Antman's Excellent Cargo Mod
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delloro
New member
parts list:
2" x 2" x 48" aluminum square tube from local metal yard
ETA: 1" x 1" x 48" aluminum angle, 1/8" thick from home depot
48" piano hinge from home depot
5' x 5' x 12mm baltic birch plywood from local lumber yard (Reel Lumber)
2' x 4' birch plywood from home depot - get the 100% birch laminate
this radiant barrier ordered from home depot
black automotive carpet from auto upholstery supplier to line cargo area, I got too much, you need about 48 sq. in., measure first, I think it was this stuff.
grey outdoor carpet from local ace hardware, enough to cover both sides of deck, I got too much.
6mm nuts, bolts, etc. from home depot and lowe's
crc spray adhesive from harbor freight, I used 2 cans
3m super 90 spray adhesive, I used a whole can, from home depot
laminate flooring underlayment from lowe's. 2mm thick, light blue, foil on one side.
2 cargo tie-downs from ebay
8-32 fasteners and t-nuts to attach tie-downs
flat black paint and rustoleum spray-on bedliner
screws
2-part epoxy
generic harbor freight riv-nut tool
will add as I remember things
2" x 2" x 48" aluminum square tube from local metal yard
ETA: 1" x 1" x 48" aluminum angle, 1/8" thick from home depot
48" piano hinge from home depot
5' x 5' x 12mm baltic birch plywood from local lumber yard (Reel Lumber)
2' x 4' birch plywood from home depot - get the 100% birch laminate
this radiant barrier ordered from home depot
black automotive carpet from auto upholstery supplier to line cargo area, I got too much, you need about 48 sq. in., measure first, I think it was this stuff.
grey outdoor carpet from local ace hardware, enough to cover both sides of deck, I got too much.
6mm nuts, bolts, etc. from home depot and lowe's
crc spray adhesive from harbor freight, I used 2 cans
3m super 90 spray adhesive, I used a whole can, from home depot
laminate flooring underlayment from lowe's. 2mm thick, light blue, foil on one side.
2 cargo tie-downs from ebay
8-32 fasteners and t-nuts to attach tie-downs
flat black paint and rustoleum spray-on bedliner
screws
2-part epoxy
generic harbor freight riv-nut tool
will add as I remember things
Last edited:
delloro
New member
1st step is to remove the front cargo tie-downs, the filler piece they hold down, the rear carpet, the underlying styrofoam, the rear trim piece. a 10mm socket is all I remember using. you should be down to metal.
measure width for aluminum to fit across the cargo hook supports. mark for holes, you will attach the aluminum piece with 6mm bolts. I used 6mm x 25 bolts up through the bottom of the integral nuts in the supports, leaving "studs" sticking up.
I drilled along the axis centerline of the aluminum, but my supports were NOT equally spaced from the ends. measure each hole location individually. or drill twice like I did. the bottom holes were 5/16", the top were 15/16" (as big as my uni-bit will go). I also drilled access holes in the front so I could use my fingers to put the washers and nuts on the studs, inside the 2x2 aluminum.
cut and install the radiant barrier, I used 2 pieces, placed in the bottom of the cargo area. there is a ridge running sideways, only 8 inches or so behind the rear seat backs. I think it is for the 3rd-row seats I do not have. that ridge divides the cargo area into two.
install 2 riv-nuts on the center of the ridge, the holes are predrilled, the 1/4 inserts fit perfectly.
next install the auto carpet, the latex-backed carpet I got was perfect for this, as it was not too stiff, and it conformed to the irregular shape of the cargo area. leave it wide enough to fit under the plastic lining in the interior. it only stuffs under an inch or less each side. leave it long enough to extend to the clips in back, and to cover the supports in the front.
once the carpet is in place, measure how tall the side supports need to be. push down on the carpet when measuring, to simulate a load. measure so the side support tops will be level with the top of the aluminum cross piece. cut the side supports from the 3/4" plywood. my driver's side and passenger side supports were not the same height; one was a tad higher. 1/16" or so. measure yours to be sure.
again, while pressing down on the carpet, measure for the rear piece. use 3/4" plywood.
do the same for the piece that goes along the top of the ridge, you will have to cut away a little from the bottom of the ends, you will understand. mark this piece for holes, to allow 1/4-20 bolts to thread into the riv-nuts underneath. 3/4" plywood.
cut another piece of 3/4 plywood for the piece extending from the middle of the rear piece, to the middle of the piece across the ridge. it was not centered between the 2 bolt holes in the ridge piece, it was offset a tad. part of the metal floor under this piece is stamped down, I used some 2-part epoxy to fill that depression, so the wood piece has 100% support. don't forget the release agent, masking, etc. with the epoxy.
