meeceboy78
New member
this is so rad. you are doing some good work! keep it up
Anyone recognize this 4Runner?
- Thread starter willyd520
- Start date
It's nice to see I'm not the only creep who looks for their old vehicles. I have pretty much tried to find every vehicle I ever sold because they were all pretty rare and I kicked myself for selling them. The last one was a 95 standard cab V6 Tacoma, but sadly I found out it was crushed.
Glad to see you were able to find yours, although these days with the Internet it's pretty easy.
Glad to see you were able to find yours, although these days with the Internet it's pretty easy.
Endlessblockades
Senior Member
I know folks are reluctant to speak about homemade immobilizer schemes in public, but if anyone wants to PM me a link or diagram, I'm all ears!
jbtvt
New member
Any hidden on/off switch for something required to start would do it. Fuel pump seems to be most common although can be easier to access and therefore bypass than some circuits. I read about one guy who had a fuel kill switch and his 4runner was still stolen, want to say it happened while he was shopping even. Other option would be starter relay wire, park/neutral switch, clutch switch, or you can just pull the efu or starter relay
Endlessblockades
Senior Member
Thank you! Another forum member have me a couple of good ideas, too.
willyd520
New member
I've got the best theft prevention in the world - it's a manual!! :biggrin1:
willyd520
New member
Haven't done much to the old Runner since I got the front end sorted out. I ended up replacing the Cragar steel wheels with a set of used Pro Comp alloys - just didn't like the way they looked.
I also installed a Scangauge II with a Spiker Engineering mount to help monitor the coolant temp and voltage which I would honestly recommend to anybody. It's a tad on the expensive side but I've found it to be very reliable and an excellent scan tool if any check engine codes come up.
In bigger news, I just completed a two day trip up to Flagstaff with a bunch of other rigs and had an awesome time! Camped the first night in the Cinders OHV area which is northeast of Flagstaff.
Then we hit the highway to camp off of the Colorado River at the end of Diamond Creek Road - in the Grand Canyon!
I also installed a Scangauge II with a Spiker Engineering mount to help monitor the coolant temp and voltage which I would honestly recommend to anybody. It's a tad on the expensive side but I've found it to be very reliable and an excellent scan tool if any check engine codes come up.
In bigger news, I just completed a two day trip up to Flagstaff with a bunch of other rigs and had an awesome time! Camped the first night in the Cinders OHV area which is northeast of Flagstaff.
Then we hit the highway to camp off of the Colorado River at the end of Diamond Creek Road - in the Grand Canyon!
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willyd520
New member
On my way up to the Grand Canyon a few weeks ago - my A/C stopped working right outside of Phoenix. I was finally able to set some time aside to diagnose it and fix it this weekend.
Hooked up my new A/C gauges and the high side reading was unbelievably high – hanging around 400 PSI. Normal operation should be around 150-250 so this indicated I either had a blockage in the system or my expansion valve had failed. Given the fact that my A/C was intermittent beforehand I had a sneaking suspicion that my expansion valve had failed.
Ultimately though, at 234k miles I decided to buy once cry once and get the whole system replaced. I bought a new Denso compressor, condenser & expansion valve along with a Dayco Idler pulley, A/C Delco Drier & a Murray evaporator. (Would’ve gone Denso on both of these but was short on time). Started disassembly on Saturday morning and would’ve been done that day had Amazon delivered my compressor on time. Nonetheless I got it on Sunday and wrapped it up. Here’s a few pics documenting my install:
Pulling the evaporator:
Man that thing was gross! Good thing I was replacing it anyway. Here's the failed expansion valve, along with the rusty bolts connecting it to the evaporator. I cleaned them up with a wire wheel before installing.
New condenser & drier
I don't have any pictures of installing the compressor, but I found it really easy to remove. Everywhere I read online said you should remove the PS pump to get to it. I'm happy to report that you do NOT have to remove the PS pump! Disconnect your transmission cooling lines (don't have any since I have a manual) and remove the two 12mm bolts holding the power steering hard lines in place. Once you've done that the compressor can come right out the bottom. This made the removal/install much easier.
