Anyone know anything about painting?

T4RNightHawk

T4RNightHawk

New member
Hey guys. I hit someone's mirror and at mave a mark on my front and rear fender. On top of that I have a horrible spot on my roof from where I tried to paint some rust with Duplicolor and it turned out horribly. I figured getting paint done is so expensive and I get enough bad scratches I might learn to do it myself and invest in a spray gun.

Im looking at a HVLP Gravity Feed Paint Gun 1.4 from automotivetouchup.com and was wondering if I need three guns for each type of paint or if one is fine. Also I was wondering how much paint I'd need to do both my rear and front fenders and if I need to sand it down to the plastic, prime them and repaint the whole thing or if I can just paint over them and reclearcoat them. The scratches don't go to the plastic as far as I can tell.
 
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Getting into painting can get somewhat expensive if done properly. Lots of guys actually have good success with the Harbor Freight purple gun...the one that costs about $15. You'll also need clean/dry air, so you'll need to invest in filters and piping. Here's a setup that's great for home use. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002PR8ZXK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage. Also best to run copper lines (at least 20 feet) in between the compressor and the filter, along with a valve, which allows moisture to be addressed properly. Read up on how to run the lines, it can be a bit complicated.

It's best to take the item down to bare plastic/metal and start from there. Using Kleen Strip aircraft paint stripper would be the best route. Use quality paints...check out a company called SPI. I'd think a quart of paint would be more than enough for 2 bumpers. I like to use textured finishes whenever possible to hide my lack of painting skills.

Painting is an art with a lot of variables that can make the final product turn out poorly. Humidity, dusty paint room, wrong air pressure, wrong spray pattern, etc, etc. Not trying to discourage you but your first few projects will probably come out kinda bad (mine did and I'm super OCD about doing everything correctly). Stick with it and it will eventually get easier...like riding a bike.
 
Pretty thing what the guy above said, but here one of the biggest companies and what we shoot at the dealership is PPG products. Good luck!!
 
wadle5 said:
Pretty thing what the guy above said, but here one of the biggest companies and what we shoot at the dealership is PPG products. Good luck!!
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Yea PPG is probably one of the most popular paint companies. But $$$.

And yes, prep is key. Proper wax/grease removers, microfibers, clean/ventilated paint booth, etc.
 
For any diy painter at home id say a 1.4 tip is to big. Your going to find it very challenging to not run the paint, 1.4 will pour the paint like a garden hose. Go with a 1.3, it'll will be more user friendly and more cost effective for what your going to be doing. You can use one gun from start to finish, just make sure you are cleaning it out really really well in between using the different materials.

I wouldn't strip all the paint off the fender flares, or the fenders or whatever it is you're repairing, that's the worst thing you could do as factory adhesion is the best adhesion available. In a professional setting you can match what the factory does for proper adhesion but at home it wouldn't be cost effective. To repair the marks you have, first try to polish or buff the marks off, if that doesn't work then get some 600grit wet dry sand paper and wet sand the mark off, then sand the entire panel with a grey scotch bright leaving no shiny spots to insure proper paint adhesion. You can then prime the spot, sand primer, spray base coat then clear coat.
 
Agreed 4gin007. Never strip to bare metal or plastic at home.

I have done many paint touch ups with both guns and rattle cans. If you use good products (NOT duplicolor, go to a real paint supplier) you can do a surprisingly good job with a rattle can. I have done many where only in the perfect light can you tell it's been touched up, and that can be fixed with a bit more clear and a wet sand, then a good wax. As said above, practice makes perfect.
 
T4RNightHawk said:
Hey guys. I hit someone's mirror and at mave a mark on my front and rear fender. On top of that I have a horrible spot on my roof from where I tried to paint some rust with Duplicolor and it turned out horribly.
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Did you clear coat it after the color paint? I have used duplicolor with success on my white truck but it doesn't have clear coat. When I had a red Land Cruiser I used paint from paintscratch.com which was great. A 20 year old red truck and the color matched perfectly.

IMHO you'll spend more to diy and might not get the results you want anyway. Sounds like paying someone might be a better/cheaper idea.

To your question - painting is easy, prep is time-consuming and unless you have a good dust-free place to paint it probably won't look that good.
 
Onefastchevy said:
Agreed 4gin007. Never strip to bare metal or plastic at home.
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I have an unfinished fender flare. Paint over rather than strip it? Or get it professionally stripped?

