Ahhh, search fatigue ~ suspension options

[Brian.]

I feel like I'm running in circles here, going through the (seemingly) thousands of different options. Looking for someone to knock some sense into me....

So, budget of $1000 (ish, ok for 10% overage)
Stock T4R, going to stay stock (with regards to weight/bumpers/armor)
overwhelmingly highway/road use so looking for comfort there
Lift would be for cosmetic purposes, have a 99 that's sitting at 20.5" on all 4 corners now. I'd like some lift and a little rake though ~ spending the money regardless, why not get some 'feel good' change.

Seems like I have 3 main options that are well regarded. The first 2 are using Bils 5100 dampers and either OME springs all around, or TRD fronts and OME rears. Price runs from ~$700 for the OME/5100 to ~$900 for the TRD/OME/5100. Hitting my budget would be the Bils 6112 front and OME/5100 rear. Go with the OME/5160 rear Way blows the budget, but I'd do it if it were an outstanding choice.


I get stuck with OME/5100 due to the claimed harsh ride (I know, 100% perspective... this will be my wife's on-road driver, women tend to be a little more alert to and unimpressed by harsh rides), which puts the TRD/OME/5100 setup in the lead... I think.

Sounds like the 6112/5160's might actually be a good fit but all of the reviews I'm seeing focus on off-road performance. Most of the other options (Sonoran Steel, etc..) are too far outside my budget and impact the more important aspects like replacing unknown history LBJs, timing belt, water pump, etc...


I'm wondering if I'm over-thinking this (no sht Sherlock!), but part of my work history was as a high-performance suspension tech. I built, serviced and advised on adjustments for the AMA level motorcycle road-race level (and down to the average Joe) back about 20 years ago and that knowledge of performance haunts me. I'm certain that Anything will be better than the 1999 original, OEM parts that are installed. Even more-so when I couple this with parts and bushing replacement.

Anyway, get yer sticks here. The dead horse needs to be beaten again for some noob... :sorry:

 

[gamefreakgc]

I realize my opinion on suspension is different than most people on this forum so take that into consideration.

If your wife is like mine which does seem true, she's going to appreciate a softer ride. Any of the options you suggested will be stiffer and more harsh that just refreshing with OEM Toyota parts. I have a 98 that at 190k miles, had a completely blown suspension on it that rode terrible. I went with some OEM parts and some OEM-like aftermarket parts and by just replacing the worn out springs, gained over 1" of lift. For reference, 98 springs are only slightly shorter than 99 talls but still taller that 00-02 springs.

If you went OEM all around it would ride as plush as possible, gain back the lost lift from tired suspension parts and still have a positive rake. If you go with OME springs they are a bit stiffer (they are made to be) so your wife is going to feel those cracks in the road a bit more. Of course though OEM parts are not going to gain any serious lift, just restore it back to factory specs so not sure if that's exactly what you are looking for.

I will highly recommend changing out the sway bar bushings and end link bushings (or the end links themselves if no good). That helps tremendously with the body roll and gives a lot better steering response.

 

[MAST4R]

I agree with the above and I vote for all OEM given the parameters laid out in the post.

Both the OME and the 5100s have a reputation for anything from stiff to harsh. They have a purpose that is very different from what seems to be the case of this 4R.

Even on our Subaru Tribeca, replacing the OEM KYB struts after 145,000 miles with the "same" KYB aftermarket strut was a mistake. I should have paid the 25$ extra per strut for the OEM version because the aftermarket one of the same strut is stiffer.

 

[westdiablo]

If you want the front on something other than OEM...i used Bilstein 4600 shocks with stock springs. But...I used the 2wd 4600s instead of the 4wd part number.

Smooth ride.

Taller springs would lift it. But I didn't want it lifted.

Rear? Only solution to have it ride softer is taller springs (longer, not stiffer) and a heavy bumper.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bad Luck]

I'm in the same dilemma as you, but I'm still researching while I wait to hit the lotto lol! I'm debating between the tundra 5100's with tundra yy/yb springs, tundra 6112's, and ADS coilovers for the front. Pretty much decided on extended length 5100's with ome 891's for the rear. One thing to note is the spring rate for the spring that comes with 4runner 6112 is 550 lb/in which may be slightly stiff for no armor in the front. Tundra 6112 are 650 lb/in spring rate. Just something to consider if you decide to go 6112.

