BAFX on board now

[octanejunkie]

Ordered a BAFX 34tS Bluetooth OBDII scan tool from Amazon last week and been playing around withthe free version of Torque Pro.

Some of the output you get is funny, but some, like temps, are kinda key

I have also been playing around with engine load and over drive, very interesting to see what the ECU thinks under various conditions

FWIW, I've never seen my coolant temp over 192 degrees F and I guess until I get the Pro version of the app, Trans Temp is not an option in the Lite version of the app.

I know [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] showed his setup briefly in a video re trans temp and overdrive, but I'm curious about wiring this scanner in and adding a power-on relay since the ODB port is full-time live and I don't want to drain my battery nor keep removing the scanner.

 

[theesotericone]

I know [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] showed his setup briefly in a video re trans temp and overdrive, but I'm curious about wiring this scanner in and adding a power-on relay since the ODB port is full-time live and I don't want to drain my battery nor keep removing the scanner.

As far as parasitic drain goes, it depends on the scanner. I leave mine in full time and it's never been an issue even after sitting for a week. Mines a ScanTool.

As far as OD and trans temp? 20 degrees. I have a trans gauge in my 97. I was curious to see how much of a difference OD makes. Keep in mind I'm also fully armored and running 33.6's. In my rig at 70 MPH at 4500' elevation in 3rd gear I run 3200RPM's. WIth OD on I run just under 2500 RPM's. Trans temp with OD on gets really close to 200. With 3rd gear I've never seen it over 180. So I leave OD off and it will stay off until I re-gear. I'd rather put that stress on my motor then my trans.

 

[octanejunkie]

As far as parasitic drain goes, it depends on the scanner. I leave mine in full time and it's never been an issue even after sitting for a week. Mines a ScanTool.

As far as OD and trans temp? 20 degrees. I have a trans gauge in my 97. I was curious to see how much of a difference OD makes. Keep in mind I'm also fully armored and running 33.6's. In my rig at 70 MPH at 4500' elevation in 3rd gear I run 3200RPM's. WIth OD on I run just under 2500 RPM's. Trans temp with OD on gets really close to 200. With 3rd gear I've never seen it over 180. So I leave OD off and it will stay off until I re-gear. I'd rather put that stress on my motor then my trans.

Haha, cool. Thanks!

I'm really interested to see what my trans temps are when driving 395 to Reno (like the uphill to Tom's place, etc) as well as looking at Engine Load vs. MPG. I drive between Gardnerville, NV and Mojave without stopping for gas so the more efficiently I can drive the better.

 

[phattyduck]

The secret for low trans temp is to keep the torque converter locked. It will only lock in 3rd of OD is off, and it unlocks in OD if the load is too high, but well before it will downshift to 3rd...

It isn't specifically that OD causes high trans temps, its that the torque converter often unlocks in OD and that causes high trans temps.

There's not way to solve the problem in 1st/2nd as the torque converter never locks in those gears.

-Charlie

 

[Septimius]

i played around a bunch with trying to add customs pids for trans temp and had no luck, you may be right about trans temp

re: coolant temp, i'm normally around 201 up here and i'm fair certain it's quite a bit cooler than by you.

 

[phattyduck]

re: coolant temp, i'm normally around 201 up here and i'm fair certain it's quite a bit cooler than by you.

Your thermostat jiggle valve is upside down... It should be at 6 o'clock, unlike most motors (assuming you have a V6!).

-Charlie

 

[alumarine]

I'm curious about wiring this scanner in and adding a power-on relay since the ODB port is full-time live and I don't want to drain my battery nor keep removing the scanner.

I picked up one of these.
It makes it easy to turn it off as long as I remember to.

https://www.amazon.com/Tonsiki-Female-Diagnostic-Extension-battery/dp/B00UR5XBMW

 

[octanejunkie]

I picked up one of these.
It makes it easy to turn it off as long as I remember to.

https://www.amazon.com/Tonsiki-Female-Diagnostic-Extension-battery/dp/B00UR5XBMW

I'll check it out, thanks!

The secret for low trans temp is to keep the torque converter locked. It will only lock in 3rd of OD is off, and it unlocks in OD if the load is too high, but well before it will downshift to 3rd...

It isn't specifically that OD causes high trans temps, its that the torque converter often unlocks in OD and that causes high trans temps.

There's not way to solve the problem in 1st/2nd as the torque converter never locks in those gears.

-Charlie

Yup yup

AFAIK, OD doesn't even apply in 1st or 2nd gears in the 4runner, so I don't bother to hit the button when I down shift into these gears - fact or fallacy?

 

[octanejunkie]

I picked up one of these.
It makes it easy to turn it off as long as I remember to.

https://www.amazon.com/Tonsiki-Female-Diagnostic-Extension-battery/dp/B00UR5XBMW

The switch is good, and I wish it were closer to the other end of the cable, but also I would rather hardwire it into the switched radio power wiring since it's all right there. Personally I don't need another thing to have to remember to turn off or on :shocked:

I might just buy this and bypass the switch and direct wire it
Thanks [MENTION=134889]alumarine[/MENTION]!

 

[ltsr]

I have the same device on my 2001. It's plugged in full time since March of this year. My truck sometimes sits for a week without being driven and have never had the battery drain.

I noticed you did not have trans. temp on your screenshot. If your truck is a 99+ you can get the trans temp with the device you purchased.

