Bad MPG’s/What’s yours?

[RandyBobandy]

I would also recommend replacing your o2 sensors, oem ones aren’t very much from rock auto and I got at least a 1mpg gain when I did mine, if they are on their last legs you might gain even more. I think the service manual even states a recommended replacement interval though I’m not sure what it is

 

[phattyduck]

There's a lot of variation in what people define as city driving. My commute is in downtown DC: 2 mi, with a dozen stop signs plus as many lights, which results in something close to 11 mpg.

If you're getting 14 with 6 stops at 40 mph, that sounds a bit below what it should be.

Eh, the torque converter doesn't lock below 45 (3rd) or 50 (OD), so that is pretty inefficient running.

If you try a road trip on the freeway at ~65 mph, you'll see what it will actually do...

-Charlie

 

[thezentree]

14ish mpg combined on winter fuel with 70% city, 30% highway. 33s, 4.56s, bumpers and sliders.

 

[Outrider]

For reference:

Mine is a '99 SR5 2WD automatic with a Yakima roof rack, Michelin LT's 265/70/16's and 200k on the clock. Original OEM O2 sensors. Recent aftermarket fuel injectors, NGK plugs and NGK wires. MAF sensor cleaned within last 10k miles.


I get 17-19 mpg around town, and 18-23 mpg on the highway (keeping it under 70 mph). 65 mph is the magic interstate speed for mine - covering ground while getting good mpg. Above 70 mph, and the mpg gets dismal, real fast. I have gotten as good as 23.5 mpg, going from Atlanta to Florida (slightly downhill the entire way), with the cruise control set on 60. I do not give a damn if I piss off people in the right lane on the interstate, "making" them pass me. The speed limit is not the minimum legal speed.

I'm not a candyass on the gas pedal, but I don't accelerate hard. I let off of the throttle early, when I foresee slowing or stopping ahead.

 

[quicksilvr]

I get 13-14 in the winter, and 15-16 in the summer. About 225 miles a tank, and put about 16-17 gals in usually. If I get 12 on a tank right now, I just shrug and go on.

Type of driving makes a massive difference, as well as everything everyone else has said.

My truck with stock tires would get 375 miles a tank on the highway 5 years ago. That's about as good as you can ask for....but few people get that.

 

[brillo_76]

The 3rd gens may not care for the ethonal gas as they were designed to run standard gas. As federally all gas has 10% mixed in. I never did check the difference between straight gas and ethanol gas. I would suspect a slight loss in mpg.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

 

[Kanoe]

The 3rd gens may not care for the ethonal gas as they were designed to run standard gas. As federally all gas has 10% mixed in. I never did check the difference between straight gas and ethanol gas. I would suspect a slight loss in mpg.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

I suspect your suspicions may be right. My averages always seem slightly better north of the border where premium is still non-ethanol at some stations. (and without the price hit non-eth commands in the US)

 

[brillo_76]

I suspect your suspicions may be right. My averages always seem slightly better north of the border where premium is still non-ethanol at some stations. (and without the price hit non-eth commands in the US)

I can buy non ethanol gas at locations about 10 miles away from my house. However, it's mid grade only octane.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

 

[snydmax]

A friend changed his fuel filter and that helped with his mileage.

This... helped me out bit



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I tried the non ethanal gas and all I did was waste 50 cents per gallon. I got the same mpg.

Ethanol wants to absorb moisture so it will pull it out of anything if it’s available.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[brillo_76]

I tried the non ethanal gas and all I did was waste 50 cents per gallon. I got the same mpg.

Ethanol wants to absorb moisture so it will pull it out of anything if it’s available.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Could be. I never looked into it. I just dont put ethonal fuel in my classic cars. Also my small engines hate it. So I try to stay away from it in them. My standard cars run it.

Ethanol isnt very stable in gas. Not sure how long it lasts without breaking down.
I wish they just get rid of out of the fuel. Standard gasoline lasts alot longer then the mixed fuel.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

 

[busmup808]

Do you have a scanner that reads live data to make sure you are driving in closed loop instead of open loop.?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What is this closed loop u speak of? I just obtained a scan gauge from my friend and did even read about it. It’s in my truck for a couple of months and I don’t know how to operate it. [emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[19963.4lsr5]

What is this closed loop u speak of? I just obtained a scan gauge from my friend and did even read about it. It’s in my truck for a couple of months and I don’t know how to operate it. [emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The only way you will see if it’s closed loop is if the scanner reads live data. Cheap scanners will only read the diagnostic codes.

Closed Loop is when the engine starts using the front O2 sensor to control the fuel mixture(14.7:1 air fuel ratio) In open loop it runs very rich (around 12:1 air fuel ratio) to not burn up the engine. The extra fuel it uses running rich will effect fuel milage and it can also gas your oil.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Could be. I never looked into it. I just dont put ethonal fuel in my classic cars. Also my small engines hate it. So I try to stay away from it in them. My standard cars run it.

