Ball Joint/Sway Bar Question

[Volley]

Hi all,

Beginning to do the work on my new to me 4Runner (1998 Auto 4WD) and I want to install new lower ball joints (I can see some leakage) and replace the sway bar bushings (which I can see are ripped and worn) hopefully this weekend and I have a couple of quick questions:

1. The truck feels "shakey" over bumps and sometimes wants to take flight almost over bumps. Are these two things notorious for causing this issue and are there other parts that I should replace while in there? I have new tie rod ends but not as comfortable on how to install them as I am on the ball joints.

2. What's the best source for OEM replacements and does anyone know if replacement bolts come with or do I need to order separately?

Oh and the steering feels stiff but seems to get easier when braking and turning (that seems weird to me) and steering wheel shimmies at highway speeds. Read the post on the steering bushings but need to read more before attempting this.

Thanks!
Volley

 

[Nelsonmd]

I would say....

1. LBJ's yes. sway bar, probably not. I had some serious shakiness over bumps and most of it was my suspension. It went away when I did my lift.

2. The best source I have found is Toyotapartsales.com. They have always had the lowest prices I have found. No, the bolts don't come with the LBJ's, you need to order those separately. search here, the numbers were recently posted for bolts.

 

[MTDewX8]

I just paid $35 for new washers and bushings from the stealer for the sway bar.

I thought way to much, but was there and planned on installing them this weekend, but its snowed again and I didn't feel like laying in it.

when it wasn't snowing I was busy with other things dam it.

 

[kakarot]

Volley,
Is it hard to do the LBJ, I'm planing on to do mine next month do you need any special tool to removed or put it back on. Let me know also picture and direction would greatly help us newbie.

Thanks

Hi all,

Beginning to do the work on my new to me 4Runner (1998 Auto 4WD) and I want to install new lower ball joints (I can see some leakage) and replace the sway bar bushings (which I can see are ripped and worn) hopefully this weekend and I have a couple of quick questions:

1. The truck feels "shakey" over bumps and sometimes wants to take flight almost over bumps. Are these two things notorious for causing this issue and are there other parts that I should replace while in there? I have new tie rod ends but not as comfortable on how to install them as I am on the ball joints.

2. What's the best source for OEM replacements and does anyone know if replacement bolts come with or do I need to order separately?

Oh and the steering feels stiff but seems to get easier when braking and turning (that seems weird to me) and steering wheel shimmies at highway speeds. Read the post on the steering bushings but need to read more before attempting this.

Thanks!
Volley

 

[Volley]

kakarot - I've never done them before but here are 2 pretty good write ups. Seems like a 1 on the difficulty scale to me at least.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...lace-3rd-gen-lower-ball-joints-pic-heavy.html

R&R Upper and Lower Ball Joints - TTORA Forum

 

[1985taylor1925]

Good advice from Nelson. I wouldnt worry about the sway bar stuff. My 4runner has the exact same issue yours does. In fact I have a pretty long thread on it, http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/71231-jitters-bumps.html. Theres some good info on it. But I replaced my sway bar bushings some time ago, and it made no difference. I would say that lower ball joints are the best place to start. I have uppers and lowers sitting im my garage, which Im gonna instal hopefully this saturday. I really think the ball joints are the main cause. I also replaced my steering rack a few months ago with a rebuilt rack as mine was going bad, and got the poly bushings, and tie rod ends. That didnt fix the shakes either. So, I had to learn the hard and expensive way. You can learn through my mistakes! Definately start with the lowers. I bet that makes a huge difference. I will be posting in the above thread after I replace my uppers and lowers this weekend.

 

[Avarice]

One warning I will give you is that the LBJ's can be a complete pain in the ass to seperate from the outer tie rod end (tre). If you use a fork tool to seperate them, you will almost definitely tear the TRE boot and thus need to replace it. What's a better idea is to A) get a tie rod puller, either buy it or rent it B) Replace the TRE's ($100 a side) in which case you don't have to seperate them and take both the LBJ and TRE off together.

