Auxiliary Fuse Box Question

[JSparky]

Hey everyone, I'm in the process of putting together an auxiliary fuse box. This will mount inside the truck, in the back somewhere behind the rear seat, likely near/on the A-pillar. My objective is to provide fuse protected circuits to things such as a fridge, roof lights, remote mounted radio ect. I'll be running a primary battery cable from my second battery in the engine compartment for power.

Either way, I have a question on enclosures. I'm eyeing a die cast aluminum box from a company called Hammond Manufacturing that features a waterproof gasket. Alternatively, they make similar boxes in polycarbonate, but wall thickness on those models has me concerned in the event cargo shifts while driving and the box takes a hit. The third option I've identified would be a Pelican case with the foam insert removed.

My question is, are there any concerns/advantages over using aluminum vs a polycarbonate type material? They're both water and dust proof, and aluminum isn't much harder to tap and drill than poly so it's kind of a wash there. My only real thought is that aluminum may be more prone to condensation inside the box during temperature swings. However, I like the aluminum box for its clean lines and simplicity.

Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks


Aluminum Box: Hammond Mfg. - Watertight - Thick Wall - Diecast Aluminum (1550Z Series)

Pelican Case: Pelican Products | 1120 Case | Protective hard cases

 

[UnderFire]

I'd go with the Pelican box for three reasons, plastic doesn't conduct electricity, so you never have to worry about anything shorting out through the box, the plastic will be much easier to run wires through safely, with the cast aluminum you will need to buy grommets for every hole which adds up quick, and cast aluminum is much more prone to breaking than polycarbonate, so if you are hauling something big and heavy around and the box takes a hit, the aluminum box may crack where the polycarb wouldn't have.

Just my .02

 

[preacher35]

Hey everyone, I'm in the process of putting together an auxiliary fuse box. This will mount inside the truck, in the back somewhere behind the rear seat, likely near/on the A-pillar. My objective is to provide fuse protected circuits to things such as a fridge, roof lights, remote mounted radio ect. I'll be running a primary battery cable from my second battery in the engine compartment for power.

Either way, I have a question on enclosures. I'm eyeing a die cast aluminum box from a company called Hammond Manufacturing that features a waterproof gasket. Alternatively, they make similar boxes in polycarbonate, but wall thickness on those models has me concerned in the event cargo shifts while driving and the box takes a hit. The third option I've identified would be a Pelican case with the foam insert removed.

My question is, are there any concerns/advantages over using aluminum vs a polycarbonate type material? They're both water and dust proof, and aluminum isn't much harder to tap and drill than poly so it's kind of a wash there. My only real thought is that aluminum may be more prone to condensation inside the box during temperature swings. However, I like the aluminum box for its clean lines and simplicity.

Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks


Aluminum Box: Hammond Mfg. - Watertight - Thick Wall - Diecast Aluminum (1550Z Series)

Pelican Case: Pelican Products | 1120 Case | Protective hard cases

[MENTION=96425]JSparky[/MENTION]

OR, you could go with one of these built and sold by a member of Tacomaworld:

www.tacomaworld.com/threads/waterproof-fuse-and-relay-boxes-rfrm-10-relay-rtmr-5-relay-no-blue-sea-spod.336590/

Or, if your budget is smaller, maybe one of these:

24 Position ATC Blade Type Fuse Block Bussmann New | eBay

 

[JSparky]

I'd go with the Pelican box for three reasons, plastic doesn't conduct electricity, so you never have to worry about anything shorting out through the box, the plastic will be much easier to run wires through safely, with the cast aluminum you will need to buy grommets for every hole which adds up quick, and cast aluminum is much more prone to breaking than polycarbonate, so if you are hauling something big and heavy around and the box takes a hit, the aluminum box may crack where the polycarb wouldn't have.

Just my .02

Makes sense. I figured on putting grommets around the access holes but I agree in that poly would be less prone to damaging wires. Nothing should be able to short but yea.. good points.

[MENTION=96425]JSparky[/MENTION]

OR, you could go with one of these built and sold by a member of Tacomaworld:

www.tacomaworld.com/threads/waterproof-fuse-and-relay-boxes-rfrm-10-relay-rtmr-5-relay-no-blue-sea-spod.336590/

Or, if your budget is smaller, maybe one of these:

24 Position ATC Blade Type Fuse Block Bussmann New | eBay

Nice, I'm pretty sure I ran across his stuff while researching. That or it was on a Landcruiser forum.. I don't know but either way, really clean work. I was considering picking up a bussmann panel as well but I'm not really a fan of the rear access, I want everything sealed up. I considered other options like sPod too but for what I want I think it makes sense for me to put it together. Most of these pre-wired products are $$$!

Either way, good links thanks for providing those. I already picked up a fuse block from a company called CE Auto Electric, takes ATC/ATO fuses up to 40 amp per circuit, positive bus, and it's tiny (like half the size of Blue Sea). Biggest thing is that it takes spade terminals instead of the push-on ones, so everything is screwed down tight. I'll take pics when I put it all together.

Thanks guys