I cut the header piece, the front wood panel up against the aluminum cross piece, from the 12mm birch.
I painted all the wood flat black, then sprayed with the bedliner. the bedliner was a PITA to spray, and I don't like the finish, I would just brush on more enamel next time and skip the bedliner.
(continued)
once I cut the deck to width, and set the aluminum cross piece in place, I realized that my plan of putting the piano hinge on the forward edge of the crosspiece would not work. there are 2 plastic bosses, one on either side, for the angled trim panel that was behind the seat backs. the bosses are about an inch forward of the crosspiece. so, I cut a piece of 1" x 1" aluminum angle to mount to the front of the crosspiece. that provided a 1" shelf to attach the piano hinge, putting the hinge pin just beyond the bosses, allowing the deck to pivot up without the front edge hitting the bosses.
measure width for aluminum to fit across the cargo hook supports. mark for holes, you will attach the aluminum piece with 6mm bolts. I used 6mm x 25 bolts up through the bottom of the integral nuts in the supports, leaving "studs" sticking up.
I drilled along the axis centerline of the aluminum, but my supports were NOT equally spaced from the ends. measure each hole location individually. or drill twice like I did. the bottom holes were 5/16", the top were 15/16" (as big as my uni-bit will go). I also drilled access holes in the front so I could use my fingers to put the washers and nuts on the studs, inside the 2x2 aluminum.
cut and install the radiant barrier, I used 2 pieces, placed in the bottom of the cargo area. there is a ridge running sideways, only 8 inches or so behind the rear seat backs. I think it is for the 3rd-row seats I do not have. that ridge divides the cargo area into two.
install 2 riv-nuts on the center of the ridge, the holes are predrilled, the 1/4 inserts fit perfectly.
next install the auto carpet, the latex-backed carpet I got was perfect for this, as it was not too stiff, and it conformed to the irregular shape of the cargo area. leave it wide enough to fit under the plastic lining in the interior. it only stuffs under an inch or less each side. leave it long enough to extend to the clips in back, and to cover the supports in the front.
once the carpet is in place, measure how tall the side supports need to be. push down on the carpet when measuring, to simulate a load. measure so the side support tops will be level with the top of the aluminum cross piece. cut the side supports from the 3/4" plywood. my driver's side and passenger side supports were not the same height; one was a tad higher. 1/16" or so. measure yours to be sure.
again, while pressing down on the carpet, measure for the rear piece. use 3/4" plywood.
do the same for the piece that goes along the top of the ridge, you will have to cut away a little from the bottom of the ends, you will understand. mark this piece for holes, to allow 1/4-20 bolts to thread into the riv-nuts underneath. 3/4" plywood.
cut another piece of 3/4 plywood for the piece extending from the middle of the rear piece, to the middle of the piece across the ridge. it was not centered between the 2 bolt holes in the ridge piece, it was offset a tad. part of the metal floor under this piece is stamped down, I used some 2-part epoxy to fill that depression, so the wood piece has 100% support. don't forget the release agent, masking, etc. with the epoxy.
I cut the header piece, the front wood panel up against the aluminum cross piece, from the 12mm birch.
I painted all the wood flat black, then sprayed with the bedliner. the bedliner was a PITA to spray, and I don't like the finish, I would just brush on more enamel next time and skip the bedliner.
(continued)
once I cut the deck to width, and set the aluminum cross piece in place, I realized that my plan of putting the piano hinge on the forward edge of the crosspiece would not work. there are 2 plastic bosses, one on either side, for the angled trim panel that was behind the seat backs. the bosses are about an inch forward of the crosspiece. so, I cut a piece of 1" x 1" aluminum angle to mount to the front of the crosspiece. that provided a 1" shelf to attach the piano hinge, putting the hinge pin just beyond the bosses, allowing the deck to pivot up without the front edge hitting the bosses.
Last edited:
WakeDreams
New member
Nice work here, clean and it looks like a solid install. I did just look at the post at a glance because I am rushing to get out of the office but I will be coming back to take a longer look as soon as possible! Nicely done!
DesertCanyons
New member
Excellent cargo space floor
What a great posting. I like how you described what's under the back cargo floor. That's good to know.
