It took a good shot from a big dead blow mallet when I was disassembling for the R & P replacement. When I reassembled I also gave it a good shot to seat the axle and was hoping that would be it, wrong. After a couple test rides the axle had separated from the housing and the dust shield was a good 1/4 away from the housing. It sure doesn't seem to be locking. I didn't replace the lock ring could it be that simple? I don't think so but was wondering if anyone else has had this experience.
Axle is separating from IFS housing
- Thread starter kc15842
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mikesmith140
New member
The repair manual says you need the snap ring, and without it I think it might be prone to pull out when near full extension.
On the dust housing ... you're not talking about the grease dirt/dust cover that is sandwiched between the axle from the differential and the actual CV axle, are you? Or are you referring to the dust boot over the end of the CV axle?
Mike
On the dust housing ... you're not talking about the grease dirt/dust cover that is sandwiched between the axle from the differential and the actual CV axle, are you? Or are you referring to the dust boot over the end of the CV axle?
Mike
KidVermicious
New member
Unless the clip on the stub shaft is broken or bent.
You shouldn't need to pull the diff to fix this. Pull the CV shaft then yank the half axle and check out that clip. If it looks good, you might need to pull the crossmember so you can pull the diff cover and see what's going on in there, but I think the diff can stay put at least for now.
I agree, it just sucks having to do that. Once you get things buttoned up you would like to actually enjoy the truck. But now that I think about it even if I pull of the cover I don't know if I can actually see the clips like you could with the stock carrier....
Thanks
Thanks
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KidVermicious
New member
I didn't realize you'd put a TT in there. Yah, you won't be able to see if the clip is engaging.
I'm betting that when you popped it out you flattened or bent the clip, and you'll see that when you pull the axle out. That, or you broke the clip when you put it back in and it's floating around the bottom of your diff. :shocked:
I'm betting that when you popped it out you flattened or bent the clip, and you'll see that when you pull the axle out. That, or you broke the clip when you put it back in and it's floating around the bottom of your diff. :shocked:
KidVermicious
New member
Yuck. I'm gonna go ahead and take back what I said about not having to drop the diff.
Did you install the TT yourself?
Did you install the TT yourself?
Yes sir, really it went well except this little issue. I just found the model # on the box is correct but the p/n isn't. I'm waiting for a response from Detroit/Eaton but with the holiday I'm not hopeful. The stub shaft locks as designed in the original Toyota carrier just not the TT. The depth measures OK with some rough numbers while installed its a bit tough to be precise. It appears there may be a leading edge on both sides of the inner TT gear splines where there should only be a leading edge to the splines on the outer side and a sharp edge on the inner which would allow the clip to actually lock the stub shaft.
I do appreciate the feedback..... thanks for the note
I do appreciate the feedback..... thanks for the note
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Help
Now Detroit/Eaton is telling me it must be the wrong axles. I have an 87 , are there different versions of the stub shafts that would change the location of the c clip or have a longer leading area allowing the axle to go further into the diff gear? This thing is taking way to long to resolve.
Now Detroit/Eaton is telling me it must be the wrong axles. I have an 87 , are there different versions of the stub shafts that would change the location of the c clip or have a longer leading area allowing the axle to go further into the diff gear? This thing is taking way to long to resolve.
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KidVermicious
New member
I always thought a 7.5 front was a 7.5 front, but here's text from the Eaton application guide:
The 1.10" and 1.12" are axle shaft diameter. I don't know why there's an 86-88 entry with a 1.10" shaft, I've never heard of that and don't know what truck that applies to, but it shares a part number with the '86-'04 "4Runner only" entry. What part number do you have on the Truetrac in your hands?
http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@per/documents/content/ct_128302.pdf
The 1.10" and 1.12" are axle shaft diameter. I don't know why there's an 86-88 entry with a 1.10" shaft, I've never heard of that and don't know what truck that applies to, but it shares a part number with the '86-'04 "4Runner only" entry. What part number do you have on the Truetrac in your hands?
Yes, I've been through this and I have the 91A445. The catalog has 2 size splines with the same model #, odd. I have the small bearing, 45MM and the spline measure 1.10. The length of splines of the TT gear and the axle are exact the issue is the axle leading edge as it transitions from the spline to the OD mates with the gear and doesn't allow it to fully engage. I'm tempted to machine the axle removing about .200 to allow it to fully engage.
Talking to Eaton this model should work and it must be my axles. My axles appear to be stock as does the entire truck. I haven't found any info on the stub shafts to see what the changes have been over the years. This project should have been done weeks ago. The test drive went great only to learn the axles aren't locked.
Talking to Eaton this model should work and it must be my axles. My axles appear to be stock as does the entire truck. I haven't found any info on the stub shafts to see what the changes have been over the years. This project should have been done weeks ago. The test drive went great only to learn the axles aren't locked.
Truetrac- c clip issue
Well update, still waiting for my machinist friend to machine the TT drive gears that lock to the stub shafts. What is sad Detroit/Eaton can't explain why I need to do this. I am absolutely sure my measurements are sound and there is physically no way the c clip clears the splines. I am removing .150 from the end of the splines(see post 11 second picture). These gears are much beefier than the stock dif gears and are longer. Even after I machine the splines I'll have about the same length of spline engagement.
I really like the way the TT handled, I'm going to give this thing about another week and if I can't get it dialed in it's going back. What type of LS or locker are you running in your front and how do you like it?
Well update, still waiting for my machinist friend to machine the TT drive gears that lock to the stub shafts. What is sad Detroit/Eaton can't explain why I need to do this. I am absolutely sure my measurements are sound and there is physically no way the c clip clears the splines. I am removing .150 from the end of the splines(see post 11 second picture). These gears are much beefier than the stock dif gears and are longer. Even after I machine the splines I'll have about the same length of spline engagement.
I really like the way the TT handled, I'm going to give this thing about another week and if I can't get it dialed in it's going back. What type of LS or locker are you running in your front and how do you like it?
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KidVermicious
New member
I've got an elocker waiting to go in front. I tried the TrueTrac in the front of my '86 and didn't like it. It definitely added traction on the rocks (when I could keep weight on both fronts, that is) but I did not like it on slippery surfaces like sand or mud. It pushed pretty bad. I might have gotten used to it, but that truck went away and I didn't have a chance. I probably won't do a limited slip in front again.
I'm a big fan of the design of the TrueTrac though. It's nice and tight, with no wait to engage and no clutch packs to wear out.
I'm a big fan of the design of the TrueTrac though. It's nice and tight, with no wait to engage and no clutch packs to wear out.
