Argh! Ready to go, and suddenly won't start!

[Bmerr98]

Got it back together yesterday, loaded it on the trailer and then the rain set in. This morning I got up, tied it down, started it up and let it run a few minutes while I checked everything pre trip. Shut it off, checked tire pressure etc, went to start one more time and it cranks but won't start.WTFT?!?!

Fuel guage is inop, so I put some gas in, thinking maybe it was empty, but still no start.

 

[Bmerr98]

No CEL, has fuel at the banjo fitting and at the fuel pressure regulator. My troubleshooting skills are less than good. I just don't get it. It was running, I shut it off, went to start again and it won't start.

Worst of it is, I had the hard part done - the wife was ready to go.

 

[Bmerr98]

Ok, keep it simple. Fuel, air and spark. Fuel seems good, there's plenty of air outside and the filter is decent, not to mention it was running fine earlier. Gotta be spark. Will check coil.

Trying to remember if I may have moved some wires when I checked the oil, you know how the dipstick is kinda down by the distributor cap, I might have a bad connection in there, which if bumped the wrong way...

I'm probably making this harder than it has to be. I'm good for that now and then.

 

[grousehunter 61]

Wish I could help as you did me, but not enough experience to make a guess.

 

[Bmerr98]

I searched around and checked ign fuse #10 and the EFI relay. Both seem to be in order. Too cold to fool with it any more, so I curled up with the wife. Guess the ECU is next to check.

To make matters worse, it's on my trailer, so extra hard to work on. I swear, it started and ran like always this morning, the I checked one more time and no start.

 

[RAD4Runner]

Ok, keep it simple....Gotta be spark....

... so check for spark first. Google how to check for spark.

 

[Bmerr98]

I put a spark tester in line on one spark plug, cranked and got no spark. I noticed that there is no MIL even with key on engine off, also.

 

[Bmerr98]

Ok, new day, fresh eyes on target.

Checked fuses. Except for a few that are higher amps than what's called for, they're all good. I have power to both wires going to the coil, but no light (test light) when cranking.

Bad coil? The obvious answer would be "yes", but if anyone would like to confirm, I'd be ok with that.

 

[Bmerr98]

Having checked the FSM one of the members here provided a link for, I believe my ignition coil is bad. Primary coil resistance is supposed to be like 0.3-0.6 ohms, mine is about 12.6 ohms. FSM says replace ignition coil. Probably do that next weekend. Will update.

 

[morganism]

Did you try tapping the starter solenoid with a broom handle or the jack handle ?

This is usually the connecting wires between the alternator and the engine compartment fuse box. Be careful with the connection on bottom of fuse box, it is very prone to breakage.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199/rad4runners-1986-4runner-dlx-build-up-252300/#post51947160

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/94-delayed-cranking-starter-ignition-switch-or-other.987114/

 

[RAD4Runner]

Did you try tapping the starter solenoid with a broom handle or the jack handle ?

Thanks but O.P. says...

... it cranks but won't start....

 

[Bmerr98]

Well, on a whim I charged my battery and hit the key - fired right up! Let it idle for a bit while I aired up a leaky tire, and as I was pulling it back onto the driveway it died again. Would start and run for a second and quit. Then it would idle, but when I eased the clutch out it would quit, and now we're back to cranking but not starting.

In between all this I've been checking resistance at the coil etc. Probably a loose wire somewhere. At least I haven't bought any parts yet.

Then again, primary coil resistance is out of range, and the FSM says replace coil...that's what I'll do.

 

[RAD4Runner]

...Primary coil resistance is supposed to be like 0.3-0.6 ohms, mine is about 12.6 ohms. FSM says replace ignition coil. ...

...
Then again, primary coil resistance is out of range, and the FSM says replace coil...that's what I'll do.

I think you've done your homework as and your test and diagnosis agrees with the good book, so it's safe to say the coil needs replacement.

 

[Bmerr98]

Got the new coil in, checked resistance right out of the box and it's the same as the old one. Went ahead and replaced the coil anyway, and still cranks but won't start. More to follow...

 

[Bmerr98]

I must have a loose connection somewhere. I piddled with it today, going thru the FSM on vehicle diagnostic checks, checking and replacing fuses etc. Pulled the distributor cap and checked air gap and resistance, everything looked to be in specs. Put it all back together and hit the key and it fired right up. Took it for a short test drive and it all worked. Not sure where my bad connection is, but I suspect the connector for the MAF (or Toyota 3.0 equivalent). The plastic has a few spots missing and the little wire thing that secures it is long gone, so it just plugs in and there it is.

So, at least for the moment I'm back in action, waiting for free time and decent weather.

 

[Bmerr98]

Another suspect area for a bad connection is under the dash. Looks like a PO used a hatchet to wire for lights, stereo or CB at some point. A week or so ago when it ran for a short time and then quit it seemed like it cut out when I depressed the clutch, maybe moving a wire or something. That was another area I looked at yesterday, and I did move a few things around when I was checking fuses etc. There are a couple black boxes under there that were just hanging and I tucked them up so they wouldn't be disturbed it get in the way of big feet.

Idk...it works for now, but I'll have to solve the mystery eventually.

 

[giro]

Sounds strange.

In the FSM, there's a good troubleshooting chart in the Engine Mechanical section. On my '92 books, it's page EM-81 for the 3.0.

There's a section for "Starter runs - engine does not crank", giving Starter or Flywheel or Drive Plate as the choices. I really can't remember if when my starter gave out if it made any noise (i.e. running but not cranking the engine) or what. But the Starter is one of the few things known to give out early on these. It's the only non-suspension or exhaust part I have had to change.

The "no initial combustion" section's top 2 are Distributor or Ignition Circuit.

I wouldn't think your problem would be from remnants of an alarm, but both of my 4runners had parts of aftermarket alarms on them. With the '98, on a no-start issue that sprung up after pulling over to answer a call, I removed all alarm parts I could find. In the end, it was a main fuse or link that came just a tiny bit loose, and re-seating it fixed it. But with that, there was no cranking at all.

(Though if you still have no spark sometimes, maybe there's a fuse or link for that system that is separate from your other electrical stuff....check that before pulling out too much hair)

Good luck