Auto to Manual locking hub swap

the_dingman

New member
I've got a defective set of auto locking hubs on my 1st gen, and I want to swap for manual ones. Some of the ebay auctions I see include the cone washers and nuts, and some don't. If I'm swapping factory Toyota auto hubs for factory Toyota Manual hubs (Asian), do I need these parts, or can they be reused from my auto hubs?
 
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The cone washers are cheap. Just get the best deal that you can off ebay and go from there. I would have to remove your auto locking hubs and using the FSM determine whether or not I had all the pieces I needed.
 
The most important thing is to be sure you get the correct manual hubs. You need them for an IFS truck (86+).

Solid axle hubs (79-85) look the same but won't fit.

Cone washers are a few cents ea at the dealer, if you need them.
 
In the mean time is it possible to take apart the auto hubs and jam them locked? The weather here has been record setting, and I keep getting stuck in my parking lot as my hubs won't lock...
 
I would get rid of the auto hubs and install Toyota/ Asian manuals ASAP. It's an easy conversion and they work when you want them too! One of the best things I did to my 87'. I don't think there's any way to force the autos to lock if there's a problem with them.
 
shim shim sha roo

I am having the same problem with records being set with snow drifts in chicago so I was thinking of removing the springs inside the autohub and shimming out the missing space (and now the inner hub on axle's spindle, always has the hub clutch engaged) so the front axles always have the hubs but not if the transfer case does not have the drive shaft, i read some where that if you leave your manual hubs locked you gain shift on the fly, my shim sha roo should do the same. Besides most people also say its the springs that go bad and turn to dust over time ...http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/BOBCAT5544/2009-07-17_222203_1987_4_runner_hub.pdf special thanx to automag for the pdf
 
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I jammed some auto hubs closed, (engaged) on a chevy once but I can't remember how I did it.... It is possible tho. Ill have to reflect,,,,it was easy... gonna drive me crazy now.
 
I just did mine last night and the hardest part was getting the old gasket off without getting gunk in the wheel bearing recess. I got all my parts at Wab Fab.

If you haven't done your wheel bearings in a while, like in ever like mine, now would be an excellent time to change those too. I didn't do mine last night as I just did them a month ago.
 
i know i sound like a newb asking this, but i'm still a little unclear on the difference between autohubs and manual hubs.. what do the hubs do? are they like lockers? i know the manual hubs have that little knob in the middle to twist. i have auto hubs on my 95 and am wondering if i should convert to manual?
 
The hubs disconnect the wheels from the front axle. By disconnecting them, you greatly increase fuel economy, and reduce wear on the front axle and driveshaft.

Manual hubs require getting out and locking the hubs to engage 4WD, while inconvenient, they are very reliable, do not have issues of losing 4WD in reverse.

Auto hubs lock automatically when you shift into 4WD and drive forward, and unlock automatically when you reverse. These systems require that you back up for about 10 feet after disengaging 4WD to unlock the hubs. Auto hubs tend to wear out, and disengage in reverse, even in 4WD, resulting on no 4WD in reverse.

New systems use vacuum lines and clutches to lock/unlock.
 
ooooh i see, thanks, that totally cleared up alot of confusion. how can i tell if mine are broken or not? i have the ADD system on my truck as well, does this change anything other than disconnecting the front 3rd member?
 
ooooh i see, thanks, that totally cleared up alot of confusion. how can i tell if mine are broken or not? i have the ADD system on my truck as well, does this change anything other than disconnecting the front 3rd member?

The ADD system uses drive flanges, not hubs.
So unless you or a previous owner added them on, you don't have any hubs at all, manual or auto. The drive flange connects the wheel to the axle shaft permanently.
 
so this means i dont have to worry about my hubs wearing down? sweet

like i've stated before, i have tons of experience with turbos and overhauling motors, but almost zero experience in the world of 4 wheel drive vehicles (but i'm learning) thanks for your help and patience with a newb lol
 
Hope it's okay to butt in here but I need some help-same topic. Have a '86 4Runner SR5 that had Mile Marker manual hubs when we bought it. Took them off to service and found what looks to be auto hubs. Somebody slapped the manuals over the autos without taking out the auto hub brake assembly!(Inside edge of the MM hubs were ground off into aluminum dust!)I have read all the threads about converting, have the 54mm nuts and washers ready to go. Here's the problem-having a heck of a time getting the auto hub brake assembly/clutch off. Does this thing thread onto the 54 mm threads or does it slide over the threads? The three Torx screws are out but it's not budging-any ideas?
 

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