At 60 mph my truck vibrates. Help.
- Thread starter haddix
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J-money$$$
New member
how high is your lift
i have a 2.5 inch lift on my runner
and i have experianced this too it could be the driveshaft because its at a steeper angle
i have a 2.5 inch lift on my runner
and i have experianced this too it could be the driveshaft because its at a steeper angle
J-money$$$
New member
mine was really bad too but i have adjustable front coilovers from SAW and i lowed them and now that vibration seems to be gone ??? idk
I too have had this problem!!!!! One thought was when i took the coilovers to the tire shop to get compressed for the spacers, the top plate with the bolts wasn't perfectly aligned with the bottom strut mount. I kinda had to twist and turn to get it properly installed. But i don't think that would cause the dreaded shudder.
cooljello6233
New member
i just put on my 3 inch toytec lift (front spacers rear 890 coils with rear billstien shock) on my 98 4runner and ive gone up to 70 with no vibration yet, but i have my stock 265/70/r16 tires on so ill tell yall what happens when i put my 285/75/16 cooper stt's
DavidAlexander
New member
Its resonance in the drivetrain.
Def: Enhancement of a mechanical system to a periodic driving force when the driving frequency is equal to the natural undamped frequency of the system.
This means that the speed your traveling, the torque your giving, the amount your joints are worn and the length of your driveshaft is perfectly matching the frequency that the stock setup could not dampen.
Mine did this for about a month or two after I installed my lift (at 60mph) and then one day it just dissappeared, never to happen again.
There is a spider joint at each end of the rear propeller shaft. You could replace the spiders and spider bearings and see if that eliminates the vibration that is caused at that speed. Next would be the rear driveshaft too.
Def: Enhancement of a mechanical system to a periodic driving force when the driving frequency is equal to the natural undamped frequency of the system.
This means that the speed your traveling, the torque your giving, the amount your joints are worn and the length of your driveshaft is perfectly matching the frequency that the stock setup could not dampen.
Mine did this for about a month or two after I installed my lift (at 60mph) and then one day it just dissappeared, never to happen again.
There is a spider joint at each end of the rear propeller shaft. You could replace the spiders and spider bearings and see if that eliminates the vibration that is caused at that speed. Next would be the rear driveshaft too.
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it might be your driveshaft or U joints...
i had to dig this out...
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?s=&postid=151233#post151233
if the link doesn't work try this...
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?threadid=12401&goto=newpost
i had to dig this out...
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?s=&postid=151233#post151233
if the link doesn't work try this...
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?threadid=12401&goto=newpost
cooljello6233
New member
earlier i said that i would tell yall what happens when i would put on my cooper stt's to see if i would experiance any vibration above 60mph and i did not encounter any vibration of any sort. its just like stock. so i dont know what it could be haddix, i mean we basically have the same setup.
legokcen
Member
Vibration could be coming from drivetrain angle. Here's a link:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Driveline-101.shtml
could be the rpm vs angle
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Driveline-101.shtml
could be the rpm vs angle
DavidAlexander
New member
legokcen said:
Yep, Roger knows what he is talking about. Like I said earlier, it is the resonance in the rear driveshaft. The angle, length, and torque are making you feel vibration at that speed.
DavidAlexander
New member
Just found this in my Toyota repair manual and if made me remember this thread.
Test for Driveshaft vibration:
1. Drive vehicle and note engine speed at which the vibration is the most pronounced. Now shift into another gear and bring the engine to the same speed (rpm).
2. If the vibration occurs at the same engine speed regardless of what gear the transmission is in, the driveshaft is NOT at fault.
3. If vibration decreases or is eliminated when shifted into another gear at the same engine speeds, refer to the following.
4.Bent or dented driveshaft. Inspect and replace as necessary.
5. Undercoating or built up dirt, etc. on the driveshaft. Clean shaft thoroughly.
6. Worn Universal joint bearings. Replace the U-joints or driveshaft as necessary.
7. Driveshaft and/or companion flange out of balance. Check for missing weights on the shaft. Remove driveshaft and reinstall 180 degrees from original position, then recheck. Have driveshaft balanced if problem persists.
8. Loose driveshaft mounting bolts/nuts.
9. Defective center bearing, if so equpped.
10. Worn transmission rear bushing.
The lift will put extra strain and place parts in new postions that they have not been in consistently during the life of the car. I would just go through all the things on this list, starting with the cheapest and easiest. The problem should be fixable. You probably just exaggerated the unnoticeable little problems you had previously by installing the lift.
Test for Driveshaft vibration:
1. Drive vehicle and note engine speed at which the vibration is the most pronounced. Now shift into another gear and bring the engine to the same speed (rpm).
2. If the vibration occurs at the same engine speed regardless of what gear the transmission is in, the driveshaft is NOT at fault.
3. If vibration decreases or is eliminated when shifted into another gear at the same engine speeds, refer to the following.
4.Bent or dented driveshaft. Inspect and replace as necessary.
5. Undercoating or built up dirt, etc. on the driveshaft. Clean shaft thoroughly.
6. Worn Universal joint bearings. Replace the U-joints or driveshaft as necessary.
7. Driveshaft and/or companion flange out of balance. Check for missing weights on the shaft. Remove driveshaft and reinstall 180 degrees from original position, then recheck. Have driveshaft balanced if problem persists.
8. Loose driveshaft mounting bolts/nuts.
9. Defective center bearing, if so equpped.
10. Worn transmission rear bushing.
The lift will put extra strain and place parts in new postions that they have not been in consistently during the life of the car. I would just go through all the things on this list, starting with the cheapest and easiest. The problem should be fixable. You probably just exaggerated the unnoticeable little problems you had previously by installing the lift.
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DavidAlexander
New member
haddix said:
You want to drive on the highway and look at your tach when the vibration is at the worst.
Then when you are on a side street, put it in 2 and go the same rpm's on your tach.
If the vibration occurs, it is not the driveshaft. If it only happens when you are going 60ish mph on the highway or almost goes away in 2 at the same rpm, then it is somewhere in the driveline.
You'll have to go down the list and inspect, repair and/or replace until the problem goes away.
From what you are saying and the fact it happened right after your lift makes it sound like you should look to the driveline. Do the rpm test to make sure. You want to spin the driveshaft at different speeds at the same rpm to confirm.
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