Aftermarket hitch installation issues on 4th gen (2008)

[zguy1]

I just received my Curt hitch (#13445) for my 2008. I have a base model which has no factory hitch but it does have one tow hook installed on the driver's side. I sprayed some penetrating oil on the two screws holding the tow hook on before attempting to removed them. Once I attempted to remove one, the inside nut that is attached to the frame broke loose and is now spinning.

Any suggestions on how to proceed?
If this issue can't be resolved on my own, any suggestions on where to bring it?

thanks!

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[eleven14]

I just received my Curt hitch (#13445) for my 2008. I have a base model which has no factory hitch but it does have one tow hook installed on the driver's side. I sprayed some penetrating oil on the two screws holding the tow hook on before attempting to removed them. Once I attempted to remove one, the inside nut that is attached to the frame broke loose and is now spinning.

Any suggestions on how to proceed?
If this issue can't be resolved on my own, any suggestions on where to bring it?

thanks!

Might help if you post pics of the situation.

But seems like you'll have to access the nut with the broken weld on the inside of the frame somehow to get the tow hook off or break out the sawzaw/etc. to cut it off from the outside.

 

[zguy1]

Might help if you post pics of the situation.

But seems like you'll have to access the nut with the broken weld on the inside of the frame somehow to get the tow hook off or break out the sawzaw/etc. to cut it off from the outside.

I added an image to the original post. I don't believe I have access to the nut as it is inside the frame itself. Assuming I can cut it off somehow, hopefully I can get the bolt next to it off without the same thing happening.

 

[Bossman]

Tow hook removal question

Rear tow hook

 

[zguy1]

Tow hook removal question

Rear tow hook

Thanks, that helps. I was able to get the other remaining bolt off. Now I just need to figure out the easiest way for me to cut the remaining bolt off. I'm sure that bolt is super tough to cut. All I have is a sawzall and a RotoZip. I do have a steel cutoff wheel for the RotoZip.

Any suggestions on how to actually cut it? I'm a decent mechanic but have very little experience with cutting steel of this thickness.

I almost tempted to leave one that one bolt out for the installation once removed. I looked at those RivNuts and they don't look they will have sizes that will work or the strength needed.

 

[AuSeeker]

I would use a big cold chisel and drive it between the tow hook and the frame to create any gap you can get and then use the sawall in the gap to cut the bolt, you will need a good bi-metal blade, once you get the bolt cut halfway or more then drive chisel further as hard as you can towards and into the cut portion, if you're lucky the bolt will break the rest of the way, if it doesn't cut the bolt a bit more and rinse and repeat until it breaks.

Just try your best not to let the blade angle to much toward the frame, you don't want to cut deep into the frame, a few scratches won't hurt it but deep cuts is not the best, be sure to treat/paint any raw metal on the frame before installing the tow hitch.

Many times when cutting with a sawall on a loose bolt, the bolt will try and spin on you making the cutting progress very slow, if this starts happening, you can use a wrench, socket or visegrips to help hold the bolt from spinning, hopefully though by driving the chisel in tightly it will create enough pressure to keep the bolt from spinning, good luck!

 

[zguy1]

I would use a big cold chisel and drive it between the tow hook and the frame to create any gap you can get and then use the sawall in the gap to cut the bolt, you will need a good bi-metal blade, once you get the bolt cut halfway or more then drive chisel further as hard as you can towards and into the cut portion, if you're lucky the bolt will break the rest of the way, if it doesn't cut the bolt a bit more and rinse and repeat until it breaks.

Just try your best not to let the blade angle to much toward the frame, you don't want to cut deep into the frame, a few scratches won't hurt it but deep cuts is not the best, be sure to treat/paint any raw metal on the frame before installing the tow hitch.

Many times when cutting with a sawall on a loose bolt, the bolt will try and spin on you making the cutting progress very slow, if this starts happening, you can use a wrench, socket or visegrips to help hold the bolt from spinning, hopefully though by driving the chisel in tightly it will create enough pressure to keep the bolt from spinning, good luck!

Thanks for the information. I ended trying my RotoZip with a steel cutoff wheel and it worked. It took a long time but I barely marked up the tow hook and never was near the frame. Who would thought that tool would come in handy one of these days lol.

Now I’m down to mounting the hitch and have two things to deal with.

First, do I try and fish out the broken bolt with some type of magnet contraption or just leave it hanging by the hole? See pic below.

And lastly, I can’t easily thread the new bolts in the other holes that have been open to the elements. I did spray them with penetrating oil and used some compressed air but the new bolts don’t want to go in. I don’t want to strip them considering how far I have come. Shall I consider buying some sort of a cleaning tap?