Ethanol isnt very stable in gas. Not sure how long it lasts without breaking down.
I wish they just get rid of out of the fuel. Standard gasoline lasts alot longer then the mixed fuel.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

I run high test in all my small engines. Ethanol has never been a problem for me. High test will last a year untreated before it starts to skunk.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Brian.]

Ethanol isnt very stable in gas. Not sure how long it lasts without breaking down.

I've got about 27 years under my belt as a motorcycle mechanic, so I've worked right through the change in fuel. "Bad" gas can be a whole lot of things, but when talking about age it nearly always comes down to oxidization. Pure gas can go about a year before it starts having issues, same was true for the MTBE years (was fully phased out by about 2000). Ethanol fuel can go about 3~4 months, though if you're in a HOT climate, a month might be showing problems. On a similar vein, if the fuel is kept in a sealed container (the new gas cans that don't vent) that's as full as possible (as little headspace/air), it can go longer. The reason for the short time is that the H2O it absorbs is introducing more oxygen that causes the fuel to "varnish" and go bad. It's no longer just the surface touching air, but now it's the moisture being pulled out of the air and into the fluid too....

Octane ratings have NOTHING to do with time before gas degradation. Sorry, you can think that all you want but it's not going to make it true. In some, rare, cases the higher octane fuel have less ethanol (or did, I haven't seen any in a long time), but it's a safe assumption that the base fuel platform is the same for any given brand, and the Only difference is extra additives to rise the octane.

Get into additives like StaBil, and you can get most of a year out of ethanol fuel in most cases (extreme heat and a nearly empty tank would be the major exceptions). I'm sure most of the additives are the same, I've just been a StaBil user for decades and haven't had need to look elsewhere.


If you have small engines that see only occasional use and want to give them the best fighting chance, drain the carb float bowl after every use. No, running it till it stops is not good enough (it'll actually make things worse). Then, fully top off the fuel tank. I've made a lot of money over the years cleaning motorcycle carbs in the spring, the people who heed my advice never come back (well, for that service, it usually earns me a lot of Other work though). those who don't, I get to see year after year after year....

 

[brillo_76]

I've got about 27 years under my belt as a motorcycle mechanic, so I've worked right through the change in fuel. "Bad" gas can be a whole lot of things, but when talking about age it nearly always comes down to oxidization. Pure gas can go about a year before it starts having issues, same was true for the MTBE years (was fully phased out by about 2000). Ethanol fuel can go about 3~4 months, though if you're in a HOT climate, a month might be showing problems. On a similar vein, if the fuel is kept in a sealed container (the new gas cans that don't vent) that's as full as possible (as little headspace/air), it can go longer. The reason for the short time is that the H2O it absorbs is introducing more oxygen that causes the fuel to "varnish" and go bad. It's no longer just the surface touching air, but now it's the moisture being pulled out of the air and into the fluid too....



Octane ratings have NOTHING to do with time before gas degradation. Sorry, you can think that all you want but it's not going to make it true. In some, rare, cases the higher octane fuel have less ethanol (or did, I haven't seen any in a long time), but it's a safe assumption that the base fuel platform is the same for any given brand, and the Only difference is extra additives to rise the octane.



Get into additives like StaBil, and you can get most of a year out of ethanol fuel in most cases (extreme heat and a nearly empty tank would be the major exceptions). I'm sure most of the additives are the same, I've just been a StaBil user for decades and haven't had need to look elsewhere.





If you have small engines that see only occasional use and want to give them the best fighting chance, drain the carb float bowl after every use. No, running it till it stops is not good enough (it'll actually make things worse). Then, fully top off the fuel tank. I've made a lot of money over the years cleaning motorcycle carbs in the spring, the people who heed my advice never come back (well, for that service, it usually earns me a lot of Other work though). those who don't, I get to see year after year after year....

I drain my carbs out of all my small engines. I still occasionally have to clean old carbs out because of the ethonal eating the varnish and lacquer out of the fuel system. I believe this is why we are seeing these fuel systems filter and screens plugging up in these 3rd gen 4runners. The ethonal is eating the systems out cleaning it out. I just wonder what components in our systems can be damaged by it?

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

 

[Rpreme]

I've been getting 15-16 mpg with 33' tires. Stock motor, stock body with no armor or added weight.

 

[jgue467]

My 01 gets between 15.5-16 (on a good day).

Interesting part is my '15 sequoia w/a 5.7 gets better mileage, not by much but it does, 16.5 (mixed in town and highway), haha.

 

[lewiswilkinson]

I get around 550KM to a tank in my Gen3 1kz-te auto. 2" lift and 33" muddies

 

[Dieselchessy]

Just did 249.8 miles on 14.49 gallons for just over 17mpg. That’s with Costco regular.

That’s with the Volvo MAF in 98 5sp, stock except 265/70r16 BFG AT T/A’s.

I warm up to 120 water temp before rolling