Ugh!
Stepping back, is this believed to be the cause of the overheating? In other words it was running low on coolant due to the leak?
Side note --> Will you have the shop do it or are you going to tackle it yourself.
~Jason
Another overheating thread, sorry.
- Thread starter ASUMTNEER
- Start date
Ugh!
Stepping back, is this believed to be the cause of the overheating? In other words it was running low on coolant due to the leak?
Side note --> Will you have the shop do it or are you going to tackle it yourself.
~Jason
When I bought the car I remember seeing drop of coolant coming off the skid plate, so I pressure tested the system. The system seemed to hold pressure, but the cap did not, so I replaced the cap and assumed that was the issue. I decided to flush the system to replace the old green stuff and that's when I started seeing the overheating. I just figured I had air pockets and the coolant was low because of that. Then I noticed the leak and here we are.
Going to get the shop to do the work. $300 for the labor and I bought an AISIN kit for about $250.
Roger that, thanks. It needs to be fixed regardless. All part of the journey.
$300 labor sounds like a great deal. I am thinking of DIY myself, but if it's that low then I may rethink it. I haven't explored my options here in Austin.
~Jason
I called 2 shops that are trusted locally. One shop is full of ex Toyota techs and quoted $700 for parts/labor/tax. The shop I went with is just down the street from my work and quoted $300 labor and parts will take the total to around $550, so I went with him. Good luck to you. For me, it was a no brainer to have a pro do it for $300.
It might be the cooler hose that is leaking.
I'll check this, thanks.
Thanks for the insight. I agree with your decision.
Side note --> Couldn't encourage you more to change all coolant hoses while they are in there. Yes it will add more but really unless you have receipts for a recent change, it's just buying time. My 02 cents of course, worth what you paid for it.
Jason
Side note --> Couldn't encourage you more to change all coolant hoses while they are in there. Yes it will add more but really unless you have receipts for a recent change, it's just buying time. My 02 cents of course, worth what you paid for it.
Jason
Thanks for the insight. I agree with your decision.
Side note --> Couldn't encourage you more to change all coolant hoses while they are in there. Yes it will add more but really unless you have receipts for a recent change, it's just buying time. My 02 cents of course, worth what you paid for it.
Jason
All hoses would be: upper/lower rad hoses and both oil cooler hoses?
Yes, those hoses for sure. There is a great thread on this, with part numbers that I will find and include. I used this list when I bought all my hoses.
Here it is --> What other hoses should I replace?
Again, I went there on mine b/c of the uncertainty around the new used truck and the desire to keep it "forever". I loath being stuck on side of road for something stupid (been there) + having to change "something else" every weekend. Buy once, cry once. But this all depends on your goals for the truck.
Many of the hoses will be very accessible during a timing belt change I believe.
~Jason
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Romeo1
Member
The oil cooler isn’t a big deal to fix. You just have to make a little room inside of the fender area.
It’s like a $9 worth of gaskets. Two of them if I remember right when I did mine a few years ago. Just take the wheel off and remove the rubber liner cover.
Ifthe radiator is junky, just change it. It’s not even worth the fight. It’s Like $140. May as well back flush the heater cores also. They’re probably plugged up some. Check the heater shutoff valve also. They tend to corrode out.
It’s like a $9 worth of gaskets. Two of them if I remember right when I did mine a few years ago. Just take the wheel off and remove the rubber liner cover.
Ifthe radiator is junky, just change it. It’s not even worth the fight. It’s Like $140. May as well back flush the heater cores also. They’re probably plugged up some. Check the heater shutoff valve also. They tend to corrode out.
100% agree.
Romeo1
Member
The high placement of the heater valve is part of the problem of cooling system corrosion. The other part, oddly enough, is because these 4runners and 5vz-fe motors are so damn tough. Just unbelievably hearty. So much to the point that they actually tend to get neglected by owners.
It’s not a bad thing though, the more leaks the better when it comes to purchasing for me. #PRICEDROP!
OTC makes a really sweet back flush gun for cooling systems. After using that back flush gun the first time, and seeing how well it worked, I looked at it with lovingly eyes, and asked where have you been all my life…..
link to the one you like ?
