Anyone done the big three upgrade?

lowcel

lowcel

New member
I just ordered my big three upgrade and I was wondering if anyone has any tips for when I go to install it. Just taking a quick look at the alternator it doesn't look like an overly easy job.
 
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lowcel said:
Crap. That doesn't look fun at all.
Click to expand...

I looked into upgrading the entire cable harness. Thats not an easy feat. Running a secondary wiring harness is doable to the batteries. That's also the only way it's been done so far. a 270 alternator has been installed by someone on here. I don't have the name handy here (on my phone).

Okki
 
Okki said:
I looked into upgrading the entire cable harness. Thats not an easy feat. Running a secondary wiring harness is doable to the batteries. That's also the only way it's been done so far. a 270 alternator has been installed by someone on here. I don't have the name handy here (on my phone).

Okki
Click to expand...

Does the alternator not just have a place to connect the larger wires like on this alternator?

https://youtu.be/5E2Zuw03jCQ?t=30s
 
lowcel said:
Does the alternator not just have a place to connect the larger wires like on this alternator?

https://youtu.be/5E2Zuw03jCQ?t=30s
Click to expand...
From the alternator it goes to the fuse box bottom layer; the fuse box is pretty impossible to separate. You can run a larger wire straight to your auxiliary fuse panel, but the factory one has not yet successfully completed.

Upgrading the ground wire is a similar challenge in terms of where it runs.

A higher output alternator without appropriate wiring will not give you all the benefits you are looking for. Possibly running higher output over the standard harness may run it hotter than desired (think same principle as the wire in an old school light bulb).

Okki
 
lowcel said:
I just ordered my big three upgrade and I was wondering if anyone has any tips for when I go to install it. Just taking a quick look at the alternator it doesn't look like an overly easy job.
Click to expand...

Hi lowcel,

What size (amperes) alternator did you upgrade to; just curious?
 
lowcel said:
"...Just taking a quick look at the alternator it doesn't look like an overly easy job."
Click to expand...

Well, if you're looking at the job from a "'Design & Build' prospective then I can understand why you'd be somewhat apprehensive about diving in to this head-long... not a job for the casual week-end warrior! But, to approach it from a logical 'Nuts & Bolts' type task, there are literally 'NO WORRIES'! The idea is to provide an electrical path that can 'more than carry' the loads placed upon it by the vehicle's aftermarket accessories. To do that, you don't need to 'remove & replace' the factory wiring to increase the electrical system's load capacity. You only need to provide sufficient copper conduit to "Share" the additional load(s).

So we allow the Toyota engineered electrical system to continue to do it's job as it has been designed to do! As a matter of fact, we aren't even going to impose ANY additional loads atop of the assigned factory loads. All of the aftermarket equipment is going to have it's own Designated (fused) line service that runs from the battery to the new accessories, and then to the new ground lines which we will provide. We also will provide an auxiliary (fused optional) battery feed cable from the alternator directly to the battery 'for a quicker current (amperage) recovery'!

All this can be done using only three new (properly assessed) load sized cables! (1) Neg battery terminal to body; right next to the original ground cable. (2) Body to engine ground. And (3) HOT alternator B'term (output) to POS battery terminal. NOTE: You won't need to install an additional cable between the frame and body unless your aftermarket accessories are grounded to the frame; in which case you would add a properly sized ground cable! Here's a link to an electrical main cable upgrade that I did on my 2012 limited: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/1733906-post2.html ...hope you'll find this helpful!

rig, Happy Holidays!
 
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rigtec said:
Hi lowcel,

What size (amperes) alternator did you upgrade to; just curious?
Click to expand...