 

[MikeinNH67]

You always want to run a tap through any threaded holes that have been out to the elements. Take the good bolt you removed to almost any hardware store and get the proper metric tap to chase the threads. They are cheap and you can just clip some vice-grips on the square end as this won't take much effort just make sure you start it by hand so it's straight.

As for the cutoff one, if you can weasel it out with a magnetic probe then maybe you can drop a longer bolt back in it's place. One long enough that you can hold it in place from the bottom while you put a nut on it then just cut off the excess. Usually new hardware will tighten up easily without needing to put a wrench on the side inside the frame especially if you can put vice-grips on the protruding end.

 

[zguy1]

You always want to run a tap through any threaded holes that have been out to the elements. Take the good bolt you removed to almost any hardware store and get the proper metric tap to chase the threads. They are cheap and you can just clip some vice-grips on the square end as this won't take much effort just make sure you start it by hand so it's straight.

As for the cutoff one, if you can weasel it out with a magnetic probe then maybe you can drop a longer bolt back in it's place. One long enough that you can hold it in place from the bottom while you put a nut on it then just cut off the excess. Usually new hardware will tighten up easily without needing to put a wrench on the side inside the frame especially if you can put vice-grips on the protruding end.

Thanks Mike for the idea about getting longer bolts. I ordered some longer M12 bolts plus some fish coil made by Curts to fish the bolts through. I will try to pull the bolt with a magnetic probe but I'm not sure if it will work since the frame itself is steel. I don't know how well the magnet will slide if at all.

Stay tuned... :cheers:

 

[MikeinNH67]

Thanks Mike for the idea about getting longer bolts. I ordered some longer M12 bolts plus some fish coil made by Curts to fish the bolts through. I will try to pull the bolt with a magnetic probe but I'm not sure if it will work since the frame itself is steel. I don't know how well the magnet will slide if at all.

Stay tuned... :cheers:

Another way folks do it is to tack weld a piece of thick steel wire to the bolt head so you can fish it in, you lose most of the wire of course. Could possibly do something similar with some JB weld. Just needs to be strong enough to get it in there. Good luck.

 

[zguy1]

Another way folks do it is to tack weld a piece of thick steel wire to the bolt head so you can fish it in, you lose most of the wire of course. Could possibly do something similar with some JB weld. Just needs to be strong enough to get it in there. Good luck.

A quick update. Still waiting on the longer bolts and fish wire but I did attempt to clean out the remaining threads with a thread chaser yesterday. I was able to do the 4 smaller M8 ones successfully but ran into issues with the larger M12 ones. I was able to run the chaser through the hole next to the one that broke without an issue. I'm not surprised since I was able to remove the original bolt from there. The problem started when I attempted to do one of those on the passenger side. I got the chaser midway through on the first one I attempted but then the bolt in the frame broke loose. I had to cut the chaser off. Now I have two broken studs hanging from both sides of the frame. It's clear that the remaining bolt can not be trusted to be used.

I also rented the thread restorer kit from a local auto parts store as opposed to buying the chasers. Go figure... :dammit:

 

[AuSeeker]

A quick update. Still waiting on the longer bolts and fish wire but I did attempt to clean out the remaining threads with a thread chaser yesterday. I was able to do the 4 smaller M8 ones successfully but ran into issues with the larger M12 ones. I was able to run the chaser through the hole next to the one that broke without an issue. I'm not surprised since I was able to remove the original bolt from there. The problem started when I attempted to do one of those on the passenger side. I got the chaser midway through on the first one I attempted but then the bolt in the frame broke loose. I had to cut the chaser off. Now I have two broken studs hanging from both sides of the frame. It's clear that the remaining bolt can not be trusted to be used.

I also rented the thread restorer kit from a local auto parts store as opposed to buying the chasers. Go figure... :dammit:

Just to be sure the tap was used correctly to try and clean the threads....did you just try and run it in or in little steps and reversing the tap in between each forward step?

The proper way to tap new threads and or clean up threads is to first used "cutting oil" on the tap and hole and then turn the tap in about 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn and then reverse the tap at least 1/4 of a turn to clean out any metal shavings and or rust/debris, otherwise the tap will get clogged up and can possibly either get stuck or break.

 

[MikeinNH67]

Just to be sure the tap was used correctly to try and clean the threads....did you just try and run it in or in little steps and reversing the tap in between each forward step?

The proper way to tap new threads and or clean up threads is to first used "cutting oil" on the tap and hole and then turn the tap in about 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn and then reverse the tap at least 1/4 of a turn to clean out any metal shavings and or rust/debris, otherwise the tap will get clogged up and can possibly either get stuck or break.