**Rickashay's OME vs. TRD Tundra/LC Review**
Tundra 6112 Bilstein On 3rd Gen. Info & Install
YouTube (Bilstein 5100 w/TRD Tundra springs Install video w/part numbers)

EDIT 2: Wheeler's lists the 4Runner 6112 spring rate as 600 lb/in

 

[Kyngfish]

I went with the OME 880/906 and 5100s all around. I think with the coil-overs all put together and shipping and whatever I was at 850 all in. I did the install for all four in an afternoon + ball joints. (Impact wrench!!).

Definitely drives like a truck, but it's not uncomfortable. There's only so much comfort you're going to get with a solid rear axle.

The added bonus is that the 906 is a little stiffer so when I drop a trailer on the back my ass isn't dragging on the ground.

 

[Brian.]

Hadn't done the parts pricing before, but 100% stock from Camelback lists out at 1000.64. I struggle to pay that price for an item I know, beyond a shadow of a doubt, was built to a specific price point/cost and standard that's now 20 years old. Again, that past professional experience kicking me in the head, telling me that's a waste of money.

I know, the tech hasn't really had much change since the 60's. But I think about things like... when were the parts manufactured? The oil in these has a "best by" date, even if they're sitting in a warehouse. I'm reasonably sure that a 6112 (shame about that spring rate, I thought I'd seen it was a 600 spring, but have just be grabbing info from any source and that number was probably for something different) has newer oil simply because they didn't start manufacturing them until a couple years back.

Excuses, I can come up with endless numbers of them apparently. As I sit and think about this, I see more value in a 6112/5100/OME setup for $1000 than for a complete OEM refresh for the same price. May not be true, but that's where my brain is stuck.

I need a reference point. Everyone will perceive things differently, but can talk about subjective change if they understand a common starting point. Best I can do at this instant is say that my wife's DD right now is a 2018 Mazda3 ~ a low and stiff car. Prior to that was a 2001 Jetta TDI with Koni Orange (slightly stiffer than stock, slightly less stiff than the Mazda) ~ all of those are WORLDS more stiff than the 4runner now. Given that our baseline with the truck hasn't been firmly established (about 500 miles driven, might make it to 1000 before I get to the shocks/springs), and she's used to a fairly firm/sporty ride......

dangit, there I go making excuses again. I just need to track down someone with some fresh 5100's so I can feel for myself. Anyone watching from south of Atlanta?

 

[gamefreakgc]

dangit, there I go making excuses again. I just need to track down someone with some fresh 5100's so I can feel for myself. Anyone watching from south of Atlanta?

I was going to suggest this. Putting aftermarket suspension parts on it pretty common so if you hit up the regional sections of this forum you might have someone with the desired setup (or something close) respond for a quick test drive. Then you can know for sure if that's what you want.

 

[phattyduck]

I struggle to pay that price for an item I know, beyond a shadow of a doubt, was built to a specific price point/cost and standard that's now 20 years old.

To put some perspective in here... the OEM shocks on my 4Runner (purchased new by my dad in '99) lasted over 200k miles just fine. The rear started leaking around that time (maybe 2010?). I replaced them with Bilstein 4600's for him with no complaints - and they lasted around 60k miles before the rear started leaking. They have since been replaced with 5100's under my ownership of the truck... Don't discount OEM for both quality/longevity and comfort.

That said - I would suggest you keep your OEM front springs, get OME 890's or 906's for the rear (or keep your stock springs with 1.5" spacers!) and (4Runner) 5100's all around. Lift the front with the snap ring settings. Your stock springs haven't sagged, so why replace them if you don't have to?

That'll get it all done for well under your budget (leaving room for new OEM lower ball joints!).

Smooth/comfortable ride will also be kept by avoiding LT tires...

-Charlie

 

[shawski]

suspension change out

I just completed a full suspension replacement this past weekend.
I'm happy to share the specs if you'd like to PM me.
Kept qwazi-stock heights.
$1,100 total.
Steve at Sonoran was a great resource.

PM me and I'll send photos and lift differences.