Anti-Seize... Worth it?

hamburglar210

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I live in Colorado and try to keep my car pretty clean but they use mag chloride on the roads here and I've heard it can be quite destructive... I have plans to eventually replace my skids with Bud Built skids but it won't happen for at least a year. Is it worth it now to pull the bolts and use some anti-seize to make the swapping easier later?

I try to keep the underside of my cars clean when there is salt on the roads but I've never had a new one so I have no experience with how quickly or slowly rust can cause problems.

I'd like the swap to still be a DIY thing when I can get around to it but if there is rust and it causes some bolts to break I'll be pissed.
 
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Coming from somebody who just pulled his bud builds and broke several very difficult to replace welded in nuts. I highly recommend it.

Anti seize is cheap. Just do it a bolt at a time and you wont have to remove any skid plates
 
Coming from somebody who just pulled his bud builds and broke several very difficult to replace welded in nuts. I highly recommend it.

Anti seize is cheap. Just do it a bolt at a time and you wont have to remove any skid plates

^^^^What he said! I coated my factory skid bolts for this exact reason. DO IT!
 
If your fingers are not silver after working on your truck, you did something wrong.....and will regret it later. As a wise man once said: DO IT!
 
They also use mag chloride here. My truck was only 5 months old when I first removed the stock splash pans and I had an issue with a couple of bolts so yup for sure.
 
If your fingers are not silver after working on your truck, you did something wrong.....and will regret it later. As a wise man once said: DO IT!
I use the copper based Locktite C5-A Loctite C5-A Copper Anti-Seize rather then the silver stuff since that's what we use on airplanes.You can get a lifetime supply for $12 as I've had the same bottle for at least 10 years. A dab will do ya!
 
Ditto what Harper7 said. I've used the copper based Anti-sieze for years. Must be that aircraft influence!
 
Guess I can google it later but is not copper for high heat? Also, any different interactions with copper in regards to steel?
 
as a former mechanic in the Navy, and working at sea for many years, I cannot tell you how much I love antisieze on things subjected to the "elements" and anything harsh. it's a god send!

2 "fluids" I always had in my toolboxes were various colors (strengths) of Loc-Tite and that gorgeous gold/coppery colored antisieze.
 
am i missing out by using the permatex silver instead? what is so special about the loctite copper stuff. I'm a big anti-seize fan. i think it is an underused product.
 
am i missing out by using the permatex silver instead? what is so special about the loctite copper stuff. I'm a big anti-seize fan. i think it is an underused product.
Probably never even notice a difference as most modern anti sieze's are of good quality. I just like the C5-A because it's a good all purpose anti sieze, comes with a brush and isn't near as messy as the stuff in tubes as it seemed to always make a mess. http://www.henkel.mx/mxe/content_data/83749_LT3355v4_MROantiseize.pdf Some say the copper can cause galvanic corrosion between certain metals,like SS bolts and aluminum but I think the moon would have to be in the right phase and winds out of the south southeast off the Gulf for that to happen as I've never seen corrosion on bolts after using it on vehicles.And corroded bolts are a mechanics worst enemy, that and them dang metric allen head bolts that certain German car makers built by their robots seem to love.lol

I actually use the red Locktite thread locker on things that I know(hope) that are not coming apart again like on the bolts for the diffs I changed out. It seals the threads too to prevent corrosion as good as the anti sieze.
 
i own a fishing boat in alaska. Always use some form of anti-seize lubricant. My favorite is a product made by FORESPAR CALLED LANOCOAT. had a 30,000 $ peice of equiptment show up last week and it had come from the factory with lanocoat on all the bolts so they must think its good stuff too.

the other approach i use is to put blue thread locker on any bolts i dont want to anti seize, sealing the threads and locking out any corrosion. i have been doing this for about ten years now and i drive my toyotas through saltwater seems to work pretty good so far.

if you do have a seized bolt hit it with a small hammer rapidly but with small light taps,heat it with a torch ,try to concentrate the heat into the fastener not the surrounding material,then spray it down with penetrant causing the bolt to shrink and pulling the penetrant into the threads. i can get most bolts out using this method.
 

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Since we're all talking about anti-seize here, I wanted to ask...what do you guys think about those lipstick versions? I hated the mess of using the brush in a bottle kind and have been using the lipstick version for a while. It "seems" to work, but what do I know.

Loctite-Anti-Seize-Stick.jpg
 
Aluminum and stainless do not mix well in a marine environment. probably fine in arizona or texas but anywhere there is salt on the roads i would think this is a possibility. I saw some newer 2005-ish vehicles in newyork,illinios and michigan that had their fenderwells rusted out. The roads there are worse than anything i have seen in coastal alaska and left a layer of salt on my 4runner after just several hours of driving.

Heres some 3/8 aluminum plate , thru-bolted with 3/8 s.s. fasteners the white powder is corrosion ,salt ,corroded aluminum. I had to use a 1/2 inch breaker bar to get the bolts turning. not so bad on 3/8 and up fasteners but if these were 1/4 inch bolts they would be snapping
so always use some form of anti-seize ,even normal clear silicon sealent has worked well for us on aluminum and stainless. my personal preference is the lanocoat brand as it is not messy (no silver fingers) but the machinist down the street prefers a blue moly anti-seize so go figure.
 

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