Audio Gurus- Help a guy out?

[JKLNHYD]

I'm slowly upgrading my non-JBL speakers and I need some advice on a couple things. Here's what my plan is thus far:

-Keeping the stock head unit for now. I plan to upgrade it in the future but I've not decided what unit I want or some of the features I'm looking for. I'm not looking for a huge, expensive system with big subs. I just want cleaner, more balanced sound, especially at higher volumes.

-I swapped out my dash speakers already. These made a noticable difference! I used 3.5" Rockford Fosgate P132 (2-way Coax, 20W RMS/40W Peak, 120hz-22kHz) and added a bass blocker capacitor (BB-133, 300hz @4ohm). I'm beginning to think I may have chosen the incorrect bass blocker for this speaker so any feedback is appreciated.

-I also have Rockford Fosgate P1692 (6x9, 2-way Coax, 75W RMS/150W Peak, 60Hz-22kHz) front door speakers but have yet to install them.

I plan to use the Rockford Fosgate P1650 (6.5", 2-way Coax, 55W RMS/110W Peak, 45Hz-20kHz) for the back doors and rear hatch.

If I choose to put an amp on the system at a later date, these speakers should handle it provided I don't go huge. I would also expect I'd need a crossover at that point to dial everything in.

What's everyone's thoughts?

 

[llDemonll]

coaxial speakers shouldnt be installed in the doors. that's too low of placement for tweeters. woofers only in doors, if you want tweeters they should be in the dash, not the 3.5" speakers.

 

[JKLNHYD]

Thanks for the reply Demon!

The 3.5" speaker does have a tweeter and crossover built in. And the front speakers are described as factory replacement drivers. I do agree about the rear door and tailgate speakers though; I did change up which ones I will get. I switched to a straight mid-range speaker for those.

 

[rc10mike]

Seems like you have a good plan in mind, but I dont think you will get the results you are looking for.

By simply upgrading the speakers, you wont get much improvement. Stock speakers are designed to work well with the relatively low power output of the stock head unit.

Speakers have efficiency ratings. Stock speakers are VERY efficient. Meaning they can get loud with very little power provided by the stock HU. The problem is stock speakers only usually sound good at low volume but cant maintain low distortion levels when pushed to a higher volume.

Aftermarket speakers like yours (higher RMS) are LESS efficient than the stock speakers, meaning that at low volumes they may appear to sound better, but the stock HU simply cannot push them to their full potential. Distortion will appear at higher volumes because the stock HU cant provide what the aftermarket speakers actually need.

Car audio is very subjective. What sounds good to you might sound like crap to me. If you want better sound with aftermarket speakers, at the bare minimum you need to have an aftermarket amplifier for aftermarket speakers to get the full potential. Then you have active and passive, time alignment, independent EQ, sound stage....the car audio world gets crazy.

 

[pableaux]

I have an "add a sub" harness from Tacotunes if you're interested.

 

[JKLNHYD]

First ditch the bass blocker.

You have a few options to amplify.

If you JUST replace just the speakers, it will probably be less loud overall, and sound worse at higher volumes. Those speakers need more power, which means you'll turn the volume up, the higher volume (over 45) will incur more distortion.

After replacing the speakers, you could do an inline type amp (alpine and rockford make some) that are about 45wx4 that are really tiny and are a great way to just get more power from the head units signal. But its only 4x so you'd loose the hatch speakers (they don't do much anyway unless the hatch is open and you're under it)

All the speakers you listed have built in crossovers. You don't need any externals unless you were doing component speakers or if you did an eq that had those options (like and ms8)

You don't need a new head unit unless you want the new features (carplay/android auto) or a better eq, or a more control if you were adding a sub and traditional 4 channel amp. The new headunits power will probably be 15 to 20w the stock is about 10? So its not going to do a whole lot by itself with those speakers.


Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Great info! Thank you!

Would it be worth it to run two small amps to avoid losing the tailgate speakers? And is there room for small ones behind the head unit or should I plan on putting under the seats?

 

[97BlackAckCL]

There is definitely not room behind the head unit for amps. I fit a class D under my front passenger side seat with no issue

 

[1jzgte]

return all that and go with these:

4runner - OEM Audio Plus

pricey but its already tuned plus you can retain OEM headunit

you can slap new speakers new amps new headunit and at the end of the day you'll wanna pull your hair out because it still sounds like ass...

 

[4rNCMTNs]

I agree about no room for an amp behind the head unit. No issue as said for a class D under seat or many under center console. I have a class AB install under driver seat and goes from rail to rail and I also had to change location of some of the sensors/ motors under the seat due the height of the amp. If you're feeding speakers in the rear doors or hatch you could look at putting a small class D on top of wheel well too. this would make running wires maybe a little easier.

As others said putting a tweeter only in dash and midrange driver in front doors is the best way to go. this is what i've done and bi-amped them. overkill for sure, but it definitely sounds good.