Alternator replace or repair

SkidPalace

Member
Hey guys,
Sitting here with a dead alternator (I assume). Battery just will not hold a charge and the battery light stays on the dash.
Has anyone replaced just the brushes on the stock alternator or just go ahead and replace it altogether?
Advice?
 
Register to hide this ad
You will want to verify it actually is the alternator by checking the voltage output AND current output in amps.

Pep Boys will do this for free or ~ $10.


I am seriously prepping to do the "big three upgrade" and replace the alternator because every year my battery dies.

I was able to score an alternator from a wreck yard (via EBAY) that had only 88k miles on it for $65 w/ free shipping.

A new one will cost you $240 - $300 depending on where you buy it.
 
Last edited:
Eh, the CS144 swap is a bit overrated unless you NEED the extra power. You can't use an oversize oil filter with it (not that big of a deal), it's harder to get the oil filter out in general, and the wiring harness has to be switched to the new GM plug.

If I was doing it again (not needing the bigger alt specifically) I would simply do what rickashay did...
After some power issues on the Whipsaw trail, it was time to replace the alternator. While I was at it, I did the battery. It didnt hurt that I got my battery for dealer cost!

Re-manufactured Toyota alternator. After thinking about doing the Chevy CS-144 Alternator, I decided to stay Toyota seeing as how the original lasted 13 years. I got my friend at the Toyota parts desk to look for something that puts out more than the standard 98 4Runner alternator's 60A at idle. The 99 4runners apparently came with one that puts out 80A at idle, so I ordered one of those.


20110727-IMG_9899 by RickaShay24, on Flickr
 
I would like to if I can pick up the parts locally tomorrow.
Didn't I read about a custom wire harness you need to order?


If you do decide to do the CS-144, when you buy the alternator from the parts store, just ask them for the GM style plug. They usually have them in stock. It's just the plug with a short pigtail on it. You'll have to cut your Toyota plug off and wire the GM plug onto the 4Runner wiring.
 
Eh, the CS144 swap is a bit overrated unless you NEED the extra power. You can't use an oversize oil filter with it (not that big of a deal), it's harder to get the oil filter out in general, and the wiring harness has to be switched to the new GM plug.

If I was doing it again (not needing the bigger alt specifically) I would simply do what rickashay did...

I think I will keep it simple and grab a remanufactured 80A alternator from Advance. $125 w/ $30 off $100, or $50 off $150.

I wish this thing quit on me last week when I had time to work on it. Hopefully the reman replacement will drop right in with no issues.
 
Probably a good choice. Reman alternators are usually a pretty solid bet...not a super complicated part to remanufacture.
 
Just snagged the 80A "Wolrdwide" alternator from Advance with a $50 off $150 coupon to bring the price down to ~$84 plus tax.
Can't complain.
I'll let you know how she drops in. Only a $25 core, so I may take it apart and see what the brushes look like. Might be able to flip the repaired alternator for a few bucks if that is all it needs. Has anyone successfully repaired an alternator doing just the brushes?
 
In case anyone is interested, the remanufactured alternator at Advance Auto, the "Worldwide" is a remanufactured Denso and it looks practically brand new. As expected the alternator dropped right in with no issues whatsoever. Fortunately for me I had no corrosion issues to deal with. Since I have an automatic belt tensioner for the supercharger, this was as brainless of an installation as you could imagine. I left the adjuster as it was and that was that.
I can certainly recommend the generic replacement from Advance. Especially for ~$85.



IMG_1488.jpg~original

IMG_1489.jpg~original
 
Bringing back an old thread.

My opinion is you should try to fix your OEM alternator because most likely any aftermarket or remanufactured one isn't going to work as well or last as long.

Many times, an alternator fails to deliver sufficient voltage due to worn brushes. [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I made a video showing how to remove the alternator, replace the brushes and reinstall the alternator. It's a pretty straightforward repair but getting the alternator back into the bracket and the bolt holes lined up so you can slide the pivot bolt back in is a little bit of a pain in the arse. We found a technique that eventually worked to get the bolt holes lined up and we share this technique in the video and the tools that helped.

Here's the video. Enjoy the show!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/71_kBhg6_-A" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Thanks for the video, I'll watch the whole thing after work. Just a tip, it sounds like you were using a Gopro in the housing which is why the sound has that buzz. You can get backs that have slots to allow sound in, or just cut slots in a solid back to get the same thing. If you are worried about stuff getting in there you can put a layer of duct tape over the slots.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the video, I'll watch the whole thing after work. Just a tip, it sounds like you were using a Gopro in the housing which is why the sound has that buzz. You can get backs that have slots to allow sound in, or just cut slots in a solid back to get the same thing. If you are worried about stuff getting in there you can put a layer of duct tape over the slots.

I don't know what buzz you're talking about. The GoPro housing we're using is the one with the slots cut out in the back. I'm just using my computer speakers so maybe the speakers you're using are more sensitive and picking up sound feedback I'm not able to hear.

Anyway, hope you find the video helpful.
 
How common is it for the regulator to fail? Also, when you take an alternator in for rebuild, do they replace the regulator in addition to the brushes/bearings? I noticed the regulator is actually quite an expensive part off RockAuto.
 
2000 4runner

My 2000 4runner still has the original alt. with just under 200,000 miles on it. Someone had a 2 year old 4Runner with a deal alternator. Either the new alternators are poor quality or there is something else wrong. It should last more than 2 years. Like i said, mine is 17 years old and still works fine.
 
My 2000 4runner still has the original alt. with just under 200,000 miles on it. Someone had a 2 year old 4Runner with a deal alternator. Either the new alternators are poor quality or there is something else wrong. It should last more than 2 years. Like i said, mine is 17 years old and still works fine.

When I replaced the brushes in my alternator at 140,000 miles, my brushes still had a decent amount of life left to them. But, with almost 200,000 miles, your brushes will be worn down a bit more.

Brand new, the brushes will stick out of the holder around 9.5mm. At 140,000 miles, mine had worn down to 5mm. The FSM says the minimum is 1.5mm of exposed brushes. Doing a little math, I estimate you currently have around 3mm exposed. And doing some more math, you lose around 1.5mm of brush material every 45,000 miles . So, when you start getting closer to 250,000 miles on your rig, it would be prudent to replace the brushes or run the risk of getting stuck somewhere. You might even start to notice before 250,000 miles that your alternator isn't charging as well slowly killing your battery. $20 and a little of your time is well worth not getting stuck somewhere, especially if you go off the beaten path with your rig.

I posted the video [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I did for replacing the brushes earlier in this thread.
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,306
Messages
3,554,045
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top