toy4rner
New member
9 months later…………
Used 4runner = 4500
- 181,000 miles
- Funky interior
- Exterior in excellent shape
- Mechanically sound
- Undercarriage in good shape, hardware rusted (from up north, firkin salt)
I’m a medicine resident, so spare time is scarce, hence the 9 month
work in progress. I’d like to thank all the T4R members for their
posts. I could not have done it without this site.
1. New timing belt (water pump, crank/cam seals, idlers, tensioner,
thermostat, PCV valve, plugs, fuel filter, belts, and engine/radiator
coolant flush – Toyota LL Red) 400$
- not a bad job, took my time
- GREAT INVESTMENT – crank pulley holder (didn’t have the balls to
wedge a breaker bar on the frame and crank the engine to break the
pulley bolt loose) best 40$ ever spent. Makes tightening the bolt and
easy task
- TRICK: to remove the crank/cam seals: CAREFULLY drill a small hole
in the metal rim of the seal. Put a small drywall screw in the hole
and it’s easy to pry out…..no worries about damaging the seal surface
2. Cheap - o intake from ebay $40
- Even though it’s a 4x4, I don’t plan on fording any rivers soon.
- Came with heat shield
- MAF fits nice and tight. Sounds great
3. Cleaned MAF, intake plenum and manifold, and throttle body
- BIG MISTAKE – when cleaning the throttle body. REMOVE THE IDLE AIR
CONTROL VALVE. I did not and all the carbon ran right into the IAC
valve. I didn’t realize and after I got everything put back together,
it would only run at 1500 RPM’s after warming up. I thought about a vacuum leak,,,Ieven replaced the TB gasket with a URD gasket. (had the bright idea to trim the lip off the stock gasket, thought I bent it in the process)
the URD gasket doesn’t have the lip, but after a new UDR gasket…. still
run’n high. After a new IAC valve its run’n smooth. (I guess I could
have cleaned the valve, but at 85$, just got a new one)
4. New valve cover gaskets – no oil leaks before
- after removing everything the plenum to clean it, why not if it’s right there.
- especially on the Left bank.
5. Stillen exhaust –
- SWEET DEAL. $149 shipped to my door. Thanks to the forums
- only fit on the 2 cat 4runner. I looked under my truck while on the
phone ordering the exhaust and SCORE = 2 cats (figured I have a shop
weld a pipe at this price if it was a single cat)
- after 4 hours of drilling and chiseling, it was installed (damn cheap Japanese steel rusted to hell)
6. Brakes: new shoes, resurface drums, cross-drilled/slotted rotors, ceramic pads, steel braded lines and a flush n’ bleed
- would have upgraded to the 199 or 231, but didn’t know about the swap until after buying the parts. From what it seems, I’ll be doing it when these warp.
- FYI…… when bleeding don’t let the reservoir run dry…..rookie mistake.
- to adjust the rear, the brake spoon works good, or you can drive in reverse forever while jack’n the hand brake.
7. Flush tranny with new tranny filter
- I know I could have rinsed the filer. But after an hour of scraping FIPK, it was only 30 bucks for a new filter.
8. Fluid change in all diffs
- easy….. mobil 1 all the way
9. Electric radiator fan conversion (we'll see how this one turns out)
- great idea in theory, but after I got everything installed I was plagued by:
- picturing the first time the system was to fail….my wife would be driving and there goes the excuse to upgrade to a 1UZ.
- I mod’d the fan shroud to incorporate an electric fan. The clearance between the old fan mount on the belt spindle and the electric fan was about .5 on an inch. Seeing that the should is plastic. If anything were to “shift” game over.
- so 200$ out and an idea…. All it was. maybe a flexilite in the future
10. Bilstein HD's 240-$ on ebay
- the rear tokico’s were rusted. Ended up drilling holes in the rear deck from the inside to put a socket on the top mounts. Better than busted knuckles…….I covered the holed with a pieces of aluminum and liquid nailed them on to both sides.
- didn’t want to loose any fingers…….took the front coils to a local shop and the yahoo’s didn’t align the bottom mount on the strut correctly. Ended up buying a spring compressor and redoing it myself….not as hard as I imagined. if yo want something done right......yo know the rest
11. Interior- Molded Carpet 240$
- inside was pretty nasty
- tore everything down to the metal….cleaned and reinstalled…ahhhh like new
- resolve carpet cleaner cleans the headliner well
10. husky liners 200 for front, back and cargo
- fit better than expected, wanted the weathertech, but 300 was too much
- husky’s work/fit nice
11. Wet okole front seat covers 260$
- nice gotta love the ‘wet ass’
my only other bone is that not all the climate control buttons work
and the back light is also out. Got one on ebay for 220. how much is a new one........ 800$. Still have to replace the dash lights though
pics will come in a week or 2. I have exams
misc.
getting about 17-18 MPG driving like grandpa. gonna run some BG 44k with my next tank.
- if anyone needs duplicate keys. ebay sell the 4C transponder blanks (look like the genuine toyota key (shipped from china, so it's probably a knock off, but it works) for like 12 $ .....with programming instructions and the kind sir at home depot cut it for free.
