And so it begin!

[D Farms]

thats awesome dude! im pretty sure my sway bar bushings are worn as well, they started clicking a bit recently. anyways we should go wheeling sometime, my wheeling buddy actually just sold his 99 4runner so he could get an fj80. theres tons of good trails down in tuscon, and a couple in between phoenix and tucson as well.

 

[AZ3rdGenRunner]

TBU Done

Finally, I got around to doing the TBU with the Power Stop KC-2324-36 kit that I got from Summit Racing for $305 shipped. And lastly, I have gotten around to actually posting about it!

A couple of notes up front:

1. Apparently not all 4Runners are made equally! I watched a YouTube video where a guy made a bleeder tool that connects to an air compressor, however, it turns out that the brake fluid fill cap on my truck was a different size and therefor the build did not work!

2. Brake bleeder screws are not a standard size! Factory bleeders were 10mm, and the ones on the new calipers were 8mm (kind of a P.I.T.A.).

3. Getting 90 ft/lbs of torque while working in the wheel well on a non lifted truck was not fun for a guy that is 6' 2"!

Now on to some of the pictures!

First up are some of the side by side comparisons of the factory parts with the new parts!

And the finished product!

No complaints from me at all!!! And it was a fun project!

 

[tre9er]

Yeah I had been using 8mm wrench on the front bleeders then went to the rear and had to use a 10mm deep socket to crack it loose, then the 10mm wrench to open it enough to bleed. How's your pedal feel? I'd like mine a bit firmer, but I think my rear brakes are shot.

 

[AZ3rdGenRunner]

Braking

Yeah I had been using 8mm wrench on the front bleeders then went to the rear and had to use a 10mm deep socket to crack it loose, then the 10mm wrench to open it enough to bleed. How's your pedal feel? I'd like mine a bit firmer, but I think my rear brakes are shot.

After bleeding the brakes with a type of manifold that ran 10 psi of air off my compressor line through my brake system, starting with passenger rear, then driver rear, passenger front, driver front, and pretty much flushing the entire system with 64 oz of Lucas full synthetic DOT 3 ($13.00 at AutoZone), my brakes feel GREAT!

Set up quart size mason jars with 2' of 3/16" clear tubing on each wheel, open the air line to 15 psi, then go from one wheel to another bleeding the lines, constantly replacing the fluid. Worked great!

Then of course there is the break in process for the new pads and rotors to prevent stress fractures and damage to the pads. This process is getting up to 45 mph then hitting the brakes hard (not locking them up or activating the ABS), slowing to 5-ish mph, let off brakes, keep rolling and speed back up to 45 mph 5 times. Then do the same thing from 35 mph to 5 mph 5 times. Then do the same thing from 25 mph to 5 mph 5 times. Never allowing the rotors to cool. These are steps directly from the manufacturer even though the instructions in the kit says to let the rotors cool during the 35 and 25 mph stops. Doing this will cause material from the pads (resin) to transfer to the hot rotors and create a layer that will help with friction with the pads, and a smoothness that will prevent vibrations during braking. This process is EXTREMELY important because failure to do it correctly could cause pad material to stick to the rotor causing a "lump", or cause heat build up in small areas that could result in stress fractures!

 

[tre9er]

I had bed mine in accordingly. I think my pedal-feel issue is due to the rears being in need of replacement. The e-brake has to come WAYYY up before it does anything. I'm reluctantly planning on doing a rear shoe replacement, possibly rebuilding the spring assemblies in the brakes, too. I need a firm pedal with minimal travel. Or, I want that, anyway.