Another Amsoil Oil Filter Bypass Installed

RL Lemke

New member
Koz motivated me to go ahead and install an Amsoil Bypass Oil Filter. I was tired of removing the skidplate every time I wanted to change my oil.

The installation placed the bypass on the backside of the front bumper, the same place Koz selected. I drilled two holes thru the bumper with a 90 degree pivot.
 

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Here is the backside of the bumper. I used bell wire to snake bolts from the open end of the bumper frame.
 

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Here is the assembled bypass filter ready to install onto the bumper.

The kit installed is the Amsoil Dual Remote Oil Filtration System # BMK-13.

The kit includes Loctite 545 purple thread sealant. Maybe I used too much, but I wish Amsoil included twice the amount.

Kit Substitutions: I replaced all their SAE hardware with stainless steel metric hardware from my supply.

Additional Supplies: 1) 1.5-cm wide professional zip ties. 2) Self sealing and healing (no glue) tape to protect hose at all places where it touches the 4Runner. 3) Steel plate per the dimensions of Koz.
 

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I applied 1 minute epoxy to the inside of the bumper to attach the bolts. This permitted to get the nuts started without the bolt turning. I then used vice-grips to hold the bolt while I tightened the nuts. I also applied more epoxy to the backside of this steel plate to secure it to the bumber frame.
 

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Here is what it looks like with the two filters. Using Koz's dimensions for the support steel, neither filter extends below the bumper frame, thus well protected.

As you can see I used the Amsoil BE-90 bypass filter. I included the Amsoil SDF15 oil filter.
 

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Here is the oil bypass installed onto the 4Runner oil filter location.
 

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Here is what the fully installed bypass filters look like.

It took two gallons plus about a quart to get a full reading on the dip stick. WOW!! That is a lot of oil. I have the 2004 V8 4Runner.

With this oil change, I used the Amsoil Series 2000 0-30 racing oil. Their very best.
 

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Great job RL Lemke.

Looks like you really had fun with mounting the adapter plate. I took the easy way out with rivets. I can always unbolt the filter mount from the adapter if it needs to be removed. If you routed the hoses the same way as me, a small section is exposed in the wheel well. I recently covered that section with electrical wire-way (plastic spiral type, sold at any auto parts store. I'll post a pic as soon as I can.

Koz
 
oldboy said:
RL, great job! :bigok:

One quick question: This self sealing and headling tape - is it similar to Scotch-SealTM 2229 Mastic Tape located at this link?

No, I use that tape for wiring because of the mastic on the underside of the tape. Great stuff.

I found the same thing as what I used. Silicone Atomic Tape. 866-838-4185
 
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This is the hose routing past the skidplate and around the frame to the front of the 4Runner. I added a split hose to the edge of the skidplate to protect the hoses.
 

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RL Lemke said:
Here is what the fully installed bypass filters look like.

It took two gallons plus about a quart to get a full reading on the dip stick. WOW!! That is a lot of oil. I have the 2004 V8 4Runner.

With this oil change, I used the Amsoil Series 2000 0-30 racing oil. Their very best.

Wow, that is a lot of oil! Nice job, but do you feel it was worth the expense and effort> And, how often do you think you might now change your oil? Every 35,000 mile? More? Less?
 
Obadiah said:
Wow, that is a lot of oil! Nice job, but do you feel it was worth the expense and effort> And, how often do you think you might now change your oil? Every 35,000 mile? More? Less?

I like the look so clean oil. Without the bypass my oil turned brown after 5,000 miles. With this filter set-up I will extend the drain to 10,000 miles. If I performed oil sampling, like Koz, I could easily go the 100,000 miles Koz referenced. Since I'm a bit more conservative, I'll just stick with 10,000 miles. This is four times a year.
 
RL Lemke said:
I like the look so clean oil. Without the bypass my oil turned brown after 5,000 miles. With this filter set-up I will extend the drain to 10,000 miles. If I performed oil sampling, like Koz, I could easily go the 100,000 miles Koz referenced. Since I'm a bit more conservative, I'll just stick with 10,000 miles. This is four times a year.

