Another 4runner won't start thread! I've read them all...

the kid said:
ill check but im sure these motors can be 180 out/off what ever you want to call it. other wise you could just do what ever you wanted as long as the marks are lined up and be good. and i know that is not the case. you can not turn the cams or the crank independently of each other [without matching the rest] and expect the motor to work... that would be great if you could but im pretty sure i cant just go start spinning a cam gear(or crank) how ever i want and then think that as long as i get the mark lined back up im good to go.

ill double check on this but im pretty sure everything has to get lined back up in sink with everything else
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My belief is that as long as all THREE are lined up, you are good to go. Spin any one of them 360° and you are still good to go. This puts cyl 1 at TDC, and the valves such that cyl 1 is at end of compression stroke. I look forward to your explanation--I'm happy to learn if I'm wrong but I need a reason. I know of nothing on any individual shaft that is different at 0° on one revolution from 0° on the next.

Obviously, you don't want to spin a shaft on an interference motor, and just as good practice I didn't do that when I changed my TB--I kept the shafts as they were when I took the belt off just as I did when I did my son's interference Hyundai Accent.
 
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TheDurk said:
64398d1337227175-need-help-spark-plug_wires-zcruiser.jpg
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Thank you so much! I knew it would be a D'OH moment when we figured it out. I wasn't the one that marked the wires coming out and was going off those markings going back in. You rock! :bravo:

Thanks to everyone else that chimed in with opinions as well.

Cheers!
 
TheDurk said:
My belief is that as long as all THREE are lined up, you are good to go. Spin any one of them 360° and you are still good to go. This puts cyl 1 at TDC, and the valves such that cyl 1 is at end of compression stroke. I look forward to your explanation--I'm happy to learn if I'm wrong but I need a reason. I know of nothing on any individual shaft that is different at 0° on one revolution from 0° on the next.
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I have to agree with this.
 
TheDurk said:
My belief is that as long as all THREE are lined up, you are good to go. Spin any one of them 360° and you are still good to go. This puts cyl 1 at TDC, and the valves such that cyl 1 is at end of compression stroke. I look forward to your explanation--I'm happy to learn if I'm wrong but I need a reason. I know of nothing on any individual shaft that is different at 0° on one revolution from 0° on the next.
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nothing is different, but the sensors count the rotations, if you add an extra rotation to any one of them the signal will be sent at the wrong time thus not allowing the motor to run -spark signal could be sent at the wront tim, or fuel signal could be wrong or both... the physical mechanics of the cams and crank in rotation will not change, one rotation is one rotation, but the cam gears and the crank gear are different sizes, so they will not turn one for one


think of a bicycle, just cause you pedal one full rotation does not mean your tire will turn one full rotation...
 
There's still that parasitic drain, but at least it's running. When I measure the amps in series it jumps up to 500mA at the start then settles around 260mA. I will start to source that one out tomorrow.
 
a_young240 said:
Thank you so much! I knew it would be a D'OH moment when we figured it out. I wasn't the one that marked the wires coming out and was going off those markings going back in. You rock! :bravo:

Thanks to everyone else that chimed in with opinions as well.

Cheers!
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LOL. Happy to help. That diagram has saved the day for several unhappy people. Glad you got it going.
 
the kid said:
nothing is different, but the sensors count the rotations, if you add an extra rotation to any one of them the signal will be sent at the wrong time thus not allowing the motor to run -spark signal could be sent at the wront tim, or fuel signal could be wrong or both... the physical mechanics of the cams and crank in rotation will not change, one rotation is one rotation, but the cam gears and the crank gear are different sizes, so they will not turn one for one


think of a bicycle, just cause you pedal one full rotation does not mean your tire will turn one full rotation...
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Sorry, you have to do better than that. We know the rotations--it's two on the crank for each rev on the cams. No news there. The rest is not really persuasive. The signals come from the sensors, and they are tied to the pulleys/sprockets that have the marks. You need to tell me why those signals would be different other than for shaft position.
 
looks like you figured it out... but I wanted to say that if you have fuel and spark, you need to check compression and if that's good, verify your spark plug wires are correct.

I just destroyed like 32 valves on a Jaguar 4.0 because the dipshit that tore the engine down incorrectly labed the cams and cam caps before getting fired and leaving the job to me... all that wasted time.
 
the kid said:
nothing is different, but the sensors count the rotations, if you add an extra rotation to any one of them the signal will be sent at the wrong time thus not allowing the motor to run -spark signal could be sent at the wront tim, or fuel signal could be wrong or both... the physical mechanics of the cams and crank in rotation will not change, one rotation is one rotation, but the cam gears and the crank gear are different sizes, so they will not turn one for one


think of a bicycle, just cause you pedal one full rotation does not mean your tire will turn one full rotation...
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My understanding is the one rotation thedurk is speaking of is with the belt off. Unless you have a sheared dowel between the cam and cam pulley when the timing marks are properly aligned then the valve timing has to be good.
 
so if the cams are one rotation out then everything will still run? but wouldnt they be duping fuel in on the dead stroke or do out motors dump fuel in on the dead stroke anyways...?
 
The thing is you cant get it out of rotation. You can rotate it one rotation as many times as you like but if you stop at the timing marks its always the same.
 
i guess im not making sense and i dont know how else to ask it or say what im saying so im just gonna stop and hope the OP hasnt written us off no that we have taken off with his thread.
 
Just to be clear my examples were with the timing belt off. If you start rotating the engine one rotation at a time with the belt on then thats different. You will have to rotate the engine many times to get back the original position but it will come back. The OP probably doesn't care now that he's running, I hope.
 
the kid said:
so if the cams are one rotation out then everything will still run? but wouldnt they be duping fuel in on the dead stroke or do out motors dump fuel in on the dead stroke anyways...?
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Yes it will run. Fuel gets injected on the intake down stroke just before the compression upstroke, never on the exhaust (dead) stroke.

I'm going to make one more try and then I'll let this go. One rotation on the cam makes no difference. After one rotation, cyl 1 is on compression, just as it was before the rotation started. Cyl 1 is on exhaust when the cam is at 180° and the marks are at 6 o'clock. There is a cam position sensor to tell the ECM when it is time to inject fuel on 1 as opposed to 4 and fire the plugs on both. The only way you get fuel on the dead stroke is take the pulley off the camshaft and turn it 180° and put it back on.
 
Post all you want! :trophy: You guys helped me figure out our stupid mistake... much thanks! Now for this parasitic drain that's happening...
 
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