Exactly, the reverse not only cleans the stuff out it also breaks the burr so it will not bind up so badly. There's 4 flutes on a tap, not sure what the scoop is with the borrowed tool. I've never had an issue like this with a real tap and plenty of lube but maybe there just wasn't much holding the tacked on nut because of corrosion.

 

[zguy1]

Exactly, the reverse not only cleans the stuff out it also breaks the burr so it will not bind up so badly. There's 4 flutes on a tap, not sure what the scoop is with the borrowed tool. I've never had an issue like this with a real tap and plenty of lube but maybe there just wasn't much holding the tacked on nut because of corrosion.

I used a chaser instead of a tap. I read somewhere that the chaser is preferred to the tap to avoid removing excess material. I'm guessing the welds weren't that strong as it was the same bolt directly opposite the drivers side that broke.

I did receive a magnetic probe today and after some trial and error I was able to get both bolts out. Now I am at a crossroads. I have one more M12 nut that I did not try to clean up yet. I also got another chaser but I am leery to try it as I really don't want to get that one stuck too only to have to cut it off again.

My instincts tell me to break the two remaining M12 nuts welded to the frame before trying to clean or install the hitch. If 2 broke already, how strong can the last two be.

 

[GupsT4R]

im gonna say chase the other two. With A Tap, Cutting oil and 1/4 turn in and 1/4 back at a time. Even when you start to get a little resistance retract the tap, clean the flute, re-lube and continue

Yes, normally ill use a tread chaser if the threaded hole is damaged and i need to repair it by re-forming the threads, especially if its a blind hole.

In this case your dealing with a rusted holes. So a Tap will remove all that oxidized rust and steel built up on the threads making the proper clearance for your new bolts.

 

[zguy1]

im gonna say chase the other two. With A Tap, Cutting oil and 1/4 turn in and 1/4 back at a time. Even when you start to get a little resistance retract the tap, clean the flute, re-lube and continue

Yes, normally ill use a tread chaser if the threaded hole is damaged and i need to repair it by re-forming the threads, especially if its a blind hole.

In this case your dealing with a rusted holes. So a Tap will remove all that oxidized rust and steel built up on the threads making the proper clearance for your new bolts.

Thanks for the post. Well I ended up trying to use the chaser on the remaining M12 nut after-all. I tried going a little at a time and then backing the chaser out before restarting. I was able to run it through cleanly here. At this point all frame mounting points for the hitch are ready. The two longer M12 bolts have arrived and I plan on fishing those through the frame and putting the nuts on the outside.

Btw, I went to remove the bracket that holds the hitch brake light harness and one of the bolts broke off. She refuses to make things easy for me...:gun6:

Anyway, I believe the bracket gets relocated anyhow. Just need to figure out where. Tomorrow I will attempt to install the hitch.

 

[GupsT4R]

Thanks for the post. Well I ended up trying to use the chaser on the remaining M12 nut after-all. I tried going a little at a time and then backing the chaser out before restarting. I was able to run it through cleanly here. At this point all frame mounting points for the hitch are ready. The two longer M12 bolts have arrived and I plan on fishing those through the frame and putting the nuts on the outside.

Btw, I went to remove the bracket that holds the hitch brake light harness and one of the bolts broke off. She refuses to make things easy for me...:gun6:

Anyway, I believe the bracket gets relocated anyhow. Just need to figure out where. Tomorrow I will attempt to install the hitch.

lol Murphy's Law Especially on a older rig with rust

Looking forward to seeing the hitch installed

Goodluck tmw

 

[MikeinNH67]

lol Murphy's Law Especially on a older rig with rust

Looking forward to seeing the hitch installed

Goodluck tmw

True enough, many times I just break them for the speed of moving forward.

As for the tap taking too much metal out, never had an issue with it.

 

[GupsT4R]

True enough, many times I just break them for the speed of moving forward.

As for the tap taking too much metal out, never had an issue with it.

yep, me either and good tap will always give the proper clearance regardless... not sure where ZGUY1 read that tidbit of info...material removal for a tap is solely dependent on initial hole diameter.

 

[zguy1]

yep, me either and good tap will always give the proper clearance regardless... not sure where ZGUY1 read that tidbit of info...material removal for a tap is solely dependent on initial hole diameter.

I read that from doing some google searches on using a tap vs a chaser to clean threads. If I had to do this again, I would give a tap a try considering individual taps appear to easier to come by than chasers. My initial hesitation was screwing up the hole by somehow putting the tap in crooked or something. Not sure if that is even possible to do when you are working with an existing threaded hole.