Aux Light Wiring Question

bartvonwolf

New member
Hey guys,

This weekend I am going to wire up some reverse lights. I have two 4" cube lights I will be putting the cut-outs of my CBI bumper, and I have this illuminated switch for the dash: Push switch 9B04GR 12volt Toyota OEM Replacement REAR LIGHTS Tacoma Highlander | eBay

I am wondering about the dash illumination wire that comes from the switch, where have you guys been tapping in and what is the right wire color to tie into on the 5th gen? There are neighboring illuminated switches and I figure those would be the easiest to tap into, just need to know the color.

Thanks,

Bart
 
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You don't necessarily need to tap into any other wires for the switch to illuminate. Just a basic connection will illuminate the switch and work the lights.
 
You don't necessarily need to tap into any other wires for the switch to illuminate. Just a basic connection will illuminate the switch and work the lights.

So any hot wire will work? I assume the light illuminates when the dash lights are on, and illuminates more or differently when the switch is activated. So I would think I need to wire it appropriately.

The instructions for the switch say to wire it into the "dash parking light circuit", which I don't know where that is or which wire is associated with that.

Thanks,

Bart
 
So any hot wire will work? I assume the light illuminates when the dash lights are on, and illuminates more or differently when the switch is activated. So I would think I need to wire it appropriately.

The instructions for the switch say to wire it into the "dash parking light circuit", which I don't know where that is or which wire is associated with that.

Thanks,

Bart

Wiring's not my forte but I've wired up a few things on my truck and things have been working fine lol. Just basic ground connection, black to black and red to red. Things turn on and light up and turn off when I need them to. Others will chime in, just give it a few.
 
Hey guys,

This weekend I am going to wire up some reverse lights. I have two 4" cube lights I will be putting the cut-outs of my CBI bumper, and I have this illuminated switch for the dash: Push switch 9B04GR 12volt Toyota OEM Replacement REAR LIGHTS Tacoma Highlander | eBay

I am wondering about the dash illumination wire that comes from the switch, where have you guys been tapping in and what is the right wire color to tie into on the 5th gen? There are neighboring illuminated switches and I figure those would be the easiest to tap into, just need to know the color.

Thanks,

Bart


looks like switch has two light options, one is to light up with dash lights.

  • Upper light is ON when the switch is pressed IN.
  • Lower light can be wired to separate dash light circuit.

i would use a volt meter/light. test which wire triggers when dash lights come on. and tap in to that. seems pretty straight forward. then hot to hot. ground to ground

FYI....amazon has mictuning brand switches too. little cheaper and lots of options, im sure they have 5th gen ones too
 
"...I am wondering about the dash illumination wire that comes from the switch, where have you guys been tapping in and what is the right wire color to tie into on the 5th gen? There are neighboring illuminated switches and I figure those would be the easiest to tap into, just need to know the color..."

Hi Bart,

You didn't say what brand of switch you plan to use, but most of our members seem to like A.O.B..



The GREEN wire on the switch harness is the one which you'll connect to a power source... I grabbed the cigarette lighter right on the center console because it's close to the switches. And it also will shut-off when you shut the truck off; so no chance of leaving the aftermarket lights on all night! The RED wire is your power supply to the new relay coil (#85); this will energize the relay to bring the lights on whenever the AOB switch is turned on. The BLUE wire on the new harness will Illuminate the etched icon on the switches face whenever the parking lights are on.

You just connect that blue wire to that GREEN wire on one of the other switches near where your new switch is located; like the wiper/mirror heater (if you have one) or perhaps the RSCA switch, or anything that's close by... the GREEN wire on the existing switch is just the Illumination circuit HOT. The GRAY wire on the same switch is the ground from the DIMMER DIAL switch. This one gets connected to the BLACK wire on the AOB harness, but that's optional. You can ground the BLACK wire to any suitable ground near-bye. If you follow the diagram above then you will be okay with the wiring! Best to you,

rig, Cheers!
 
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These switches need to be run through a relay because they are not designed like a light switch. These switches like low current to activate a relay which trips the lights on and off. Once you get a wire harness I can explain how I installed mine. I also used this switch to run my power for my winch but it simple trips a 500 amp relay/ solenoid .
 
