fourfive
Senior Member
If the inner cv was separated, wouldn't there be other symptoms as well such as clicking?
Bad vibration @50-60mph WAY worse in 4-Hi
- Thread starter redstar
- Start date
If the inner cv was separated, wouldn't there be other symptoms as well such as clicking?
redstar
New member
Ya, the inner CVs aren't separated. I got under the truck and checked just now. Tie rod ends are next on the list I guess.
redstar
New member
All I did was replace the LBJs, CV axles and replaced the oil in the diffs and the transfer case. I did that all at once so I have no idea which one did the trick(however temporary it was... ).
fourfive
Senior Member
What is you mid hub to fender measurement?
Do you have a 1" diff drop?
I get vibration at 55+mph but in AWD only when pressing the gas but goes away soon as I let off the gas or if I put it in neutral. My previous mid hub to fender measurements with my lift was:
front: ~22.75-23"
But after I changed out my 890s for superflex, I turned up my front coils to compensate for the superflex & my current mid up to fender is:
front: ~23-23.25"
There did not appear to be a noticeable change in the steepness of my CV angles but I'm wondering if the .25" increase in height may be causing the vibration. Something I may take a closer look at once I get a few other maintenance projects out of the way. Was just wondering if you tried lowering your front to see if the addresses the vibration?
redstar
New member
Ya, my mid-hub to fender is 23.75" on the driver side and 24" on the passenger side.
Dont have the diff. drop. From what alot of what the 'veterans' on this forum say, I've gathered that it barely changes the angle of the CVs at the expense of changing the operating angle of the front diff so they don't even bother.
Ya I always get vibration at that speed but as soon as I turn on AWD it gets way worse. From what I've read, the CVs can definitely handle these angles but its really hard on the boots due to the rubbing. Once they crack and you start losing grease and dirt gets inside thats when you really have a problem.
No, I haven't lowered. Nor do I want to... its too much work.
I did some reading about post-lift vibrations on 1st gen tacos on tacomaworld and those guys are saying that its likely the bearings in the diff that the CVs sit in that are causing the vibrations.
Longer upper control arms might actually decrease the CV angles more than the diff drop. and also widen the stance of the vehicle by about a half inch on each side.
Sorry it took me so long to respond, I was out of town for work.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
It'll come back. I thought the same thing on mine after I did LBJ & Tie Rods and greasing the driveline (you've done that right?), I guess just resetting the parts made it stiff for a few days. One week later it was back again and steady.
Did you ever have your tires checked and balanced? That was about 50% of the issue for me. Other was worn tie rods and blown shocks. But now my tires are cupped so it's not completely gone, your tires might be in the same condition.
kadegrizzard
New member
If you have aftermarket wheels like me it could be the wheels because i had a vibration from 45-50 mph and we switched the right front with the left rear wheel and the vibration is totally gone other than when your turning right and your depending on the left rear wheel and also you can look in the rear view and see the tire jumping around like its none of your business so i now know my solution to my vibrations
redstar
New member
I've got the stock 5-stars and ive done a tire rotation already :S
redstar
New member
I really doubt it, theyre not loose at all.
fourfive
Senior Member
Do you have the adjustable front coilovers with the threaded shock body? If it's the other kind then yes I can see it being more work to make ride height adjustments.
Not sure if you saw the earlier thread about the vibration clearing up after lowering the front but something you still may want to consider or atleast not rule out especially if it's between lowering the front vs spending more money replacing parts, unless it is replacing worn parts. Worst case, if you lower the front and the vibration is still there, you can always raise it back to where you had it.
D Farms
New member
so your vibration is most definitely caused by your massive lift. a stock truck has 2" of up travel and 4-5" of down travel, if you are riding at about 4" of lift guess how much down travel you have, and guess what haplening to your cv joints. the inner cv joint is a tripod that can move in and out, when the tire droops all the way the cv joint can start to vibrate and even destroy itself. because you are riding around at nearly full droop all the time, you are putting a lot of stress on the inner cv joint and the outer joint as well.
now the diff drop has been debated a lot, however no actual evidence has ever linked a failed diff to the diff drop, so drop it. you want to know what the people that actually wheel their trucks are doing, we put 1-2" of lift up front to give better clearance but retain the majority of the down travel because the ride and performance is better. trust me the front of your rig has plenty of clearance, the gas tank in the rear and the hitch are the low hanging points abd thats why its beneficial to lift the rear more.
if you dont want the goofy looking rake, consider running a progressive body lift, that brings the fron of the truck up and leaves the back the same, giving a leveled look.
tldr: lower your lift to the first perch. run a diff drop, consider a progressive body lift.
now the diff drop has been debated a lot, however no actual evidence has ever linked a failed diff to the diff drop, so drop it. you want to know what the people that actually wheel their trucks are doing, we put 1-2" of lift up front to give better clearance but retain the majority of the down travel because the ride and performance is better. trust me the front of your rig has plenty of clearance, the gas tank in the rear and the hitch are the low hanging points abd thats why its beneficial to lift the rear more.
if you dont want the goofy looking rake, consider running a progressive body lift, that brings the fron of the truck up and leaves the back the same, giving a leveled look.
tldr: lower your lift to the first perch. run a diff drop, consider a progressive body lift.
redstar
New member
So I dropped the diff, but I can't quite decide if I want to put the eibachs on the 1st or 2nd perch of the tundra billies. I wont have access to a garage for 8 months so I cant put in the progressive body lift quite yet. I really dont want a goofy rake for that long.
I read that 2nd perch on the tundra billies is ~equivalent to 1st perch on the taco billies. Could I get away with 2nd perch?
And thanks a bunch guys, I really appreciate all your input! Even though it's not always what I want to hear :lalala:
I read that 2nd perch on the tundra billies is ~equivalent to 1st perch on the taco billies. Could I get away with 2nd perch?
And thanks a bunch guys, I really appreciate all your input! Even though it's not always what I want to hear :lalala:
redstar
New member
Try rotating your tires. If that doesnt work, balance the wheels. If that doesnt work, maybe its the alignment. If it isnt that, get under there start grabbing shit and shaking it to see if theres any play. Stuff like cv's, ball joints, control arms and tie rods. If theres lots of play in ways there shouldnt be, replace the part.
redstar
New member
Grab the shaft and shake it. No pun intended hahaha. It should only rotate. A little bit of movement is ok methinks
redstar
New member
Dropped em to the first perch. Its only dropped 3/4" to 23" drivers and 23 1/4" passenger, but i bet it'll settle a bit.
Vibes are 99% gone. I get less vibes in 4WD @90km/h now(the vibe sweet spot) than I used to in 2WD.
Thanks a bunch amigos. I owe you one.... Or two.... Or more haha
Vibes are 99% gone. I get less vibes in 4WD @90km/h now(the vibe sweet spot) than I used to in 2WD.
Thanks a bunch amigos. I owe you one.... Or two.... Or more haha