I've removed my 2nd row back seats for the time being. It provides a lot of storage space down low and toward the front for heavy camping gear like water jugs and the ice cooler. I'm considering building a similar wood floor to extend over where the back seats and floor drop below the cargo space. I'd build an accessible space over the seat mounts and floor for tools. Without the seats the floor would be longer from front to back. The flat floor would be better for handling gear and it would be possible to sleep laying flat.
In answer to the question above, the back seats are sloped when folded down so the floor isn't flat, but this floor mod is even with the back edge so you could sleep on it with a slight incline at the seat backs.
What a great posting. I like how you described what's under the back cargo floor. That's good to know.
I've removed my 2nd row back seats for the time being. It provides a lot of storage space down low and toward the front for heavy camping gear like water jugs and the ice cooler. I'm considering building a similar wood floor to extend over where the back seats and floor drop below the cargo space. I'd build an accessible space over the seat mounts and floor for tools. Without the seats the floor would be longer from front to back. The flat floor would be better for handling gear and it would be possible to sleep laying flat.
In answer to the question above, the back seats are sloped when folded down so the floor isn't flat, but this floor mod is even with the back edge so you could sleep on it with a slight incline at the seat backs.
delloro
New member
the rear seats are indeed at a slight incline when folded flat. the forward edge of my cargo floor ended up being a bit higher than flush with the rear edge of the folded seatbacks, but that worked out for the best, as it's a bit more level overall as it is.
with the rear seat bottoms removed, a matter of one bolt each side, there is a space long enough and flat enough for an air mattress, and for me to sleep stretched out (I am 6' tall).
as DesertCanyons explained, there is room for heavy things like water in the passenger footwell space.
wfo9
New member
Thought about a setup like this, but what happens when the truck is loaded with misc gear... and you need something under that cargo cover. Works great when empty, but....
Looks good. One thing I would like about doing something like this would be the opportunity to add way more tie down points.
Looks good. One thing I would like about doing something like this would be the opportunity to add way more tie down points.
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Ogre Ray
New member
2 sections vs 1
Just curious. ...I've been focusing on this mod too.... and am planning on doing it, also emulating antman. I saw that antman did a follow up to his build. .... to cut the lid into two halves (motivated by allowing accessibility to the stored cubby while having cargo/great in the back on top of the lid. ...... what made you stick with a solid 1 sheet lid?
Just curious. ...I've been focusing on this mod too.... and am planning on doing it, also emulating antman. I saw that antman did a follow up to his build. .... to cut the lid into two halves (motivated by allowing accessibility to the stored cubby while having cargo/great in the back on top of the lid. ...... what made you stick with a solid 1 sheet lid?
delloro
New member
well it never occurred to me to make it a 2-piece deck. that's a good idea.
delloro
New member
I did think about that. before off-roading, grab the tow strap and shackles and put them in a recovery bag. the rest of the stuff, can wait.
as to the tie downs, it's easy to put in more.
Ogre Ray
New member
The 2nd part (follow up) that Antman did (splitting into 2 panels for easy access) link is here. ....so you have pictures to look at/contemplate.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/92013-antmans-thread-27.html#post1031479
:reddance: seems like the natural progression for this mod :dance:
G8RB8_12SR5
New member
inspired by Antman's cargo mod, I thought I would try my hand at one.
it took me a while, as I changed direction a couple times, but here it is.
Nice job, I appreciate the time and creativity it took to do this having done my own. My only piece of constructive criticism/advice would be to not store your jumper cables back there if the only way to access them would require opening the tailgate. I saw it from another member when their battery died and they couldn't open the tailgate to access the cables in their drawer because of it. I incorporated a back entrance, if you will, and low and behold my battery died one day and I was glad I did. The tailgate definitely did not open. I would suggest either an alternative storage location or, if the platform isn't too high, another [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] mod, the internal trunk release to eliminate that risk.
EDIT: just realized his switch still requires battery power, either way, just want you to be aware of the battery/trunk possibility, so you don't get stuck somewhere.
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007Tacoma
New member
Alternative solution: Jumper cables under passenger seat and/or battery backup not completely stashed away.
:thumb:
Rainmaker47
New member
inspired by Antman's cargo mod, I thought I would try my hand at one.
it took me a while, as I changed direction a couple times, but here it is.
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Thanks for the ideas and sharing your work!
Immortan joe
New member
Just wanted to say thanks to Antman and deplore for their posts. I just finished this mod and I'm completely pumped now that I have a storage area as well as the ability to be essentially flat on my air mattress. Thanks for the inspiration!!
