Its a small vibration and since i haven't got an alignment done as well, so i drop off the 4r to get the alignment done and hopefully it goes away if not ill rebalance the wheels and see. and yes the vibration is still there after i put the oem one back on.
so far with the new cv=vibration at 60+ and old cv=vibration at 60+ and before the new tires no vibration at all.
and still have to do the drain and fill for the front diff. to see if the clicking noise goes away.
so far with the new cv=vibration at 60+ and old cv=vibration at 60+ and before the new tires no vibration at all.
and still have to do the drain and fill for the front diff. to see if the clicking noise goes away.
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4runnerlee
New member
Alright got the rig back from the shop and it turns out that my rear brakes were shot all to hell, maybe 1mm left on the shoes and they were in bad shape. So got them to do the whole brake job hoping that it will cure my vibration problem. Well...it didn't the vibration is still there but less noticeable. Now I'm thinking it might be that my front rotors are warped, still don't know the sign of warp rotor cuz it never happened to me before but I'll google it later. Like I said before u can feel the vibration all over the truck not the steering wheel, at this point I'm thinking it could be the axle, rotors, or the wheels themselves but at least I think it's down to those 3.
Your vibration and "squeaking" issue is more than likely a bad or binding Ujoint. Not your axle, wheels or rotors. I've seen them come into the shop before squeaking, while barely moving. It also didn't have any noticable play in while installed. Crawl under your driveshaft, and grab it near the Ujoint and push up and sideways with it. If u see any noticeable play in the ujoint, its bad.
Best way to tell if u have a binding/bad ujoint, is pull the driveshaft off. Then rotate the ujoint in all directions. Don't let any of the caps fall off either.
It should move each way smooth. If it binds, then replace it. They're pretty cheap and fairly easy to do. Just need a big hammer and a vise.
If its way worse driving in 4x4 on the highway, its more than likely the front driveshaft. If vibration is present all the time just in 2wd(highway speeds), probably will be your rear driveshaft.
Since we started salting the roads in MT, seems like during the winter we were replacing Ujoints almost daily. Toyota's rarely do need ujoints compared the others.
Best way to tell if u have a binding/bad ujoint, is pull the driveshaft off. Then rotate the ujoint in all directions. Don't let any of the caps fall off either.
It should move each way smooth. If it binds, then replace it. They're pretty cheap and fairly easy to do. Just need a big hammer and a vise.
If its way worse driving in 4x4 on the highway, its more than likely the front driveshaft. If vibration is present all the time just in 2wd(highway speeds), probably will be your rear driveshaft.
Since we started salting the roads in MT, seems like during the winter we were replacing Ujoints almost daily. Toyota's rarely do need ujoints compared the others.
4runnerlee
New member
Thanks BIGSKY I will check up on that, it might be a while before I can check it due to the holidays but I will as soon as I can.