I'm not upgrading the alternator (yet). Just upgrading the wiring. I'm adding another amp to my system and plan to run 1/0 wire to the back of the vehicle.
 
rigtec said:
Well, if you're looking at the job from a "'Design & Build' prospective then I can understand why you'd be somewhat apprehensive about diving in to this head-long... not a job for the casual week-end warrior! But, to approach it from a logical 'Nuts & Bolts' type task, there are literally 'NO WORRIES'! The idea is to provide an electrical path that can 'more than carry' the loads placed upon it by the vehicle's aftermarket accessories. To do that, you don't need to 'remove & replace' the factory wiring to increase the electrical system's load capacity. You only need to provide sufficient copper conduit to "Share" the additional load(s).

So we allow the Toyota engineered electrical system to continue to do it's job as it has been designed to do! As a matter of fact, we aren't even going to impose ANY additional loads atop of the assigned factory loads. All of the aftermarket equipment is going to have it's on Designated (fused) line service that runs from the battery to the new accessories, and then to the new ground lines which we will provide. We also will provide an auxiliary (fused optional) battery feed cable from the alternator directly to the battery 'for a quicker current (amperage) recovery'!

All this can be done using only three new (properly accessed) load sized cables! (1) Neg battery terminal to body; right next to the original ground cable. (2) Body to engine ground. And (3) HOT alternator B'term (output) to POS battery terminal. NOTE: You won't need to install an additional cable between the frame and body unless your aftermarket accessories are grounded to the frame; in which case you would add a properly sized ground cable! Here's a link to an electrical main cable upgrade the I did on my 2012 limited: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/1733906-post2.html ...hope you'll find this helpful!

rig, Happy Holidays!
Click to expand...

Thank you very much for the informative reply. Looking at this image it appears that the only tough part of the job will be getting to the positive terminal on the alternator. Will I be able to do that without removing the alternator?

Also, what bolt did you use on the engine to ground it to the body?

rigtec-albums-%26quot%3Bgentilmen+prefer+redheads%26quot%3B-picture26784-all-cell-pix-june-2014-012.jpg
 
lowcel said:
"...Looking at this image it appears that the only tough part of the job will be getting to the positive terminal on the alternator. Will I be able to do that without removing the alternator?
Click to expand...

Yes, and very easily! Just use a 24 inch ratchet extension to make things a lot easier... I don't remember exactly but I think I used a 12 or 14mm socket to remove the B'term harness nut. Just remember to disconnect the battery GND term before you start! There's a plastic cover on the alternator B'term nut that lifts and snaps off. Just remove the nut, place your new cable eyelet on top of what's already there and then replace the nut. CAUTION: Be careful not to 'over tighten' the nut to prevent cracking the ceramic output terminal insulator that surrounds the terminal stud. If it breaks you'll be spending a substantial amount of time trying to remove that alternator; which is no small task!

Also, what bolt did you use on the engine to ground it to the body?
Click to expand...

I used the electrical wiring harness bracket that's adjacent to the main fuse/relay box:



...and that (18 inch?) cable runs from the engine to the fender here:



This job is very easy so don't get stressed lol! Keep us posted!

rig
 
Last edited:
rigtec said:
Yes, and very easily! Just use a 24 inch ratchet extension to make things a lot easier... I don't remember exactly but I think I used a 12 or 14mm socket to remove the B'term harness nut. Just remember to disconnect the battery GND term before you start! There's a plastic cover on the alternator B'term nut that lifts and snaps off. Just remove the nut, place your new cable eyelet on top of what's already there and then replace the nut. CAUTION: Be careful not to 'over tighten' the nut to prevent cracking the ceramic output terminal insulator that surrounds the terminal stud. If it breaks you'll be spending a substantial amount of time trying to remove that alternator; which is no small task!



I used the electrical wiring harness bracket that's adjacent to the main fuse/relay box:



...and that (18 inch?) cable runs from the engine to the fender here:



This job is very easy so don't get stressed lol! Keep us posted!

rig
Click to expand...

This post relieves so much stress. Thanks again for taking the time to help.
 
lowcel said:
Thank you. I have no idea why I couldn't see that on mine. I'll have to look again this evening.
Click to expand...

You couldn't see it because it's got a black plastic shroud covering it... just lift the cover and you'll see the alternator's B'term output stud.
 
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