thezentree
Senior Member
Does anyone make aluminum skid plates? I need to add some armor but am really trying to avoid adding a bunch of weight.
Aluminum skid plates?
- Thread starter thezentree
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MidwestOverlanders
New member
Budbuilt 1996-2002 3rd Gen 4Runner 2 Piece Combo
Coastal Offroad 3rd Gen 4Runner Drivetrain Skid Plate Kit - Coastal Offroad
Coastal Offroad 3rd Gen 4Runner Drivetrain Skid Plate Kit - Coastal Offroad
thezentree
Senior Member
Probably 50+ pounds. By itself that’s not a lot, but adding a bunch of armor adds up quick. I’ve already got a CO front bumper and 4xI sliders. A full set of steel skids is another 150ish pounds.
All that said, those budbuilt aluminum skids are pricey....
phattyduck
Elite Member
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
That's entirely dependent on your spring rate.
Why spend more money on skids that are weaker?
Find or make some 1/8" steel skids with good gusseting on the backside, or use a combination of stock and aftermarket skids. Way cheaper.
phattyduck
Elite Member
Aluminum has a higher specific strength than steel - designed correctly it can be the same strength and lighter than steel. And it won't rust if damaged on on the trail.
All that said, I have steel skids.
:-Charlie
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Aluminum has a higher specific strength than steel - designed correctly it can be the same strength and lighter than steel. And it won't rust if damaged on on the trail.
All that said, I have steel skids.
-Charlie
It has a higher strength to weight ratio, but in this case it weighs less.
Doing the math, 5052 h32 Alum has a specific strength of 85, 1018 steel is 55.
Designed correctly I agree it can be as strong and lighter, but it would have to be like 3/8"-1/2" thick. 1/4" is hardly an increase from 3/16", aluminum is 35% stronger per weight but it's half the weight.
Even then, steel being much hard slides a lot easier so there are other mechanical properties in steel's favor.
theesotericone
New member
Aluminum has a higher specific strength than steel - designed correctly it can be the same strength and lighter than steel. And it won't rust if damaged on on the trail.
All that said, I have steel skids.
-Charlie
Then no one is designing it correctly. I don't know of one person with aluminum skids, that actually wheels, that hasn't bent them to hell. My Savage skids are 3/16th steel. I've barely managed to bend them after hundreds of miles of hard trails. If your just cruising fire roads aluminum will be fine. If you plan on playing in the rocks steel, and thick steel, is the way to go.
thezentree
Senior Member
Seems like I've only been able to get out in the woods a few times a year. Mine spends WAY more time commuting to work. I want big ass 1/4" steel skids but can't justify it for the same reasons I can't justify tons and 40s.
Maybe the answer is a set of steel skids that spend 95% of the time leaned up against the wall in the basement
eep:
Maybe the answer is a set of steel skids that spend 95% of the time leaned up against the wall in the basement
eep:
sleepydad
Senior Member
Seems like I've only been able to get out in the woods a few times a year. Mine spends WAY more time commuting to work. I want big ass 1/4" steel skids but can't justify it for the same reasons I can't justify tons and 40s.
Maybe the answer is a set of steel skids that spend 95% of the time leaned up against the wall in the basement
I have a full set of big arse steel skids. only run them once or twice a year. so yes they lean up on the wall most of the time.
but.. I would say it's nice to have them on and I have banged mine pretty hard a couple of times. I need to go out and find some nice thin poly or rubber washers to isolate the skids from the frame for next year. on my never ending to-do list.
RCI in colorado makes aluminum skids as well. It doesn't look like they list them on their site any more for 3rd gens but you might try calling and asking. Their prices are reasonable compared to bud-built.
fourfive
Senior Member
You're not alone. I've been looking into aluminum or 1/8 steel skids to keep weight down too. I like the idea of added strength 3/16 offers but wouldn't be the wisest choice for me since I know the conditions my 4runner will generally be exposed to. The weight savings of aluminum or 1/8 steel doesn't seem like much by itself but it all adds up quick especially with all the extra gear for trips. Similar to deciding on what tools to carry for roadside/trail repairs so you're not overloaded. I'm already making my 4runner work too hard with tires that are too big & stock gears. It's a balancing act for sure.
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
If you're not cutting weight on every single aspect of your vehicle, the 50-65lbs you save between aluminum and steel won't make a lick of difference in mpg. Not enough to make up the extra $500 you've spent.
If you can cut weight a little everywhere, lighter brakes, removed roof rack, exhaust, etc, then yeah it could actually add up, get the aluminum skids.
Somebody needs to make a set of 1/8" AR400 skids. Slides over rock easily, probably still cheaper than aluminum.
If you can cut weight a little everywhere, lighter brakes, removed roof rack, exhaust, etc, then yeah it could actually add up, get the aluminum skids.
Somebody needs to make a set of 1/8" AR400 skids. Slides over rock easily, probably still cheaper than aluminum.
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thezentree
Senior Member
I am trying to cut weight where I can, not for mpgs (lol lost cause) but for overall performance. I can tell a difference in the way it drives with a loaded cooler, camping gear, hi-lift, extra tools/spares, etc. It’s slower, the trans is hotter, and it takes longer to stop. 20lbs here, 40lbs there will go a good ways to help offset that.
FWIW, I contacted budbuilt about their skid weights. He said for full sets, the 3/16” steel is 111lbs, 1/8” is 78lbs, and 1/4” aluminum is 58lbs.
But yeah, stamped 1/8” AR400 skids would be tits.
Last time I went on RCI went they offered full set of skids in aluminum. But much more expensive then metal. It all depends what kind of odd tossing you do. If you are just a overlander who drives a lot on road, fire roads and not so much through rocks and other hard obstacles. Then aluminum would be a good choice considering it’s lighter and better for overlanding. But if you off road a lot and wheel the piss out of it. The. Go with steel.
tx_shooter
New member
Seems like I've only been able to get out in the woods a few times a year. Mine spends WAY more time commuting to work. I want big ass 1/4" steel skids but can't justify it for the same reasons I can't justify tons and 40s.
Maybe the answer is a set of steel skids that spend 95% of the time leaned up against the wall in the basement
I run an aluminum skid on my DD and only get a few chances to really danger them each year.
Aluminum or steel? The best way the question was proposed to me was this - when you come to a line where you may hit the skids do you pick a different line/ drive careful or give it some gas to scrape over it? If you picked a different line you are okay with aluminum. If you scraped over it you need to stick to steel.
My daily driver will stick to aluminum for the weight savings. My rock rig will stick to steel for the strength. Different scenarios require different specs.
