Are bigger brakes really worth it?

M

Morphyne

New member
I am in the market for rotors and pads. I have an sr5 and I was convinced the sport rotors or the 5th gen rotors would be better. But on shear stopping power how can a bigger rotor perform any better than the smaller one when they use the same sized pads? I resize heat dissipation and all that but for a daily driver I would think that the extra rotating mass would detract from the stopping power of the brakes.


Thoughts?
 
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One question - are you unhappy with your brakes? I'm not and never found a reason to change. My impression is that folks who have seized calipers change for that reason.
 
Larger brakes don't provide better braking just better heat dissipation to reduce warped rotors.

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No I am not. I don't think. Except that one time I could stop and I hit a tundra.


But really it is just the whole bigger and newer is better. And I am now not convinced that is the case or at the very least the mod is worth the effort
 
Well I realize that 5th gen brake upgrade or sport rotor upgrade includes changing the calipers.


I am just realizing that in order to do this you need different rotors and calipers but use the same pads. With the issue of either cutting on the dust sheild or bendi ng it or replacing it I don't think this upgrade is worth the effort
 
trickbiker121 said:
Larger brakes don't provide better braking just better heat dissipation to reduce warped rotors.

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Click to expand...

Thicker and/or larger rotor means greater surface area...which means greater convective heat transfer (rotor to air)..cooler rotors can be advantageous

Larger Pistons in the 5th gen calipers mean a greater force applied to the rotor for the same petal press..see figure

Pistons placed further from center of rotor means more stopping force..torque=force*distance...like using a larger wrench to break a bolt

Class dismissed...don't forget to do your HW!
 

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That being said ^
I wouldn't buy the larger 5th gen setup for their greater stopping power...since you're spending a lot of money for a small benefit, but for their calipers that supposedly don't seize as much..fingers crossed..the verdict is still out lol
 
jfry008 said:
Thicker and/or larger rotor means greater surface area...which means greater convective heat transfer (rotor to air)..cooler rotors can be advantageous

Larger Pistons in the 5th gen calipers mean a greater force applied to the rotor for the same petal press..see figure

Pistons placed further from center of rotor means more stopping force..torque=force*distance...like using a larger wrench to break a bolt

Class dismissed...don't forget to do your HW!
Click to expand...

I'm curious how much of a difference in force you'd see by increasing the piston diameter 2~3mm? Since basically everything else in the system will be relatively the same save for that?
 
BlackWorksInc said:
I'm curious how much of a difference in force you'd see by increasing the piston diameter 2~3mm? Since basically everything else in the system will be relatively the same save for that?
Click to expand...

Very little I would guess..but that combined with the greater moment arm and cooling capacity give it a poor man's big brake kit appeal. I'm weighing my options now since my rotors are just about shot.
Heard of any 5th gen seized rotors in the field yet?
 
What is the price difference between 4th gen stock vs 5th gen stock? From my research awhile back it didn't seem like much for a caliper that so far doesn't have seizing issues but I have not looked recently.
 
YES! Bigger brakes will help, but at a cost.
IF we prep and service our brake systems properly, our 4th gens actually have a great factory brake system when used with OEM parts. With that being said, there is always room for improvement if needed. I have improved the factory system by using HAWK 5.0 pads for the front, and HAWK HPS pads for the rear. Im using Powerslot Slotted rotors made by Centric. I flush my fluid from time to time. I guarantee, my system will stop shorter, and do it over and over again compared to the already good OEM factory pads. Cold bite for when you are driving down the street and little Johnny runs out from behind a parked car is better than any ceramic and factory pad. I guarantee results if you do everything 100% correct during the install and break in period. Now, not everyone needs this better system. But, if anyone out there is lifted, has bigger tires, bumpers, roof racks, gear inside, full fuel and drives aggressively and fast on or off road, then my package is for you! Add steel braided brake lines, and you will be amazed. I know what I know!
 
You'll feel a bigger improvement in braking with new fluid and some quality pads than going between the WG WH or 5th gen calipers and diameter rotors. As mentioned above a few times, if yours a seized and you need to buy new calipers anyway then why not. If you ever tow, build lots of heat down mountains, or drive it like a sports car on the weekends it's just piece of mind that you have the most you can without buying a full out big brake conversion.
 
For what it's worth, I did the 5th gen upgrade on the front brakes of my previous truck along with braided stainless brake lines at all four corners. For two weeks I had it and my current truck in the driveway and had a chance to drive them back to back. While it wasn't an astronomical difference, upgrading to the 5th gen parts did make a noticeable difference. If you are currently dealing with frozen calipers, upgrading to the 5th gen parts for pretty much the same money is definitely a worthwhile upgrade.
 
Ok well since I have the attention of some hard core brake afficionados. I just replaced my pads and rotors (stock size) and I was curious about brake bed in. Is this necessary? The process I am aware of is the 60-20 mph stops, 8-10 times. Does that sound right?
 
Morphyne said:
Ok well since I have the attention of some hard core brake afficionados. I just replaced my pads and rotors (stock size) and I was curious about brake bed in. Is this necessary? The process I am aware of is the 60-20 mph stops, 8-10 times. Does that sound right?
Click to expand...

Whenever I have replaced pads and rotors, I have done the bed in procedure you mentioned. Here is a short write up describing why.

Brake Tech Information - Brake Pad & Rotor Bed-In Procedures
 
Ok so I replaced my rotors and pads with the best that autozone had to sell. Which I might add, those Duralast Gold black painted rotors are cool!

Anyway I started with the rears and ended with the drivers front and at that time I found out that the shaking was coming from a frozen ciper. These calipers are one year old!

Anyway, I did the bed in process and holy smokes that was a lot of smoke coming off of those coated rotors. But she drives like a dream again.
 
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