Any solid DIY write ups for custom rear control arms?

VernySanders

VernySanders

New member
Please reference any info you have on these. I plan on building my own soon and providing a solid, in-depth, writeup like I did on the coastal front bumper. Thanks.
 
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Are you building stock replacement? Adjustable? etc... I'm certainly interested but at this point it's digging up other threads on other sites....
 
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rexassian said:
Are you building stock replacement? Adjustable? etc... I'm certainly interested but at this point it's digging up other threads on other sites....
Click to expand...

VernySanders said:
Please reference any info you have on these. I plan on building my own soon and providing a solid, in-depth, writeup like I did on the coastal front bumper. Thanks.
Click to expand...

There are a few guys who've done it in their build threads.
I'll get you started.
Building rear control arms. Thoughts and opinions
 
rexassian said:
Are you building stock replacement? Adjustable? etc... I'm certainly interested but at this point it's digging up other threads on other sites....
Click to expand...

I'd like to do some adjustable that can still sit at stock lengths. I'm guessing my main thing is critical dimensions.
 
VernySanders said:
Yes!!
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Off the top of my head I know [MENTION=118730]AssBurns[/MENTION] has 4 linked. I'm pretty sure he;s using Johnny Joints. [MENTION=67615]Dirtco[/MENTION] 3 linked if I remember correctly.

I kept the stock locations but went with Front Range OR adjustable uppers and Metal Tech adjustable lowers. I pushed the axle back about 1/2" and got a way better pinion angle.

What route do you plan on going with the links?
 
theesotericone said:
Off the top of my head I know [MENTION=118730]AssBurns[/MENTION] has 4 linked. I'm pretty sure he;s using Johnny Joints. [MENTION=67615]Dirtco[/MENTION] 3 linked if I remember correctly.

I kept the stock locations but went with Front Range OR adjustable uppers and Metal Tech adjustable lowers. I pushed the axle back about 1/2" and got a way better pinion angle.

What route do you plan on going with the links?
Click to expand...

Right now I want to get rid of the twigs, improve rideability on the sand dunes for the rear end, but ultimately I want to get my feet wet fabbing something like this because I wanna go longtravel. That's my ultimate goal. But I'm a ways from it.
 
VernySanders said:
Right now I want to get rid of the twigs, improve rideability on the sand dunes for the rear end, but ultimately I want to get my feet wet fabbing something like this because I wanna go longtravel. That's my ultimate goal. But I'm a ways from it.
Click to expand...


You mean these twigs? lol


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BFiuBrGl.jpg
 
VernySanders said:
Specifically I'd like to use duroflex joints on both sides. Not sure is anyone with a toyota is running them.
Click to expand...
I ran DuroFlex joints on my stock replacement links. They were great joints and I definitely recommend them. I sold them to [MENTION=135317]rkntoy[/MENTION] who has used and abused them for a while.
The only negative about the DurFlex joints is that they must be mounted with the joint in the neutral position (no misalignment at ride height), or else they will wear out prematurely. So just keep that in mind when using them. Stock suspension geometry allows them to be used with no issues, but if you plan to make custom brackets, just make sure everything lines up perfect when making brackets.
This was why I chose to use Ballistic Fab joints when I did my 4-link. They aren't necessarily any better than DuroFlex joints, but they can be at misalignment at ride height without issues. I didn't want to take the time to make sure all brackets are perfectly straight, especially if I had to cut things off and move things around for better geometry. I have my joints within a few degrees of neutral, and it doesn't cause any issues at all. If you have the patience to make sure things are neutral, i would still recommend DuroFlex joints. They are quiet, smooth, low maintenance and maintenance is super easy if you need to service them.
 
AssBurns said:
I ran DuroFlex joints on my stock replacement links. They were great joints and I definitely recommend them. I sold them to [MENTION=135317]rkntoy[/MENTION] who has used and abused them for a while.
The only negative about the DurFlex joints is that they must be mounted with the joint in the neutral position (no misalignment at ride height), or else they will wear out prematurely. So just keep that in mind when using them. Stock suspension geometry allows them to be used with no issues, but if you plan to make custom brackets, just make sure everything lines up perfect when making brackets.
This was why I chose to use Ballistic Fab joints when I did my 4-link. They aren't necessarily any better than DuroFlex joints, but they can be at misalignment at ride height without issues. I didn't want to take the time to make sure all brackets are perfectly straight, especially if I had to cut things off and move things around for better geometry. I have my joints within a few degrees of neutral, and it doesn't cause any issues at all. If you have the patience to make sure things are neutral, i would still recommend DuroFlex joints. They are quiet, smooth, low maintenance and maintenance is super easy if you need to service them.
Click to expand...

They have been great. Like [MENTION=118730]AssBurns[/MENTION] says they are easy to maintain and work well. Currently running them on both lowers. I also run them on my one upper (only run an upper on my passenger side.
 
AssBurns said:
I ran DuroFlex joints on my stock replacement links. They were great joints and I definitely recommend them. I sold them to [MENTION=135317]rkntoy[/MENTION] who has used and abused them for a while.
The only negative about the DurFlex joints is that they must be mounted with the joint in the neutral position (no misalignment at ride height), or else they will wear out prematurely. So just keep that in mind when using them. Stock suspension geometry allows them to be used with no issues, but if you plan to make custom brackets, just make sure everything lines up perfect when making brackets.
This was why I chose to use Ballistic Fab joints when I did my 4-link. They aren't necessarily any better than DuroFlex joints, but they can be at misalignment at ride height without issues. I didn't want to take the time to make sure all brackets are perfectly straight, especially if I had to cut things off and move things around for better geometry. I have my joints within a few degrees of neutral, and it doesn't cause any issues at all. If you have the patience to make sure things are neutral, i would still recommend DuroFlex joints. They are quiet, smooth, low maintenance and maintenance is super easy if you need to service them.
Click to expand...

