Anybody using a lock right locker on the front axle.

[Singtoe]

I wanted to know if anybody has expeirence with a lock right locker in the front axle of their 4runner.

Does it work well with ADD?

 

[JohnsD90]

Sorry i have IFS.

 

[cordrayj1]

sounds sketchy since you cannot select when its active.. i think im gonna save for a selectable for the front. arb looks like the only option.

 

[brian2sun]

You can do a Lockright in the front. When there isn't any power going to the ring and pinion (i.e. 2WD), you won't know it's there. Scuba over on YT has one in his Taco (same 7.5" front diff). He has manual hubs, but like I said, you won't feel it when you're in 2WD even with ADD. When you're in 4x4, it's always active. I went with ARB because I like to be in 4x4 and open/open on packed snow or ice and the ARB is a lot stronger unit. Another option is the Detriot TrueTrac LSD in the front. This isn't a full locker, but it's still provides a lot more traction than an open diff.

 

[J-money$$$]

Brian is right. It is good as long as your not one to mash the gas. It supposed to be crazy in the snow. I am planning on one real soon

 

[Singtoe]

So with the ADD, when the 4runner is in 2wd, the front diff doesn't turn under any kind of torque. Thus with the Lockright installed, it should let the truck drive on hard roads without ratcheting or clicking. Am I right?

I think the idea of a lockright make since, especially in snow and ice and make it fully capable of going any where.

 

[Pikeman]

Here is the reason most people decide against a full time locker in Snow and ICE. If there is any angle on the road and you break traction you will slide to the low side. If you have an Open diff and you break traction the one tire that isnt spinning will keep you in place or from sliding down the angle. This could be an off-camber section on a trail or just a high crowned road with parked cars or culvert on the low side. With a selectable you can be Open and then if you realy need it you can engage or if it starts to get you in trouble you can turn it off again.

 

[Singtoe]

I live in NC, and we get one snow storm a year, so Snow is not a concern.

But i just thought of an IDEA? How would this work- A Lincoln locker for the front diff.

With the ADD off, the steering should be like normal but when you engage 4wd, the add should lock the axles together with a locked front end.

Best of all, Lincoln lockers are next to free.

I imagine if your worried about drivetrain wear, one could do a manual hub on the passenger side thus when the hub is not engaged the diff won't spin along with the front drive shaft and tranfercase stuff.

And it comes to full circle with driving in the snow. Engage the 4wd (with the lincoln locker) and the unlocked passenger hub will let the truck drive in 3wd for control.

Just my two cents.

I know that the arb Locker is the way go but it is $1200 procedure and that is only a couple hundred dollars away from a supercharger.

 

[Pikeman]

But i just thought of an IDEA? How would this work- A Lincoln locker for the front diff.

Ok don't want to sound to harsh but not a good idea. To many forces acting against each other. To do either a spool or Lincoln Locker you have just as much or more labor involved then just doing a lock Right. Also the Lincoln if you get poor penetration or to much stress can now tear that weld and possibly have chunks of the gears come with it. Yes I am fully aware that the ARB becomes a spool when activated however you have a choice to when it is on.

Here is my 2 cents on set-ups and I am sure some will agree and others will not.
1. ARB selectable.(cost prohibitive for most)
2. Detroit LSD ( expensive and need to have gears set again like the ARB)
3. Lock-Right. (least expenisive locker and labor)

The lock right will allow some differentiation when turning but is still full time and I mentioned in my other post why some prefer not to have a full time up front. Due to the cost it is a real toss up between #'s 2 and 3.

 

[J-money$$$]

NEVER WELD A FRONT DIFF! BAD BAD BAD!!!

OR USE A SPOOL EITHER. You will barely be able to turn the wheels, actually its considered a bad idea even with a solid axle.

 

[brian2sun]

Yeah, unless you convert to manual hubs, a spool or welded diff won't ever let the tires turn at different speeds whether your in 2wd or 4wd. A lockright will still let the front ratchet around corners.

 

[Singtoe]

But i thought that the ADD disconnected the drivers axel from the differential.

So with a welded diff, when the ADD was disengaged, wouldn't the two front tires be able to rotate at different speeds?

 

[brian2sun]

With ADD disengaged, there is no power to the ring and pinion, but the tires still turn the diff because they are being pushed by the rear tires. The diff is totally locked together when you weld or (or spool it), whether it's is being turned passively or under power. A Lockright/Aussie (aka lunchbox locker) is desinged to "slip" or ratchet when power is not being applied to the ring and pinion.

 

[Singtoe]

i thought the ADD disconected the axle and not the pinion shaft.

So with it not engaged, the tires should be able to rotate independent of each other.

Am I wrong?

 

[brian2sun]

Well, I believe if you lift the whole front end off the ground and spin a tire, the other one spins the opposite way even when it's in 2wd. I'm not 100% certain now, you've made me 2nd guess this (which is good because we are all learning here). If the other tire does in fact spin the other way, then the diff will be locked whether it's passive or under power. If the opposite tire stays put, then you are correct and a welded/spooled diff will not have an affect on 2wd driving. I can't check for myself because my junk is in the shop.

 

[Hawkdog21]

Get an Aussie Locker, similar to lockrite, but much better IMO. Taco guys love them and.... I ran one for 2 years in the Front of my 96 on 35s, and I never had problems. So coming from someone who had one for 2 years with no problems, no breaks, nothing, it will work and you will love it.

BTW if you are from NC, you might be familiar with the late Tellico. I ran lower 2 (arguably one of the hardest if not the hardest trail in the South East back in the day) twice under my own power with the set up, no broken parts... if you know how to drive the front is plenty strong for the Aussie...