Another Amsoil Oil Filter Bypass Installed
- Thread starter RL Lemke
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RL Lemke
New member
Koz said:
Yes, that is the plan.
Have you received any oil analysis results yet?
I know that the oil will last a lot longer than 10,000 miles. My concern is the breaking of the long-chain molecules as I drive. I want the very best engine protection. The first step was the addition of the bypass filter to remove the smallest contaminants. The second step is to use the very best oil, and to keep it fresh.
An oil analysis looks at what is suspended in the oil, not the oil itself. I am keen on keeping that Amsoil created long-chain molecule doing its job. By the time the oil shows higher metal, there is already wear.
Am I wasting money, changing oil this often? When compared to how long I own a vehicle, and the desire for ultimate reliability, I don
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Koz
New member
RL Lemke said:
I have not yet reached my first filter change (Truck was in the body shop from accident).
Synthetic oils are not purified, but rather designed within a lab for lubrication purposes, it is comprised of molecules of uniform size and shape. Therefore, even if synthetic oil does burn a little, the remaining oil has the same chemical characteristics that it had before the burn off. There are no smaller molecules to burn-off and no heavier molecules to leave behind.
If you change the oil at 10K miles you will be throwing money in the toilet (alot of money, cost of bypass and over 2 gal oil expensive oil). The whole purpose of the bypass is to provide super clean oil all the time, so you can extend the change intervals. At 10K miles you will be throwing away oil that is as good as new. I suggest that at 10K miles BEFORE dumping the oil, change the FF filter, top it off, and have it analyzed.
You could run Amsoil 0w-30 for 35K miles (with filter changes) WITHOUT a bypass. Why would you install a bypass when you are going to change the oil at 10K miles?
Koz
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Koz
New member
The by-pass oil filter removes water and particles/contaminants smaller than one micron. It significantly increases the time oil can safely be left in the engine and virtually eliminating engine wear. It provides the best possible filtration protection against, oil degradation, rust and corrosion.
The oil approaches the by-pass filter first where there is a back pressure valve located just before the full flow filter. This spring loaded ball valve (I think Amsoil replaced the ball valve with a hollow tubular check-valve) forces about 10% of the oil to go through the by-pass filter and 90% of the oil passes through the full flow filter. The by-pass oil filters filter all the oil in a six-quart system in about five minutes at an average speed of 45 mph. The by-pass filter filters all the oil in the system several times an hour, so the engine continuously receives analytically clean oil.
Koz
The oil approaches the by-pass filter first where there is a back pressure valve located just before the full flow filter. This spring loaded ball valve (I think Amsoil replaced the ball valve with a hollow tubular check-valve) forces about 10% of the oil to go through the by-pass filter and 90% of the oil passes through the full flow filter. The by-pass oil filters filter all the oil in a six-quart system in about five minutes at an average speed of 45 mph. The by-pass filter filters all the oil in the system several times an hour, so the engine continuously receives analytically clean oil.
Koz
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Whoknows
Member
Install q's
RL Lemke,
I'm going to do this install soon. I'm following the writeups from both you and Koz. Thanks to you both, BTW, for putting these on the forum (and inspiring me to spend more money on my 4runner).
I'm going to drill and use bolts as you did for installing the adapter plate.
What size whole did you drill in the bumper?
Did you use a washer on the inside of the bumper to ensure the bolt heads are secure?
Things I should be particularly careful about?
RL Lemke,
I'm going to do this install soon. I'm following the writeups from both you and Koz. Thanks to you both, BTW, for putting these on the forum (and inspiring me to spend more money on my 4runner).
I'm going to drill and use bolts as you did for installing the adapter plate.
What size whole did you drill in the bumper?
Did you use a washer on the inside of the bumper to ensure the bolt heads are secure?
Things I should be particularly careful about?
RL Lemke
New member
Re: Install q's
I have a large collection of stainless bolts, so nearly every project I have uses these bolts & nylock nuts.
The hole size? Just a bit bigger than the bolts you use.
Washer? Use a locking washer to help keep it from spinning. I also squirted a bunch of 1 minute epoxy in the hole to hold everything in place. There is a Devcon brand with a long tube that mixes the two epoxy parts as you squeeze. Lowe's has it I think, if not Home Depot. Then I held the bolt tight as it cured.
When I thighteded the nuts, the bolt broke free from the epoxy. I used Vice Grips to hold the bolt as I completed tightening the nuts.
If I were to do it again? I would probably add angle iron to support the weight from the top of the bumper too.
All steel parts I painted with several coats of rust proof paint after drilling the holes.
Whoknows said:
I have a large collection of stainless bolts, so nearly every project I have uses these bolts & nylock nuts.
The hole size? Just a bit bigger than the bolts you use.
Washer? Use a locking washer to help keep it from spinning. I also squirted a bunch of 1 minute epoxy in the hole to hold everything in place. There is a Devcon brand with a long tube that mixes the two epoxy parts as you squeeze. Lowe's has it I think, if not Home Depot. Then I held the bolt tight as it cured.
When I thighteded the nuts, the bolt broke free from the epoxy. I used Vice Grips to hold the bolt as I completed tightening the nuts.
If I were to do it again? I would probably add angle iron to support the weight from the top of the bumper too.
All steel parts I painted with several coats of rust proof paint after drilling the holes.
spyne
New member
Couple of questions. Maybe I'm mistaken, but if you get into any kind of an impact that pushes back the front bumper aren't you going to crush the filters and lose your oil? Seems to me that you're going to be having to tow the 4R home from a lot of accidents that would have been driveable before. Not that any of us wants to think about getting in accidents. 
How is the clearance for getting an oil filter wrench on the filters? Seems a bit tight, but again I haven't looked up under my bumper to see how much space there really is there.
BTW, nice job and interesting thread.
How is the clearance for getting an oil filter wrench on the filters? Seems a bit tight, but again I haven't looked up under my bumper to see how much space there really is there.
BTW, nice job and interesting thread.
RL Lemke
New member
I would suspect that if the impact is enough to move the bumper back that far, the 4Runner had better be towed to a garage anyway.
Minor hits, where idiots park by sound, will have no negative effect on the relocated filter.
Room to remove the filters? I have rubber strap wrenches, so no problem. Much easier than the removal from next to the anti-roll bar behind the skid plate.
Minor hits, where idiots park by sound, will have no negative effect on the relocated filter.
Room to remove the filters? I have rubber strap wrenches, so no problem. Much easier than the removal from next to the anti-roll bar behind the skid plate.
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The_Runner
New member
Do you remember which adapter that you used?