Not for nothing but why did you install this system? It has been proven that you can safely go 10K miles on quality synthetic oil without a bypass. The Amsoil 0w-30 is rated to go 35K miles or 1 year without a bypass. Then again, some people are wasting their money changing their synthetic oil at 3-5K miles. Whatever!

Koz
 
RL Lemke, a couple of questions....

How long does it take the bp filter to hit operating temperature?

Does it warm up in the same amount of time to warm up every time, given similar conditions?

Does the bp filter depend on the pressure delta in the ff filter to return oil back to the down stream side?

Are there any moving parts in the filter mount?

Great looking installation.
 
Larry said:
RL Lemke, a couple of questions....

How long does it take the bp filter to hit operating temperature?

Does it warm up in the same amount of time to warm up every time, given similar conditions?

Does the bp filter depend on the pressure delta in the ff filter to return oil back to the down stream side?

Are there any moving parts in the filter mount?

Great looking installation.

Excellent question. I was wondering the same thing. I was also wondering how practical it would be in a cold climate to have to wait for the oil and engine to warm up. Two+ gallons of oil is a lot, and I wonder if it would actually be hard on the engine in the winter due to a longer warming period.
 
Larry said:
RL Lemke, a couple of questions....

How long does it take the bp filter to hit operating temperature?

Does it warm up in the same amount of time to warm up every time, given similar conditions?

Does the bp filter depend on the pressure delta in the ff filter to return oil back to the down stream side?

Are there any moving parts in the filter mount?

Great looking installation.

1) Warm-up time? Well, I live in Texas, and it's still summer. So...........
2) Bypass filter design? Don't know. http://www.amsoil.com
3) Moving parts on the mount? Sure hope not as I used a lot of epoxy. Of course, the hoses provide flexibility should I have some bumper-action. At the local Amsoil distribution they have a cut bypass filter kit to look at. If I recall right there is a spring inside the filter plate. I'll have to look closer when next I am there.
 
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Obadiah said:
Excellent question. I was wondering the same thing. I was also wondering how practical it would be in a cold climate to have to wait for the oil and engine to warm up. Two+ gallons of oil is a lot, and I wonder if it would actually be hard on the engine in the winter due to a longer warming period.

Cold climate? Well, I am from Nebraska so I do know from cold.

I would suspect that the superior immediate lubrication qualities of the Amsoil 0-30, more than make-up for any increased volume. Remember, that Porsche and other auto makers use 9+ quarts of engine oil.

In deed there are three warm-up factors to consider: 1) The expansion of all metal parts to their operational size; 2) Water temperature; and 3) Oil temperature.

I find that regardless of outside temperature, I let the water temperature rise to the normal range for minutes before pressing the engine in any way. When I head to Nebraska to visit family over Christmas, I wait several minutes after the water temperature normalizes before asking much from the engine.

I pity the fools that I hear revving cold engines.

In addition to the engine, I have switched to synthetic in the transfer case and differentials. Synthetic gear oil has a superior operational temperature range, and even better it doesn
 
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Koz said:
Not for nothing but why did you install this system? It has been proven that you can safely go 10K miles on quality synthetic oil without a bypass. The Amsoil 0w-30 is rated to go 35K miles or 1 year without a bypass. Then again, some people are wasting their money changing their synthetic oil at 3-5K miles. Whatever!

Koz

Texas driving is considered severe duty by every manufacturer.

http://www.amsoil.com/bypassfilters/instructions/bmk11/change_intervals_640px.gif

I realize that this is in conflict with this from the Series 2000 0-30 web page: SERVICE LIFE

In personal cars and light-duty trucks with non-turbocharged gasoline engines: drain oil at 35,000-mile or one-year intervals, whichever comes first.

AMSOIL Oil Filters should be changed at 12,500-mile or six-month intervals (whichever comes first) in gasoline engines. Non-AMSOIL oil filters should be changed at the engine manufacturer's recommended filter change intervals.

I'll just stick with a happy middle-ground and change everything at 10,000 miles. It's not that much $$ when compared to the use I am getting from my 4Runner.
 
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