Do you have a writeup on your 4link fab job? I appreciate the solid contribution of tested info Assburns sounds like I'll go the route you did. Stock replacements go with the Duroflex and when I go 4link I'll look into those ballistics. I saw a comment on another thread where you were still seeing if you liked them just as much as the Duroflex. It seems like dependent upon the application the ballistics or duroflex would be the way to go for functionality / reliability when talking stock replacement vs 4link applications in particular.
 
rkntoy said:
They have been great. Like [MENTION=118730]AssBurns[/MENTION] says they are easy to maintain and work well. Currently running them on both lowers. I also run them on my one upper (only run an upper on my passenger side.
Click to expand...

How many miles do these joints have on them by now? They seem to last forever if they're still being used. (I know they're "rebuildable")
 
VernySanders said:
Do you have a writeup on your 4link fab job? I appreciate the solid contribution of tested info Assburns sounds like I'll go the route you did. Stock replacements go with the Duroflex and when I go 4link I'll look into those ballistics. I saw a comment on another thread where you were still seeing if you liked them just as much as the Duroflex. It seems like dependent upon the application the ballistics or duroflex would be the way to go for functionality / reliability when talking stock replacement vs 4link applications in particular.
Click to expand...
Yeah it definitely depends on application and functionality. If you plan to make things work the way DuroFlex joints need to be mounted, I would still highly recommend them. They are far superior to Johnny Joints in my opinion. Ballistic joints are great because they can be tightened as they start to wear out which is nice. Rebuild kits for either set are cheap.

Here is a link to my build thread on here from when I did the 4-link.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2986536-post394.html


Here is a write up I did regarding 4-link suspension. Has some good stuff if you want to learn more about linked suspension geometry and what things mean and some basic info on how to set things up. I never got around to finishing it, but I keep adding more to the first post every few months.
4-Link Tech | IFS OFFROAD

VernySanders said:
How many miles do these joints have on them by now? They seem to last forever if they're still being used. (I know they're "rebuildable")
Click to expand...

I probably put close to 20k miles on them when I sold them to [MENTION=135317]rkntoy[/MENTION]. I replaced one upper bushing. I only ran one upper as well (made two uppers but only ran the upper passenger side). The bushing was getting worn out and I called MetalCloak and they said it was very unusual to have them get worn out like that, and must have been bad vulcanizing on that particular bushing. The rest of them were all in good shape when I sold them though.

Something else to consider is you'll have to drill out your link mounts to fit the 9/16" bolt instead of the 14mm bolts. I recommend you pick up some Ruff Stuff weld washers while you are at it. If you plan to wheel hard and smash the links, the links will hold up great but that energy will get transferred right into the link mounts and the bolt holes will get wallowed out in no time. Or get [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION]'s lower link mount reinforcements.
 
VernySanders said:
How many miles do these joints have on them by now? They seem to last forever if they're still being used. (I know they're "rebuildable")
Click to expand...

No idea how many miles, probably 8-9,000 at this point - lots of wheeling.

Just had them apart to service and they were in great shape still.
 
AssBurns said:
Yeah it definitely depends on application and functionality. If you plan to make things work the way DuroFlex joints need to be mounted, I would still highly recommend them. They are far superior to Johnny Joints in my opinion. Ballistic joints are great because they can be tightened as they start to wear out which is nice. Rebuild kits for either set are cheap.

Here is a link to my build thread on here from when I did the 4-link.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2986536-post394.html


Here is a write up I did regarding 4-link suspension. Has some good stuff if you want to learn more about linked suspension geometry and what things mean and some basic info on how to set things up. I never got around to finishing it, but I keep adding more to the first post every few months.
4-Link Tech | IFS OFFROAD



I probably put close to 20k miles on them when I sold them to [MENTION=135317]rkntoy[/MENTION]. I replaced one upper bushing. I only ran one upper as well (made two uppers but only ran the upper passenger side). The bushing was getting worn out and I called MetalCloak and they said it was very unusual to have them get worn out like that, and must have been bad vulcanizing on that particular bushing. The rest of them were all in good shape when I sold them though.

Something else to consider is you'll have to drill out your link mounts to fit the 9/16" bolt instead of the 14mm bolts. I recommend you pick up some Ruff Stuff weld washers while you are at it. If you plan to wheel hard and smash the links, the links will hold up great but that energy will get transferred right into the link mounts and the bolt holes will get wallowed out in no time. Or get [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION]'s lower link mount reinforcements.
Click to expand...

I had already contacted eimkeith for most of his products! I wanted to go with the bumper, but I had already pulled the trigger on a coastal setup and didnt do much thinking about the gas tank relocation before it was too late.. Last time I checked out the gas tank thread, people were really closing in on a "stock compatible" setup as far as the fuel level sensor working in conjunction with the stock gas gauge. That was a few weeks ago now. Looks like ill be the first with a coastal bumper to do the tank swap lol. I really love the fit and finish of that eimkeith bumper though, so I never know what I may do lol. I am also going to go with Marlins frame gusset kit as well. I like the way it all fits together. What kit did you use for your mounts / tv6 housing mount for the 4 link? I might just stick with stocker links and start ordering parts and researching the 4 link that would do wonders for me on the sand. No sense in building stock replacements only a couple months before doing a 4link. The more I think about it, I would like to link this year.

EDIT: BTW thankyou so far for all the info on the 4link setup. There is a myriad of information on the interwebs but finding tried and true info on the 3rd gen 4runner in particular is extremely hard to do
 
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