:thumb3:
Used 4runner = 4500
- 181,000 miles
- Funky interior
- Exterior in excellent shape
- Mechanically sound
- Undercarriage in good shape, hardware rusted (from up north, firkin salt)
I’m a medicine resident, so spare time is scarce, hence the 9 month
work in progress. I’d like to thank all the T4R members for their
posts. I could not have done it without this site.
1. New timing belt (water pump, crank/cam seals, idlers, tensioner,
thermostat, PCV valve, plugs, fuel filter, belts, and engine/radiator
coolant flush – Toyota LL Red) 400$
- not a bad job, took my time
- GREAT INVESTMENT – crank pulley holder (didn’t have the balls to
wedge a breaker bar on the frame and crank the engine to break the
pulley bolt loose) best 40$ ever spent. Makes tightening the bolt and
easy task
- TRICK: to remove the crank/cam seals: CAREFULLY drill a small hole
in the metal rim of the seal. Put a small drywall screw in the hole
and it’s easy to pry out…..no worries about damaging the seal surface
2. Cheap - o intake from ebay $40
- Even though it’s a 4x4, I don’t plan on fording any rivers soon.
- Came with heat shield
- MAF fits nice and tight. Sounds great
3. Cleaned MAF, intake plenum and manifold, and throttle body
- BIG MISTAKE – when cleaning the throttle body. REMOVE THE IDLE AIR
CONTROL VALVE. I did not and all the carbon ran right into the IAC
valve. I didn’t realize and after I got everything put back together,
it would only run at 1500 RPM’s after warming up. I thought about a vacuum leak,,,Ieven replaced the TB gasket with a URD gasket. (had the bright idea to trim the lip off the stock gasket, thought I bent it in the process)
the URD gasket doesn’t have the lip, but after a new UDR gasket…. still
run’n high. After a new IAC valve its run’n smooth. (I guess I could
have cleaned the valve, but at 85$, just got a new one)
4. New valve cover gaskets – no oil leaks before
- after removing everything the plenum to clean it, why not if it’s right there.
- especially on the Left bank.
5. Stillen exhaust –
- SWEET DEAL. $149 shipped to my door. Thanks to the forums
- only fit on the 2 cat 4runner. I looked under my truck while on the
phone ordering the exhaust and SCORE = 2 cats (figured I have a shop
weld a pipe at this price if it was a single cat)
- after 4 hours of drilling and chiseling, it was installed (damn cheap Japanese steel rusted to hell)
6. Brakes: new shoes, resurface drums, cross-drilled/slotted rotors, ceramic pads, steel braded lines and a flush n’ bleed
- would have upgraded to the 199 or 231, but didn’t know about the swap until after buying the parts. From what it seems, I’ll be doing it when these warp.
- FYI…… when bleeding don’t let the reservoir run dry…..rookie mistake.
- to adjust the rear, the brake spoon works good, or you can drive in reverse forever while jack’n the hand brake.
7. Flush tranny with new tranny filter
- I know I could have rinsed the filer. But after an hour of scraping FIPK, it was only 30 bucks for a new filter.
8. Fluid change in all diffs
- easy….. mobil 1 all the way
9. Electric radiator fan conversion (we'll see how this one turns out)
- great idea in theory, but after I got everything installed I was plagued by:
- picturing the first time the system was to fail….my wife would be driving and there goes the excuse to upgrade to a 1UZ.
- I mod’d the fan shroud to incorporate an electric fan. The clearance between the old fan mount on the belt spindle and the electric fan was about .5 on an inch. Seeing that the should is plastic. If anything were to “shift” game over.
- so 200$ out and an idea…. All it was. maybe a flexilite in the future
10. Bilstein HD's 240-$ on ebay
- the rear tokico’s were rusted. Ended up drilling holes in the rear deck from the inside to put a socket on the top mounts. Better than busted knuckles…….I covered the holed with a pieces of aluminum and liquid nailed them on to both sides.
- didn’t want to loose any fingers…….took the front coils to a local shop and the yahoo’s didn’t align the bottom mount on the strut correctly. Ended up buying a spring compressor and redoing it myself….not as hard as I imagined. if yo want something done right......yo know the rest
11. Interior- Molded Carpet 240$
- inside was pretty nasty
- tore everything down to the metal….cleaned and reinstalled…ahhhh like new
- resolve carpet cleaner cleans the headliner well
10. husky liners 200 for front, back and cargo
- fit better than expected, wanted the weathertech, but 300 was too much
- husky’s work/fit nice
11. Wet okole front seat covers 260$
- nice gotta love the ‘wet ass’
my only other bone is that not all the climate control buttons work
and the back light is also out. Got one on ebay for 220. how much is a new one........ 800$. Still have to replace the dash lights though
pics will come in a week or 2. I have exams
misc.
getting about 17-18 MPG driving like grandpa. gonna run some BG 44k with my next tank.
- if anyone needs duplicate keys. ebay sell the 4C transponder blanks (look like the genuine toyota key (shipped from china, so it's probably a knock off, but it works) for like 12 $ .....with programming instructions and the kind sir at home depot cut it for free.
:thumb3:
