Audio Guys i Need your help

Mitchc4216

New member
Ok 2002 4runner Limited. blah blah blah

Im getting ready to say goodbye to the factory 4 speaker system and put in all new polk or infinity speakers and tweeters. Now i know that the Front Speakers are 6 1/2 and the rears are 4 but can be modded, I dont plan on modding it. My question to the audio tech people is. What size are the STOCK tweeters? Do they just go by diameter?

Thanks
Mitch
 
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i really dont know the stock size. but im pretty sure if you get the infinity components they fit right in. take it out and measure it. the rear is 4" but i have infinity 4's and they are still small.
 
i believe the stock tweeters are 1" but i'd have to measure them to be sure as they are sitting in the closet at home. New tweeters will fit into the stock location no problem. I believe my new tweets are 1.5-1.75" and still had plenty of room left. I only replaced the front door speakers with a nice set of CDT components and left the rear speakers alone. They are mainly meant to "fill" the rest of the sound in.
 
i believe the stock tweeters are 1" but i'd have to measure them to be sure as they are sitting in the closet at home. New tweeters will fit into the stock location no problem. I believe my new tweets are 1.5-1.75" and still had plenty of room left. I only replaced the front door speakers with a nice set of CDT components and left the rear speakers alone. They are mainly meant to "fill" the rest of the sound in.

That might be true, but they will "muddy" up the sound if you try and send even a medium amount of bass to them.
I have a rather low-tech, low-buck audio upgrade in mine. I have a JL Audio 200W amp connected to a 10" Bazooka laying in the hatch area. It is connected to the rear channel via a line-out converter attached to the speaker wires.
The main speakers are stock. I find that they can handle mids and highs fairly well. With the sub off, I adjust the tone so that the head unit can be turned all the way up without distortion. This means my Bass is set to 0, Mid to +1 and Treble to +2. Then, with volume at full I adjust the gain on the JL to pump it's max level before noticeable distortion.
Believe it or not, the system sounds amazing. I'm not going to win any competitions, but it sounds great to my ears (and feels great on my chest).
I feel that rear-view mirror rattling bass is more important than anything, and you are not going to get it from the door speakers at any price.
 
I feel that rear-view mirror rattling bass is more important than anything, and you are not going to get it from the door speakers at any price.

This is what I got for having that mindset.. guess what the charge was for lol..



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This is what I got for having that mindset.. guess what the charge was for lol..





what was the price tag on that nifty lil piece of paper?

wait did you get arrested for it? arrest date says same....

It was total BS, I had all my windows down listening to my subs at -13 (settings go from -24 to 0...), merged off of the highway onto a 4 lane road in front of a cop, forgot to turn my music down, and got pulled over for "unnecessary noise" and my tinted license plate covers. I go to court this coming Monday. Fines were only about $25 a piece but they really screw you on the processing fees...$62 for EACH offense. Also according to my other ticket, I have to appear in traffic court AND criminal court on the same date at the same time. What a load of :toilet3:

Back on topic, Infinity speakers are pretty good, I got all of my Infinity speakers for about $250.
 
Kind of a stupid question, but do we need an amp to hook the speakers up to? I just have a monoblock JL Audio 300w amp already hooked up. Do I need a 4 channell one or am I gonna have to purchase a separate one for the speakers(if needed)?
 
Kind of a stupid question, but do we need an amp to hook the speakers up to? I just have a monoblock JL Audio 300w amp already hooked up. Do I need a 4 channell one or am I gonna have to purchase a separate one for the speakers(if needed)?

Your aftermarket HU should come with a decently powered amp. My Jensen has a 200x4 power rating
 
