Auto Transmission Filter

G

gibson981

New member
Need some explaination why Toyota says changing AT filter is not necessary. I have a 120K, 1998 4runner, and know the AT fluid has never been touched. Plan to do a couple partial changes of the fluid by draining the pan, but seems like I should change the dirty filter first. I've read in a couple of different sources that filters aren't designed to be changed in Toyotas. Whats the good to put in clean fluid if theres a dirty filter??

Anybody have recommendations? Thanks.
 
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Gib...

I would definitely get a couple of more opinions. If you have 120K on the odo...it might be better to leave it alone.

I heard if you change it later on with more miles the new lube will act like slippery doo and may cause the transmission to slip.

I thought I hadn't change mine yet and had 110,000 miles on it. I found some receipts from the dealer and I had them do it at about 76,000 miles while I had the car in for a starter replacement job.

Please get a few more opinions from folks here or a reputable mechanic. You don't want to shell out for a new tranny.

Ps. Stay away from Firestone...geez. I got 3 different stories from 3 different mechanics...They're not ever touchn' my 4runner. Haha.

Take Care,
03RR
 
The filters (or oil strainers as they're called in the FSM) in the auto transmissions of the 3rd gen are re-usable. They are a fine metal mesh strainer, and just require periodic cleaning.

When you drain the transmission pan, you must then remove the pan, remove-clean-and re-install the three magnets that are in the bottom of the pan (they are there to attract any small metal particles in your ATF), then you remove-clean-and re-install the oil strainer, re-install your transmission oil pan, then refill it with new ATF.

You can (should) also consider flushing your transmission, because draining and re-filling your pan only replaces approx. 4 out of 16 qts of fluid.

Good luck.
 
Do NOT "power flush" your transmission with that many miles if it has never been done before. Just drop the pan and replace that amount with new oil. After a few hundred or a thousand miles do it again. You will read and read people saying that you must flush but that is NOT CORRECT. If you have a new vehicle and do regular flushes then fine. I have seen many perfectly working transmissions on high milage cars get ruined by these power flushes. All the particulates resting harmlessly out of the way get mixed back into the system and BAD things happen. Good luck
 
Thanks elemint. ..thats basically the consensus I'd come to. Last weekend I drained the pan, but didn't change the filter. I think I made the right choice. Car drives better, and the noise I heard before is completely gone. No intention on ever doing the flush with this vehicle. Plan to change the ATF (draining the pan) on the same interval as oil changes for the next couple of times. Thanks for everyones input. Next project....change differential oil.
Chris
 
A flush using the ATF's pump to pump out the fluid through the disconnected cooling lines going to the radiator is no different than the normal fluid flow path, so logically, one would not expect this to cause any damage to your transmission. With this method, you can achieve almost 100% fluid exchange.

I do agree that using a power flushing machine that has a separate higher flow/pressure pump may lead to dislodging crud from the transmission and plugging small passageways.

I'm a firm believer in having clean fluids in all components of your vehicle. It will pay off in the long run.
 
Excellent point. You might want to do the coolent line flush. Drain the pan, service it by removing, cleaning and changing the filter and reassemble. Refill the transmission with fresh fluid. Disconnect one of the cooler lines at the radiator, put it into a bucket and start the engine. Let the trans oil pump purge the old oil into the bucket so that nothing is subjected to abnormal oil flow. Start pouring oil into the trans to keep it full while the idling engine/tranny oil pump purges the fluid through the system.




I have not done that on a 4R, is that a 2 man job? How do
GSGALLANT said:
A flush using the ATF's pump to pump out the fluid through the disconnected cooling lines going to the radiator is no different than the normal fluid flow path, so logically, one would not expect this to cause any damage to your transmission. With this method, you can achieve almost 100% fluid exchange.

I do agree that using a power flushing machine that has a separate higher flow/pressure pump may lead to dislodging crud from the transmission and plugging small passageways.

I'm a firm believer in having clean fluids in all components of your vehicle. It will pay off in the long run.
Click to expand...
 
I had my tranny flushed at 99K using the BG fluid transfer method through the coolent lines. I know have 112K and have not had any problems. I don't know if the tranny had ever any service prior to this.
 
2000t4r4wd said:
I had my tranny flushed at 99K using the BG fluid transfer method through the coolent lines. I know have 112K and have not had any problems. I don't know if the tranny had ever any service prior to this.
Click to expand...

Same here. I think, if your fluid is not burnt, that you SHOULD flush all the old stuff out. The whole thing about not flushing doesn't make sense unless the fluid is burnt.