Onefastchevy said:
I have done many paint touch ups with both guns and rattle cans. If you use good products (NOT duplicolor, go to a real paint supplier) you can do a surprisingly good job with a rattle can. I have done many where only in the perfect light can you tell it's been touched up, and that can be fixed with a bit more clear and a wet sand, then a good wax. As said above, practice makes perfect.
Rattle can and a clearcoat and polish be okay than?
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If it's unfinished, as in nothing on it at all, you need a proper primer to seal it. And what type will depend on what paint you are using. If it is finished, but you don't know what type of paint is on it, I have had the best luck with a two part primer. They tend to be fairly non reactive with most other paints (if you mix the wrong types the paint underneath will "wrinkle" like you are using a chemical striper) and are available in a rattle can as well.

If you are planning on using a rattle can you should find an auto body paint supplier in your area. Most will do a custom can using your paint code. Use the matching primer and clear coat.

Ask at your paint store for advice on what product to use. There are many quality brands out there, none of which you will find at a "normal" parts store.
 
Picking up painting isn't something you just want to "try", like stated before its costly, and requires some skill, and a clean ... Very clean place, if you want it done right! ... I'd take it to professional, and try not hitting anything else lol ... Or why not submit to insurance, I know it might raise your premium a little, I know some insurance companies have accident forgiveness, which means pay the deductible and it's covered ... Idk about your situation though...
 
Onefastchevy said:
If it's unfinished, as in nothing on it at all, you need a proper primer to seal it. And what type will depend on what paint you are using. If it is finished, but you don't know what type of paint is on it, I have had the best luck with a two part primer. They tend to be fairly non reactive with most other paints (if you mix the wrong types the paint underneath will "wrinkle" like you are using a chemical striper) and are available in a rattle can as well.

If you are planning on using a rattle can you should find an auto body paint supplier in your area. Most will do a custom can using your paint code. Use the matching primer and clear coat.

Ask at your paint store for advice on what product to use. There are many quality brands out there, none of which you will find at a "normal" parts store.
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Not sure if its partially unfinished or not finished at well. It is matte black, it may have a coat of paint on it but not sure?

I was thinking of getting paint from Touch Up Paint and Accessories | AutomotiveTouchup , local paint store better?

Since not entirely sure, best bet two part primer?
 
Ahh, so it is a new panel. The black is something called ecoat.
The ecoat is only designed to stop the rust from forming before the panel is primed and painted. Scuff the ecoat, prime it with epoxy primer, then a high build primer (only needed if there are small chips or dings on it, if it looks like new skip the high build), sand and paint.

Ecoat is the best adhesion to metal you can get, as it is electrically adhered to the metal right after it is stamped. So don't sand through it, just use a 3M scuff pad, you only need to get the shine off of it.

I can't say I have ever used that company, so I can't really comment on their products.
 
The advantage of a local store is advice. They will have received feedback on what works and what doesn't. Most guys are happy to point you in the right direction. Just my humble opinion.

Many manufacturers make a good two part primer. But if you have a new black panel you don't need it. Just a normal epoxy primer.
 
Onefastchevy said:
Ahh, so it is a new panel. The black is something called ecoat.
The ecoat is only designed to stop the rust from forming before the panel is primed and painted. Scuff the ecoat, prime it with epoxy primer, then a high build primer (only needed if there are small chips or dings on it, if it looks like new skip the high build), sand and paint.

Ecoat is the best adhesion to metal you can get, as it is electrically adhered to the metal right after it is stamped. So don't sand through it, just use a 3M scuff pad, you only need to get the shine off of it.

I can't say I have ever used that company, so I can't really comment on their products.
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The fender flares feel like plastic, still might be ecoat?
 
How bad is the damage? Upload a pic.

I've done small touch-ups, where as I bought the identical paint from Amazon and went about it that way. But they were just chips and what not.

Til my buddy put a hole in the side being stupid and drunk, so that took some bondo'ing. Primed that with as close to a color match as I could find, then painted over with a dabbing technique and a house hold tool. Lol, I could care less as of now because I'm about to cover it with a nice decal. And eventually raptor line the whole thing so I'm not worried. Did the job for me, saved an expensive trip but come to think of it I could've/shouldve done it a lot better. Oh well
 
A good way to test if something is bare plastic or is primed, is to sand a trial spot on the bottom of the panel w sand paper and if the paper has black on it that's the primer on the sand paper.

If it has primer on it sand w a red scotch brite pad clean w wax and grease remover and paint.

If it is bare plastic you have to clean it w soap and water then you can heat it up by putting it in the hot sun to get the mold release agents removed, wash again w soap and water, sand it w gray scotch Brite pad, clean w plastic cleaner, tac off dust, spray epoxy primer sealer w flex agent mixed in then you can put on color once the epoxy primer has dried for the correct time.

Bare plastic is quite a process it would be cheaper for you to have a body shop do it than to worry about all those steps
 
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