All in all the job was not very difficult at all and the results are fantastic - my truck now has a alternative use as a freezer.
Hooked up my new A/C gauges and the high side reading was unbelievably high – hanging around 400 PSI. Normal operation should be around 150-250 so this indicated I either had a blockage in the system or my expansion valve had failed. Given the fact that my A/C was intermittent beforehand I had a sneaking suspicion that my expansion valve had failed.
Ultimately though, at 234k miles I decided to buy once cry once and get the whole system replaced. I bought a new Denso compressor, condenser & expansion valve along with a Dayco Idler pulley, A/C Delco Drier & a Murray evaporator. (Would’ve gone Denso on both of these but was short on time). Started disassembly on Saturday morning and would’ve been done that day had Amazon delivered my compressor on time. Nonetheless I got it on Sunday and wrapped it up. Here’s a few pics documenting my install:
Pulling the evaporator:
Man that thing was gross! Good thing I was replacing it anyway. Here's the failed expansion valve, along with the rusty bolts connecting it to the evaporator. I cleaned them up with a wire wheel before installing.
New condenser & drier
I don't have any pictures of installing the compressor, but I found it really easy to remove. Everywhere I read online said you should remove the PS pump to get to it. I'm happy to report that you do NOT have to remove the PS pump! Disconnect your transmission cooling lines (don't have any since I have a manual) and remove the two 12mm bolts holding the power steering hard lines in place. Once you've done that the compressor can come right out the bottom. This made the removal/install much easier.
All in all the job was not very difficult at all and the results are fantastic - my truck now has a alternative use as a freezer.
willyd520
New member
Now that the A/C is buttoned up I'm starting to focus my efforts on the interior again. The old leather steering wheel has been disintegrating from the sun long before I sold it and it was time to get it replaced. Definitely feels weird having a new one on there but way overdue!
Before:
After:
It feels like a brand new car again! I still need to buy a new middle console lid (which is still available from Toyota) and some new center air vents as one of mine is busted.
Before:
After:
It feels like a brand new car again! I still need to buy a new middle console lid (which is still available from Toyota) and some new center air vents as one of mine is busted.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Was it brand new or just new to you from another 4Runner? I wasn't aware that steering wheels were still available as a replacement part from Toyota. If it was, could I ask what the cost was?
willyd520
New member
It was new to me! Unfortunately Toyota has long discontinued OEM steering wheels.
I've been looking for a nice leather wrapped wheel for a while, finally found this one on eBay and got it for $80.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Whoa, I feel like I just read the same on another posts forum lol
I've become fond of wrapping the stock steering wheel if it's not chewed up already myself. A leather wrap and lace kit on Amazon is like $10 and honestly looks and feels great.
There are OEM type wrap kits from Japan that cost closer to $100 and are more work if you want the factory lol and feel. I've gotten used to the thicker, DIY wrapped wheel.
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
I've become fond of wrapping the stock steering wheel if it's not chewed up already myself. A leather wrap and lace kit on Amazon is like $10 and honestly looks and feels great.
There are OEM type wrap kits from Japan that cost closer to $100 and are more work if you want the factory lol and feel. I've gotten used to the thicker, DIY wrapped wheel.
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
willyd520
New member
You got to live the reunion in real world time!! Even though the other post has way more info.
I'm keeping my OEM wheel in case I decide to have it re-done down the road! I've already removed almost all of the leather so she's ready to roll.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Nice. What does the shifter kit do for a person?
I'm expecting my 1-in body lift will shorten my shifter for me without a machine shop
I'm expecting my 1-in body lift will shorten my shifter for me without a machine shop
willyd520
New member
Sorry for the late reply on this, better late than never I guess lol.
I can shift faster and the shifts feel much notchier and firm. Well worth the investment IMO.