Backfire/Studder under acceleration

That's not your NSS. If it were your NSS, it wouldn't do anything. Maybe click, but not crank. You either have a vaccum leak somewhere, injector, TPS, or a coil pack. Could also be one of your wires is rubbed somewhere grounding out. I'm leaning more towards your TPS at this point, because it starts sometimes, and not others. That, and the fact that it's sputtering over 2500. Try changing that. It is a little black thing on the back of your throttle body that's held in by two screws. google pictures of it and it'll come right up. right around 30 IIRC from Azone...
 
never assume it's the same code. Go get it read to be certain. Below is what came up with P1300. the only experience I have with a bad igniter was on a motor cycle. And it seemed to be random but more of an issue when it was hot out. Electrical issues can very much be effected by heat.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/101757-cel-p1300-ignition-circuit.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/problems-warranty-issues/117708-p1300-code.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/general-discussions/117242-1999-4runner-p1300-code.html
 
That's not your NSS. If it were your NSS, it wouldn't do anything. Maybe click, but not crank. You either have a vaccum leak somewhere, injector, TPS, or a coil pack. Could also be one of your wires is rubbed somewhere grounding out. I'm leaning more towards your TPS at this point, because it starts sometimes, and not others. That, and the fact that it's sputtering over 2500. Try changing that. It is a little black thing on the back of your throttle body that's held in by two screws. google pictures of it and it'll come right up. right around 30 IIRC from Azone...

I just bought a TPS yesterday, $65 but that was from Toyota.
 
Another Update

i went ahead and bought another coil pack just to be double sure that they were not the culprit this whole time, just making sure that i didn't mess up when i "tested" them... they are all fine and the problem is still there. i swapped all the coils for the new one and started it up after each swap and the issue was still there. here is a video: 4runner Studder 3 - YouTube

oddly enough last time i tried starting it a couple days ago it wouldn't start because of a p1300 code (i had it checked again). i went out and it started right up. last time i checked, CEL codes don't just disappear on their own, specially a code as bad as igniter circuit malfunction. notice in the video when it studders that it doesn't flash the CEL or anything. i'm sure that if i tried to drive it around for a bit the code would come back, i just find it odd that it would go away to begin with. i haven't reset anything and nothing else in my truck is reset. its very strange.
 
i actually drove it around town today and it drove perfectly fine as long as i kept the rpms below 2500ish. no CEL, it drove really smooth and normal knowing that i couldnt take it over 2500.

i would suspect an injector , i've had a bad one and they tend to be a bit more common than people make them out to be, i've personally have come across 3 cases of bad injectors, we have to remember that these things are getting old and just because we haven't seen a ton of them in the past doesn't mean they won;t start popping up one day, it's really only a matter of time until we start seeing waves of new failures just due to age alone......

and personally after checking for vac leaks yesterday for my run lean code p0171 i'm leaning towards my second clogged injector on my 2nd 4runner , so it's tough to tell, don't get me wrong i wouldn't run out and buy a whole new injector set, but i wouldn't tell you not to test the ones you have already, anything can be possible
 
would it be best to replace one or have them all cleaned?

i would love to replace them all cause if im gonna take the manifold off i might as well do them all but at the same time i dont have the money now that i've spent a lot of money on what the problem isn't.
 
Yep, Ppl say it is uncommon, but I too have had to replace a bad injector, #5 I believe that sits right under the manifold. So for all that say replacing injectors is unheard of, it really isn't. I am really leaning towards that, bc your symptoms are somewhat similar to what I experienced.
 
I checked with the local shop and asked how much it would cost to clean out the injectors... around $60. I checked to see how much it would cost to re-manufacture all 6 injectors... $180. The cleaning isn't a for sure fix but it could fix it for much cheaper than get all the injectors re-done, or i could spend nearly $200 on having all the injectors re-manufactured and if it is the injectors have the problem fixed.
 
Do a search for testing injectors , there is a way of testing them by checking the resistance in the wiring to the injector with a multimeter , i don't know what its meant to be or I'd tell you, do this first before you spend anything.
 
I came kinda late to this particular party, but I know how to diagnose engine problems the old fashioned way. The most computerized bit in my previous car was the turn signal relay...

I didn't read the whole thing, but the first post told me just about everything I need to know. You have to think of it in terms of systems and symptoms. Your problems exist upon heavy loads, and "studder" is spelled "stutter" (had to toss that one in there). Backfires typically occur from one of three sources, overly rich mixture, overly lean mixture, and off timing.

If it were overly rich and backfiring, you'd have a CEL from the cat being bad. Catalyzed exhaust systems require additional fuel to burn in the cat and keep it working. Too much fuel (or oil) will burn out the cat and you have a CEL. Since you don't have a constant CEL, you're not too rich. Additionally, the stutter indicates it's probably not rich because it would have to be INSANELY rich to cause that and you'd smell gas in your exhaust (also, cat would be burned out).

Timing is controlled by your ECU, so you don't have to worry too much about things from that end. Your coil packs could be bad (you don't feel they are, but electronic things don't always go bad in obvious ways). You've changed your spark plugs, which would take care of a rich condition caused by a missed spark causing unburnt fuel to enter the exhaust system and cause a backfire. Still, if a coil pack were bad you'd have the condition at times other than just under heavy load.

This leaves a lean condition, which fits all of your systems. A mixture that is too lean won't burn correctly (there's your stutter) and may not be burned in the cat, then backfire in the muffler (slowing of exhaust gases causes an accumulation of fuel which would then ignite when the hot gases from what is correctly burned in the cat from the next cylinder firing). Things would be fine under normal loads if a particular injector were only able to squirt enough fuel in all but the most demanding of loads.