I would rather prolong the life of the tranny w/ new, clean fluid than wait for the tranny to die w/ the old tranny fluid in it. I went through the same thought process as you but decided to do it. It's only been about 3k miles since I did this but no issues so far. I also added a tranny cooler as an insurance policy.
 
auto trans filter replacement

I have a leaking transmission pan I believe it is the gasket. Should I also replace the filter? I have been reading that you should not replace the filter just clean the filter. The transmission still in great condition at 380k miles. So I dont want to ruin it which I have heard can happen when replacing it.
 
clintonion5 said:
I have a leaking transmission pan I believe it is the gasket. Should I also replace the filter? I have been reading that you should not replace the filter just clean the filter. The transmission still in great condition at 380k miles. So I dont want to ruin it which I have heard can happen when replacing it.
Click to expand...

The "filter" is really more of a screen that is in the bottom of the pan. I don't think you would have to replace it, maybe just clean it.
If you really want to filer a lot of us have hooked up a magnefine inline filter with it. I had my transmission flushed a few years ago, installed a magnefine and the fluid is still bright red.
 
On a 380K mile trans, removing the filter to clean it will result in filter gasket separation, but the good news is Toyota sells replacement gaskets for the filter themselves.

You can look them up at camelback using your year and model and drill into the transmission service parts, there aren't many and the gaskets are literally $10 for the two combined.

When you drop the pan you will want to reseal it with either Toyota's FIPG gasket material (RTV like) or many just use a part's store gasket, also about $10 - the choice is yours.

Cleaning the filter has been pretty well documented, flush the crap out of it with your fave cleaning fluid (brake cleaner, etc) then dry, replace gaskets and reinstall. Boom titties.

Good luck, omissions are not intentional but do your research
 
So this is in relation to much higher mileage 3G4R's (mine has 321k)

I work at an auto shop and just went to ask my master tech if since my trans pan is a little saturated, should I drop the pan, reseal it and then put all new fresh oil into it?

He said NO, it's not even worth it. Said just double check that the bolts are tight but if it's not dripping enough to leave any trace on the ground (which it isnt) the best idea is to simply check the level periodically and just top it off if needed.

Said honestly it's just better to have the older fluid in there and if it needs a little new fluid added, that's fine.

I'm just putting it out there, straight from a veteran technicians mouth. Personally, I'm obviously going to listen to my co-worker / friend. But my vehicle has over double what the OP's one has lol
 
McLoven1t562 said:
So this is in relation to much higher mileage 3G4R's (mine has 321k)

I work at an auto shop and just went to ask my master tech if since my trans pan is a little saturated, should I drop the pan, reseal it and then put all new fresh oil into it?

He said NO, it's not even worth it. Said just double check that the bolts are tight but if it's not dripping enough to leave any trace on the ground (which it isnt) the best idea is to simply check the level periodically and just top it off if needed.

Said honestly it's just better to have the older fluid in there and if it needs a little new fluid added, that's fine.

I'm just putting it out there, straight from a veteran technicians mouth. Personally, I'm obviously going to listen to my co-worker / friend. But my vehicle has over double what the OP's one has lol
Click to expand...

Can't say I'd listen to someone who tells me that or take his advice on much of anything automotive related. Sounds like he needs to get out of the 1970's thinking.
 
Well that I disagree with. If you keep the filter clean and your fluid with lubricating properties. The transmission last a lot longer. My Camry failed at 200k without the fluid changed or filter. This is because the contaminates are in the the fluid. Do if you don't excscattering.

Your are essentially sand blasting the transmission with old fluid. If the filter restricts fluid flow from being clogged the clutches and systems will be starved for fluid and lubercation and burned up along with scatterimg.

I seen it happen. If someone exchanges fluid and your transmission has issues. Your transmission was already damaged abs was going to go any day anyhow.


This is provided you use the proper transmission fluid dexron compatible fluid only. Toyota ws us not compatible with these transmission and T4 is not as well as there are technical bulletins out there saying this.

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[MENTION=708309]McLoven1t562[/MENTION], I agree it not worth it on pan seeping snug bolts add if needed.
Wana ask what is service history on 321k trans ?
Fluid ever changed 200k mi ago 150k pan screen service, if this is service history and Master tech knows this
I agree with what he said. Start messing with neglected trannys shit happens ride it till it quits.
If fluid's been serviced different story go ahead full service pan drop fluid flush after shoot for 400k.
 
Well I done it on transmissions with over 200k plus on them without anything done to them. But this is me. :)

The spill and fill can slowly exchange out the fluid if someone is concerned about it.

Nothing is going to stop a transmission from failing if it's damaged.

I can see folks saying don't do anything. Since it's a slight risk. For me I rather know if a transmission is bad before it leaves me stranded.

From my 30 years experiences with Toyotas. It's best to change your automatic fluid then not.

I probably would do a gallon at a time method. To get some lubercation back into the fluid. Then after 3 gallons is exchanged then change the filter and clean magnets.

Always the owners choice as it's your rig. :)



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