Anyone have a Stoptech BBK for their 3rd gen???

[Mf Baker]

Does anyone have any experience with Stoptech or any other brands/methods of getting bigger brakes? And when i say bigger, i mean bigger than the Tundra 231mm swap.

Its still mindboggling to me that these have such small brakes. its even more mind boggling that a 2006 Tundra only has ~9" brake rotors . hell, my 96 accord wagon came with 11.2" rotors up front, STOCK!!! i now have a Brembo 13" BBK on there and love it. And the brakes are probably the most lacking part of this car.

Has anyone used the stoptech BBK's for the 3rd gen, either 319, 332 or 355? Any info is much appreciated! Cheers!

 

[Brilliant]

Racing the 4runner? Unless you are you going to be braking from 180-100mph repeatedly for hours you don't need one. BBKs are for racing (or for looks).

First question is can you skid your tires, assuming no ABS? If you can, you have enough clamp force to overcome your tire friction force. If you can skid your tires, then upgrading to more clamp force is going to do zip for you. If you want more stopping ability, less distance, upgrade your tires. If your front or rear is skidding early you can work to resize calipers appropriately. Its a lot easier to mix pad compounds to change bias though.

Fade can occur but is more due to pad compound. Typically pads will be designed to resit fade, but will have less cold stopping power, or they will have a lot of cold stop but less fade resistance. Pads compound fixes most issues and its also the cheapest solution.

Towing, downhill, well maybe you could use simply more thermal mass (Tundra brakes)

Keep in mind you can only optimize a braking system for 1 scenario. You cant optimize over all stopping situations. So will you optimize at 80%, 50%, 100% brake force? Why is this the case, because think about how the weight shifts in the car as it stops. The harder you brake, the more normal force is applied to the front due to the shift in weight balance. This weight balance shift is going to be a function of the vehicles CG, WB, height, dampers/coils, etc. When you optimize you want the front and rear brake force equal to the traction force available where your wheels are nearly skidding front and rear at the same time, say 95% of traction force. Traction force being a function of the tire compound and normal force on that wheel. Normal force is a function of how much clamp force (pedal) applied.... round and round you go.

You can imagine a scenario where you overbrake the avalilbe traction force on an axle before you reach anywhere near the avalible traction force on the other axle. This would create a premature skid of one of the axles and an increased stopping distance.