Hey guys,

This weekend I am going to wire up some reverse lights. I have two 4" cube lights I will be putting the cut-outs of my CBI bumper, and I have this illuminated switch for the dash: Push switch 9B04GR 12volt Toyota OEM Replacement REAR LIGHTS Tacoma Highlander | eBay

I am wondering about the dash illumination wire that comes from the switch, where have you guys been tapping in and what is the right wire color to tie into on the 5th gen? There are neighboring illuminated switches and I figure those would be the easiest to tap into, just need to know the color.

Thanks,

Bart

Solid green wire on factory switches is dash illumination circuit.
 
Just the answers I was looking for!!

This post is going on 9 years old but has the info I've been looking for!

I'm wiring a Raptor-like dual illumination switch (Amazon) for the raptor-style lights I put in my 5th gen 2024 TRD Off Road Premium. This thread has the goods!

Hopefully the solid green wire in the factory harnesses is still the dimmed dash illumination wire.

The only sketchy part is getting to a solid green wire. The wires I'm finding on the existing switches are only about 26 gauge and it will be easy to f-up the harness. The wiring is tight with little to almost no slack in the harnesses.

My Amazon-raptor switch uses a YELLOW wire in place of the BLUE wire in the harness shown above in post #6. To get the job done until I found the correct wire, I tied the YELLOW illumination wire the RED output to the relay coil. While this works just fine for basic illumination when activated, I want it done right. So, back under the dash I go.

Thanks again!
 
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This post is going on 9 years old but has the info I've been looking for!

I'm wiring a Raptor-like dual illumination switch (Amazon) for the raptor-style lights I put in my 5th gen 2024 TRD Off Road Premium. This thread has the goods!

Hopefully the solid green wire in the factory harnesses is still the dimmed dash illumination wire.

The only sketchy part is getting to a solid green wire. The wires I'm finding on the existing switches are only about 26 gauge and it will be easy to f-up the harness. The wiring is tight with little to almost no slack in the harnesses.

My Amazon-raptor switch uses a YELLOW wire in place of the BLUE wire in the harness shown above in post #6. To get the job done until I found the correct wire, I tied the YELLOW illumination wire the RED output to the relay coil. While this works just fine for basic illumination when activated, I want it done right. So, back under the dash I go.

Thanks again!

Just a suggestion. I would not tap into any factory wiring. I'd use a mini fuse tap and find a slot in the drivers fuse that has power when the dash lights are illuminated. there are multiple but people like to use the brake lights. you can get your switch power either from a slot that is active when IGN is on or just get one with constant power

don't power your lights from the switch, use a relay, I'm sure the lights came with one. no splicing into factory wiring, factory wiring remains undisturbed

your switch will probably have 4 leads off it

switch power > IGN or other power source
load > turns on the lights but does not run the lights
ground > ground
illumination > tap into brake (optional)
 
Just a suggestion. I would not tap into any factory wiring. I'd use a mini fuse tap and find a slot in the drivers fuse that has power when the dash lights are illuminated. there are multiple but people like to use the brake lights...

TAIL lights, not BRAKE lights, if you want to light the dash when the lights are on.
 
Just a suggestion. I would not tap into any factory wiring. I'd use a mini fuse tap and find a slot in the drivers fuse that has power when the dash lights are illuminated. there are multiple but people like to use the brake lights. you can get your switch power either from a slot that is active when IGN is on or just get one with constant power

don't power your lights from the switch, use a relay, I'm sure the lights came with one. no splicing into factory wiring, factory wiring remains undisturbed

your switch will probably have 4 leads off it

switch power > IGN or other power source
load > turns on the lights but does not run the lights
ground > ground
illumination > tap into brake (optional)

With all due respect, the last sentence in my post says I wired the switch lighting to the output going to the relay coil. There is a relay under the hood for the raptor lights. It switches power from the DOME light circuit in the engine bay fuse box via a piggyback fuse holder with a 10A fuse. The raptor lights are LED so there is very low current draw plus they operate on their own fuse.

I put a piggyback fuse holder in place of the IGN 2 fuse under the dash. That is providing the power to the switch (5A fuse) and hence the relay coil. Currently it is also powering the switch illumination (yellow wire in my case), but this I want to change to the correct dash circuit.
 

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[MENTION=406924]Old Tanker[/MENTION]:
Thanks for the tips. I'm using the IGN 2 fuse location with a piggyback fuse holder to power the switch/relay coil.
Since I'm not tapping or splicing any existing wires and essentially using a bus tap, I'm not worried about taxing any existing circuitry.
As long as the ignition is ON the lights can be operated.
 

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