 

[octanejunkie]

I have the same device on my 2001. It's plugged in full time since March of this year. My truck sometimes sits for a week without being driven and have never had the battery drain.

I noticed you did not have trans. temp on your screenshot. If your truck is a 99+ you can get the trans temp with the device you purchased.

I need to purchase the $5 app to get Trans Temp - I've just been lazy

 

[JayRolla]

There is no drain leaving it plugged in. That little led wont drain anything. I have one on my adapter and also another on my fog lights that say lit and never had a charging issue.

 

[phattyduck]

AFAIK, OD doesn't even apply in 1st or 2nd gears in the 4runner, so I don't bother to hit the button when I down shift into these gears - fact or fallacy?

Overdrive is 4th gear. It is non-sensical to ask whether it applies to 1st or 2nd gear. (there are overdrive boxes that you can add to old-school transmissions that can be engaged at any time, like the range box that is part of the 4WD transfer case... that doesn't apply here)

Turning overdrive off just turns the transmission into a 3-speed automatic. If the shifter is in the "2" position, the transmission will use 1st and 2nd, "1" locks it in first gear. So, I suppose in that sense the button has no effect in positions 1/2.

-Charlie

 

[3bears]

The switch is good, and I wish it were closer to the other end of the cable, but also I would rather hardwire it into the switched radio power wiring since it's all right there. Personally I don't need another thing to have to remember to turn off or on :shocked:

I might just buy this and bypass the switch and direct wire it
Thanks [MENTION=134889]alumarine[/MENTION]!

I use the switch most of the time, its no big deal, but since so many people are saying the draw is so minimal, I might get rid of it, I'm tired of it being another cable in my way across my console

funny , I did take a silver sharpie and label "ON" till I got used to it. my son one day looked and asked what is that thing and why does it say " NO"

I dont know what the pro version costs now, that's what I run, and it is nice having the extra features , mostly the trans temp

 

[mtbtim]

I use the switch most of the time, its no big deal, but since so many people are saying the draw is so minimal, I might get rid of it, I'm tired of it being another cable in my way across my console

funny , I did take a silver sharpie and label "ON" till I got used to it. my son one day looked and asked what is that thing and why does it say " NO"

I dont know what the pro version costs now, that's what I run, and it is nice having the extra features , mostly the trans temp

I use the same switch and labeled the sides on and off. I put velcro on the reader and velcroed it in the space under the ashtray. I ziptied the the extra cable under the dash and I think it's a decently clean look. I turn it off every time I leave the car. It's habit now. Sometimes my vehicle can sit for a couple weeks if I'm out on a fire so I'd hate to come back to a dead battery. Also, the OBDII port faces down and gravity works against you to hold the reader in on a bumpy road and it can fall out. Finally, since the reader hangs down, I've bumped it with my right foot a couple times and it would suck to crack your port. So, the on/off switch does more than just offer you the ability to shut the reader off. I highly recommend this switch to anyone who uses an OBDII reader.

 

[octanejunkie]

I use the same switch and labeled the sides on and off. I put velcro on the reader and velcroed it in the space under the ashtray. I ziptied the the extra cable under the dash and I think it's a decently clean look. I turn it off every time I leave the car. It's habit now. Sometimes my vehicle can sit for a couple weeks if I'm out on a fire so I'd hate to come back to a dead battery. Also, the OBDII port faces down and gravity works against you to hold the reader in on a bumpy road and it can fall out. Finally, since the reader hangs down, I've bumped it with my right foot a couple times and it would suck to crack your port. So, the on/off switch does more than just offer you the ability to shut the reader off. I highly recommend this switch to anyone who uses an OBDII reader.

All good info! I thought about splicing into switched power from the radio and velcro-installing the reader behind the dash/console trim, where the stock amp used to be - out of sight and out of harm's way.

 

[Septimius]

Your thermostat jiggle valve is upside down... It should be at 6 o'clock, unlike most motors (assuming you have a V6!).

-Charlie

not sure if you're messing with me or being serious lol

run that by me again?

 

[phattyduck]

not sure if you're messing with me or being serious lol

run that by me again?

Sadly, not messing with you.

The jiggle valve is the little loose bit of metal that is there to pass air bubbles. For whatever reason, the 5vz needs it on the bottom. Almost all other engines it should be at the top (where air bubbles go!).

-Charlie

 

[Septimius]

Sadly, not messing with you.

The jiggle valve is the little loose bit of metal that is there to pass air bubbles. For whatever reason, the 5vz needs it on the bottom. Almost all other engines it should be at the top (where air bubbles go!).

-Charlie

interesting

I havent done anything with the thermostat, it was replaced last when the timing belt was done at 118k.

you think it's worth delving into at this point? i have about a month to go before the high ambient temp maxes out at 55

 

[habanero]

Another switch for the obd II port, mine is just a red lighted switch far enough down not to bug me and easy to see as a reminder. Many times I leave it on, if the start battery ever did run down I've still got the house battery to get me going.

Ol' copy/paste from the build thread:

Also put a switch in on the OBDII port. Got a reader and want to leave it in but the port's normally always hot. I'm trying out Torque Pro for curiosity. It's the Violet wire that gets the switch.
From a post by JamesD:
The only 4 pins on the OBD 2 connector is 2,4,5 and 16.
2 is White and that is the serial data line
4 is White/Black is ground
5 is Brown/Red and that is ground
16 is Violet and that is fused 7.5 amp 12 volts

I haven't had a problem with the thing being in my way, maybe because girl feet.