Your aftermarket HU should come with a decently powered amp. My Jensen has a 200x4 power rating

no there is no way a headunit can push even 200watts rms MAX
dont get the misconception of max rating and rms. always look at what the RMS is not max. i have an alpine HU with the power pack and i sounds decent but its definitely not as clean or loud as my friend who has the infinity 475a amp. monoblock is meant to run cooler than a class a/b amp which are mostly 2 or 4 channel amps. monoblock is for one channel no left and right hence the mono. if you want to power all 4 aftermarket speakers which i recommend doing, get a 4 channel, something like an alpine mrp 300 or that 475a by infinity. i know what im doing here cause we install audio systems for everyone. plus the physics part of it. haha
 
monoblock is meant to run cooler than a class a/b amp which are mostly 2 or 4 channel amps. monoblock is for one channel no left and right hence the mono.
Not true, a monoblock just means that it runs mono, not that it runs cooler or more efficiantly. The class of the amp is what decerns how efficiantly it runs, and basicly says how electricity is disstributed once it enters the amp. All you have now are A/B class and D class amplifiers. A/B class is cleaner but not as efficiant, and D class are efficiant but not as clean. Most of your entry level monoblock amps are A/B class because they're cheaper to make.


To answer your original question, the factory tweeter location can house up to a 1.5" tweeter. If youre buying either infinity or alpine you've got nothing to worry about. I used to have the Kappa Perfects and the tweeter fit just fine. By the way, your rear speakers ar 5.25" despite what you may hear on internet forums, a 5.25" fits just fine without having to modify. I had to make 2 small cuts to fit 6.5" in the rear of my runner, so it is fairly easy.
 
By the way, your rear speakers ar 5.25" despite what you may hear on internet forums, a 5.25" fits just fine without having to modify. I had to make 2 small cuts to fit 6.5" in the rear of my runner, so it is fairly easy.

I had to make modifications to fit my 5.25s in the rear and didn't need to modify the front 6.25s to drop in. We have the same year so I don't know where the difference is. I have coax in the rear and components in the front. The tweets did require a little modification as well.

Edit: I just read your post again and see that you dropped in 6.5s which are not necessarily larger in diameter than the 5.25s. IIRC the 6.5 component woofers are smaller than 5.25 coaxials.
 
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Ok guys i appreciate all your input and information, So i've finally come to a conclusion as to what im going to get. I also have questions too.

Im getting

Pair of 6 1/2 Polk Speakers 69.00$
Pair of 4 inch Polk Rear Speakers 54.99$
And a Panasonic Head unit Double Din 120$ << Its extremely nice.
Polk db Series 1" Diameter / 25mm Silk/Polymer Composite Dome Tweeters < 70$
^^^ I might change the tweeters to something of lesser value.


Now my questions to you are.

I know for a FACT that i will need a Amp.
What type of amp should i be getting? 2 channel or 4
What should the RMS or peak watt should be.

Will the factory wiring harness from the stock head unit fit the new one?? or will i have to buy and adapter? If i need to where can i get one?


Also the website i am getting all this from is www.sonicelectronix.com
 
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Ok guys i appreciate all your input and information, So i've finally come to a conclusion as to what im going to get. I also have questions too.

Im getting

Pair of 6 1/2 Polk Speakers 69.00$
Pair of 4 inch Polk Rear Speakers 54.99$
And a Panasonic Head unit Double Din 120$ << Its extremely nice.
Polk db Series 1" Diameter / 25mm Silk/Polymer Composite Dome Tweeters < 70$
^^^ I might change the tweeters to something of lesser value.


Now my questions to you are.

I know for a FACT that i will need a Amp.
What type of amp should i be getting? 2 channel or 4
What should the RMS or peak watt should be.

Will the factory wiring harness from the stock head unit fit the new one?? or will i have to buy and adapter? If i need to where can i get one?


Also the website i am getting all this from is www.sonicelectronix.com

Why don't you just get a set of component speakers for up front?

You'll either need one four channel or two two channel amps.

The RMS of the amps will depend on the RMS handling of the speakers. It should be listed under their description. Don't look at max power.
 
Get a 4 channel amp and look at the RMS rating per channel. This RMS value should match or closely match the RMS rating of your speakers. A little more power on the amp end shouldn't be a problem. You can get an adapter harness for a Toyota, just look around online. The place your getting the H/U from should have harnesses actually. I agree that you should be looking at 6.5 components for the front and 4s are very small, maybe a little too small for the rear. I modded the existing rear speaker plate to fit my 5.25s but I think if you got an adapter plate, you would be able to mount the 5.25s to that and drop them right in. I can understand wanting to skip that step and going with the 4s, just be warned that they are strictly a high and midrange speaker which may need some bass blockers to prevent distortion.
 

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