airlift 1000 questions

montanaT4R

New member
I have read all posts relating to the airlift 1000. According to the below video there is no need to disassemble the rear suspension. I have read where some folks did and some didn't. I realize the video is not a 4runner. I have read where the bump stops must be trimmed...what happens if you do not trim the bump stops? What is the purpose of trimming? I have ordered the kit it will be here on Wed...just want to make sure i know what i'm getting into.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aeDVcTNPQGs
 
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nevermind on the bumpstop question...just looked at them...they are waaaaaaaay bigger than i thought. DUH> Is the consensus that this kit can be installed w/out disassembly of suspension? I sure hope so. Not going to tackle that again after the debacle that was my attempt at installing the daystar kit up front.

thanks
 
montanaT4R said:
I have read all posts relating to the airlift 1000. 1)According to the below video there is no need to disassemble the rear suspension. I have read where some folks did and some didn't. I realize the video is not a 4runner. 2)I have read where the bump stops must be trimmed... 3)what happens if you do not trim the bump stops? What is the purpose of trimming? I have ordered the kit it will be here on Wed...just want to make sure i know what i'm getting into.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aeDVcTNPQGs



1) True. You can compress the bags and snake them into the coils. My recommendation is to jack the vehicle to full spring extension and remove the spare tire. It'll make it 100x easier.

2) True. I trimmed a little less than recommended by Airlift and have no regrets as I was able to use FJC rear springs and still have the Airlift work right, even with the slight spring lift.

3) If you don't trim at all the Airlift would pinch and fail IMHO. It's a soft rubber cone and cuts easily with a boxsaw, hacksaw whatever...

Another 2 tips as someone who has done 5 Airlift/Firestone installs over the years: 1) Run the airlines on the top of the axle tube to the top of the pumpkin then up to the frame. Make sure you have enough slack that if the vehicle is lifted on a lift (to change tires etc) the lines won't be tight. That will allow for travel/articulation without the need for miles of loose, floppy air hose. 2) Consider using separate air fills for the right and left bag. It'll handle better (less bodyroll) when loaded. If the goal is to rockcrawl loaded with gear and air in the bags then use one fill; it'll articulate better.

Good luck!:D


:cheers:
 
I agree with Chris 100%......I did it the exact same way.....to make it a little easier, i think, I would jack up the rear on the frame though, put jack stands down, jack up rear diff. then take off both rear wheels, then drop diff down with jack as low as it will go, this will give you the most working room....compress the air bags as much as u can and put cap back on then slide them through the coil, set up straight and unplug cap and you're ready to go.....
 
Question: I'm making a cross country move towing about 2,500lbs. Considering this exceeds the 1,000 rating for the air lift for the rear, should I even bother installing these? Is there any benefit? This will likely be the only time I have a need for them.
 
I wouldn't think twice about towing 2,500 lbs cross country with the stock suspension - with a 2,500 trailer/load, you should have roughly 250-400 lbs of tongue weight (weight on the hitch, rather than on the trailer tires). Now, if you're going to put a significant amount of weight in the cargo area as well, the air bags may be nice.

If you're only going to be using them once, I'd try to avoid them. Mine were great when I needed them, but now I wish I had the OEM stops (which are cut during installation) back, rather than having to deal with leaks and air pressure. OEM doesn't take any maintenance, the air lift does.
 
had airlift on 1 vec. before getting them on the 4r, finally got tired of the leaks & have been using the firestone bags for over 5 years & NO problems yet.
 
Has anyone ever had problems with the AL1000 air bags leaking? I had mine installed by a shop and initially they put the air line through the bottom but the line was pinched when I drove it off so when I brought it back after taking a look they said the line needed to be connected at the top to prevent pinching despite what the instructions said. So then my first time using them loaded (2 dirt bikes on the back) and pressurized to 35 psi they worked fine. Second time out with 40 psi (I know, 5 psi over limit) they leaked after about 3 hours of driving. They leaked where the line connects to the top of the air bag. Seems like the design is pretty marginal if they leaked because of 5 extra psi. I am kinda thinking it had to do with the connection or location of the line to the air bag.

Any feedback is appreciated.
 

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