You're gonna need an alignment after this most likely, and definitely if you do the TRE's.

 

[Volley]

Good advice. I agree on the pickle fork. Used one to replace my UCAs on my FJ and you are correct they inevitably tear up the boots. I also have some new TRE's I will probably do it all at one. Buy some needed new tires then get an alignment.

 

[BrianSD_42]

Are these two things notorious for causing this issue

Well I don't think that your sway bar has anything to do with the feeling of shaky or loose steering. That could be from the steering rack, steering bushings, or LBJ. Many of us run without a sway bar at all. I don't have one installed at moment and my steering is nice and tight, drives like new.

If the LBJ fails it could cost you your life - so don't put it off. And as Nelson mentioned use Toyota parts for LBJ, not aftermarket! There are several threads of people who didn't use Toyota for the LBJ only to suffer major LBJ fail within 1 year.

Good luck!

:cheers:

 

[Volley]

Unexpected day off so going to tackle this today. Going to PB the bolts, run and get some parts, let soak while I install trans cooler then see how it goes!

 

[kakarot]

Avarice, will this tool work I found two
Search: tie rod puller | Tie Rod End Puller | AutoZone.com

OEM/Pitman tie rod arm puller for compact cars and smaller pitman arms (27022) | Pitman Arm Puller | AutoZone.com

One warning I will give you is that the LBJ's can be a complete pain in the ass to seperate from the outer tie rod end (tre). If you use a fork tool to seperate them, you will almost definitely tear the TRE boot and thus need to replace it. What's a better idea is to A) get a tie rod puller, either buy it or rent it B) Replace the TRE's ($100 a side) in which case you don't have to seperate them and take both the LBJ and TRE off together.

You're gonna need an alignment after this most likely, and definitely if you do the TRE's.

 

[Volley]

OK so didn't get to do the ball joints today as the parts will not be in until tomorrow. However, I did do the transmission cooler install today. No pictures as I just followed the write up on this forum but I will say that if you are on the fence of unsure of being able to do this mod, DO IT! The satisfaction of doing it myself and the relief of pink milkshake avoidance is awesome!

 

[kakarot]

What are the up & down of doing the external cooler if I'm not hauling anything.
I know one thing beside to prevent getting the pink milk shake.

Here is some question that I have
1.How does it work in cold weather(live MN) will I just start the car like the original one and drive or will I have to warm the engine first before I put into gear and drive.
2. what is the advantage over the RAD trans cooler(beside pink milk shake)
3. How is the original temp holding compare to external cooler temp.(which one are stable)

OK so didn't get to do the ball joints today as the parts will not be in until tomorrow. However, I did do the transmission cooler install today. No pictures as I just followed the write up on this forum but I will say that if you are on the fence of unsure of being able to do this mod, DO IT! The satisfaction of doing it myself and the relief of pink milkshake avoidance is awesome!

 

[YotaZach85]

One warning I will give you is that the LBJ's can be a complete pain in the ass to seperate from the outer tie rod end (tre). If you use a fork tool to seperate them, you will almost definitely tear the TRE boot and thus need to replace it. What's a better idea is to A) get a tie rod puller, either buy it or rent it B) Replace the TRE's ($100 a side) in which case you don't have to seperate them and take both the LBJ and TRE off together.

You're gonna need an alignment after this most likely, and definitely if you do the TRE's.

Avarice, will this tool work I found two
Search: tie rod puller | Tie Rod End Puller | AutoZone.com

OEM/Pitman tie rod arm puller for compact cars and smaller pitman arms (27022) | Pitman Arm Puller | AutoZone.com

No need for special tools, smack the knuckle where the TRE goes though. This will shock the knuckle and the TRE will pop right out every time, you will need a BFH for this and swing it like you mean it! I use the same method with ball joints but usually don't have to swing as hard.

 

[Volley]

Picked up my ball joints today and got a quick question. Is this for installing a zerk fitting:

 

[YotaZach85]

Picked up my ball joints today and got a quick question. Is this for installing a zerk fitting:

Yup. They're m6 zerks.