So we're looking firmly at the fuel system for a cause of a lean condition. The fuel systems includes the tank (no effect here), fuel filter (replaced), fuel pump (you ruled it out, but I didn't see why), injectors (likely), MAF (no associated code), O2 (no associated code), TPS (no associated code), and ECU (not likely).

I assume that since you said you use injector cleaner regularly you've done it here (bad gas, sitting for a while, etc. can gum an injector quickly) and they're clean. That means at least one is bad. Odds are there's only one bad (two would be unlikely enough to rule it out statistically).

Finally, here's how to figure out which one! It's probably not going to make you feel warm and fuzzy, but stay with me. It sounds like it's doing it now as a function of RPM (a more severe condition than if it were just doing it under load but just further along the same spectrum), so that actually makes things even easier. If you manipulate the throttle by hand from the engine compartment you'll be able to rev it up to the point of stutter. Now comes the fun part: shut off the engine and disconnect a spark plug wire (otherwise it's a fairly unpleasant shock; not lethal, but definitely not something you'd likely care to repeat). Start is back up and see if you can get it to start with one spark plug wire disconnected. It won't like it, but it should still run. Now rev it. If it dies or runs even worse at the 2500 RPM point, the cylinder with the pulled plug is NOT at fault. If it stutters like it has been, there's your culprit. It's not the nicest thing in the world to do to your cat, but if you're quick cycling through, it won't be as bad as maintaining the status quo. Once you've figured out which injector is at fault, replace that one and you're good.
 
Yeah, i poured over my Haynes manual yesterday and found the little section(a sentence lol) that covered testing injectors and it said 12-16ohms. I would test it as stated by spectre6000 but only if the multimeter doesn't yield any of the desired results. I'm a little worried about possible damage to my cat with that method.

I did some searching and found some good links on how to replace injectors:
Matt's How-to... Blog: How to replace a fuel injector on a toyota 4 runner
Fuel Injector replacement - 1997 Toyota 4Runner 3.4L 6-cyl - YouTube

I don't know when i'm gonna get to start tearing into it as it has been stupid hot out here, it hasn't rained here for weeks but still manages to maintain high humidity which makes the high 90's feel like its over 100. Hopefully by the weekend hits I will have gotten the chance to figure something out.
 
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Multimeter! That sounds fun! Didn't think of that (did I mention I'm not quite up to speed on the new fuel injection setups?). That method won't hurt anything worse that it's been being hurt as long as you don't sit there and run it for hours like that. The cat gets a richer charge when it starts cold anyway.
 
Another Update

Ok, today I set to the task of removing the intake manifold so that i could multimeter test all of the injectors. A fairly straight forward task, much easier than i first expected. Took me an hour from start to finish to remove, test and reassemble. Well i tested them all the results aren't good. They all tested good, all were consistent at 16omh, and i say results weren't good because i was looking for something more conclusive. Go figure that I'm still without a definite clue as to what is wrong with this thing.

So with them all testing fine maybe i should just go have them cleaned at the shop? It's $60 or so (which could be used on a new injector) but since I dont know which injector it is for sure :shrug:
 
Does the new coil pack come with the boot that connects to the spark plug? I have seen these go bad on bmws. Also spectre mentioned disconnecting spark plug wires one by one to see if and when the misfire stays the same. This will at least narrow it down to a particular cylinder. And are you positive you have the plug wires routed correctly? You said it got worse after cleaning the plugs its possible you fixed the bad plugs when replacing them but now may have a issue with the wires routed wrong. It's a lot easier to mix up then you think. But if that's fine I'd definitely try and narrow your problem down to a certain cylinder if possible. Then you can start swapping stuff and repeating the pulling one plug wire deal hopefully and find it without tossing more money at it.
 
Wow. You went all the way down to the injectors and didn't replace them? Go to rockauto.com and look for GB reman injectors. They have them for $30ea. These are OEM injectors. I'm betting it's an injector problem and the electrical coil within one is failing but not failed yet. You load it up and it starts shorting out. Change out all 6 at the same time so you know all cylinders are getting the correct amount of fuel. What can happen is one cylinder is starving for fuel so the computer makes the fuel richer to compensate for what the O2 sensor believes is a lean condition. Now you are fouling the other 5 plugs because they are getting too much fuel. The O2 sensor is taking a snapshot of the average ratio, assuming all cylinders are getting the proper amount of fuel. In reality you are dumping fuel,into the exhaust and killing the cat.

On mine, the #5 was fine when cold at idle but failed when it got hot. Then it failed altogether and wouldn't even idle when cold. I was being cheap and bought only 3 to replace the drivers side but wishing I had done all 6. But next time I won't have to go so deep to reach the passenger side injectors.

Spark plugs:

Watch these two videos. The first one will show you how poor the spark is with large electrode plugs compared to platinum or iridium. The second one addresses the multi ground plug myths

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tS4MV2pELyU&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Multi-Ground Electrode spark plugs from NGK Spark Plugs

If you want my opinion ( nobody does) that little diamond window in the E3 ground electrode acts like a wind tunnel and extinguishes the spark. What a stupid design. Have you even walked up to a building with an overpass and the air is blowing faster through it. Thats what is happening in that window. A traditional ground plug protects the flame kernel allowing it to expand. If you go platinum, be sure it's a double platinum plug. Google wasted spark ignition. It's too involved to explain here but in short you have one coil per two cylinders. The spark fires center to ground on 3 cylinders an ground to center on the other 3.
 
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