ball joint play video how bad is it?

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twitchee2 said:
I would change those ASAP.
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Thanks for the input!
I have it on the list for sure, 200 bucks well spent. Mainly i'm debating if my trip this weekend needs to be called off.. doing research on this sucks because all you see is images of people loosing their freaking wheel. My seems like its still got one trip left on it. I was pulling on that pry bar pretty dam hard.. IDK.
 
4runnerfiend said:
Thanks for the input!
I have it on the list for sure, 200 bucks well spent. Mainly i'm debating if my trip this weekend needs to be called off.. doing research on this sucks because all you see is images of people loosing their freaking wheel. My seems like its still got one trip left on it. I was pulling on that pry bar pretty dam hard.. IDK.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't risk it.
 
Brutalguyracing said:
3rds gens are no joke
Change emm asap


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yeah bummed I called off the trip. I was taking the wife and kid on this trip so it's just not worth it.
hopefully doing them this weekend if I can get the local Toyota to match online. or I'll just order them for next week. Seems like a pretty "easy" project
 
Change them ASAP before the do more damage. Mine did not move that much I thought I could go a little bit longer but it was not a good idea. Also consider replacing the uppers as well. I replaced mine with OEM because of the write ups on the after market failing at 50k mine had 200k ( note the stretch on the upper ball joint shaft).
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4x4run4x4fun said:
Change them ASAP before the do more damage. Mine did not move that much I thought I could go a little bit longer but it was not a good idea. Also consider replacing the uppers as well. I replaced mine with OEM because of the write ups on the after market failing at 50k mine had 200k ( note the stretch on the upper ball joint shaft).
cf8eb2aa733a8028f4cc90a6cc920b8e.jpg
f63299c6d8b686f03147ec29106c53ed.jpg
ad43b003e44223366852dbe5b0d88b08.jpg


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Ahh!! Thanks for the reinforcement
 
Just to save the trip, grab a $40 LBJ from the Locsl Parts Store to install in a couple hours. Then, when you get back, throw on some OEMs!
 
As a general rule, if you can feel any play (clicking) in a ball joint order the parts right away, if it gets to the point that you can see it, consider it unsafe to drive.

Yes some people drive it anyway and get away with it, but losing a wheel can really ruin your day.
 
Look on line order factory OEM from high volume Toyota dealers that have online discount sites. I got all mine at 50% off dealership prices. Sorry some times it takes a while to get them sent.
I spoke to a dealership I ordered from they would let me pick them up at there shipping location. Only if i was close to them and I ordered and payed on the discount website. I ordered the lower ball joints mounted on the bolt on part and only pressed the upper. That made it so much easier. The only warning I can tell you is Beware of all the other parts you see you want to replace since you are already that deep....$$$$$.....the home mechanic curse.......

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4x4run4x4fun said:
Look on line order factory OEM from high volume Toyota dealers that have online discount sites. I got all mine at 50% off dealership prices. Sorry some times it takes a while to get them sent.
I spoke to a dealership I ordered from they would let me pick them up at there shipping location. Only if i was close to them and I ordered and payed on the discount website. I ordered the lower ball joints mounted on the bolt on part and only pressed the upper. That made it so much easier. The only warning I can tell you is Beware of all the other parts you see you want to replace since you are already that deep....$$$$$.....the home mechanic curse.......

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Called my local dealership 185 each side. 99.00 each online 1.30 for each bolt. Ordered both sides plus 8 new bolts. Plus the dealership didn’t even stock them. Project for next week!
 
Worst thing Toyota did on the 3rd-gen, and it did not even issue a recall nor make a recommendation on how often to replace it. Depends, of course on how hard one wheels but at last there should be some mileage figure to go by (i.e., take worst-case scenario of heavy use of un-modded truck).
 
"While you are there" I have found is one of the best and worse sayings that you can hear. Best because you will look beyond the immediate problem and fix any other items. This can save multiple tear downs... Worse because it often costs me more than I have a budget for.... Example lower Ball joint goes out, then I have to replace worn upper and lower other ball joints (not just one side) then control arm bushings (bushings failed). Worn Front shocks (bushings failed) new boots on cv axles (starting to fail), front brake pads (almost when out) new strut tops (due to worn out rubber). Since my lower went out and broke during driving a new brake hydraulic hose and pipe to caliper... All was not in the original plan. The old can of worms theory best of luck and make sure to use locktite and follow torque specs

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4x4run4x4fun said:
"While you are there" I have found is one of the best and worse sayings that you can hear. Best because you will look beyond the immediate problem and fix any other items. This can save multiple tear downs... Worse because it often costs me more than I have a budget for.... Example lower Ball joint goes out, then I have to replace worn upper and lower other ball joints (not just one side) then control arm bushings (bushings failed). Worn Front shocks (bushings failed) new boots on cv axles (starting to fail), front brake pads (almost when out) new strut tops (due to worn out rubber). Since my lower went out and broke during driving a new brake hydraulic hose and pipe to caliper... All was not in the original plan. The old can of worms theory best of luck and make sure to use locktite and follow torque specs

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Click to expand...

"While you are there" is the rule for any old vehicle. Honestly I have not touched the entire front end of one of mine. Vehicle is barely driven, but I know the rack it shot, shocks are pudding, and everything except end links are original. Control arm bushings are likely in need of replacing as well. Op, rather than do 5 separate teardowns and alignments(which wastes time and money) in what could be a short span, start saving up and replace everything you think is more than halfway past its lifespan at once.

Just my opinion from wasting money in the past.
 
Am I the only one that thinks the video looks not bad? IMO the crowbar test is actually not that great of a way of determining the condition of the LBJs unless it's realllly bad. I believe the factory spec allows for something tiny like 1mm of play which is very difficult to observe by eye. It's a good method if you are using a special dial caliper to measure.

From now on I'll by doing not only the crowbar test, but also unbolting the large main bolt (maybe every few years) to feel how loose the joint is. There should be a fair amount of resistance when you try to move the ball & stud.
 
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