ball joints

mytyeerinpie

New member
I been searchin to see what ball joints people use, can't find anything. I was just going to go to Rockauto and get some, but is there a certain brand that works better than others? Also I hit up the Roger at 4crawler for spacers.
 
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I was just looking on rock auto and they list a moog "problem solver" ball joint and a standard ball joint. What's the difference? Sorry for the thread high-jack
 
If you want them to last, get OEM toyota ones. They cost a fortune but outlast anything else.
 
Too late. Anyone know a good tutorial for ball joint replacement? It appears from what i have found that you don't need a ball joint press for these but i cant find anything anywhere about installation
 
Too late. Anyone know a good tutorial for ball joint replacement? It appears from what i have found that you don't need a ball joint press for these but i cant find anything anywhere about installation

It's nothing, you don't need a tutorial. The top is four studs coming up through the a-arm. If the bolts are too frozen with gunk, just cut 'em, you've got longer ones in your balljoint kit from 4Crawler. The bottom one is a castle nut - soak it down with PB Blast or whatever, give it a couple beers, then crank the castle nut off. You'll probably want a cheater bar. To get the bottom stud out of the a-arm though you'll want a jaw puller or a BFH, and maybe some flame. Don't even think about using a pickle fork. It will send a pickle fork crying for it's mama.

The first time I did mine, I think was the first time they'd been done ever, the bottom balljoints were seriously frozen in there. I had to use a nutbuster on the castle nuts, and then spent about 3 hours each alternatively torching the hell out of it and beating the snot out of it to get the lower ones free. If you run into trouble, and if your fabricator buddy has air, it might be worth taking the rig and a 12pack to his place and have him put an air hammer on it.
 
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It's nothing, you don't need a tutorial. The top is four studs coming up through the a-arm. If the bolts are too frozen with gunk, just cut 'em, you've got longer ones in your balljoint kit from 4Crawler. The bottom one is a castle nut - soak it down with PB Blast or whatever, give it a couple beers, then crank the castle nut off. You'll probably want a cheater bar. To get the bottom stud out of the a-arm though you'll want a jaw puller or a BFH, and maybe some flame. Don't even think about using a pickle fork. It will send a pickle fork crying for it's mama.

The first time I did mine, I think was the first time they'd been done ever, the bottom balljoints were seriously frozen in there. I had to use a nutbuster on the castle nuts, and then spent about 3 hours each alternatively torching the hell out of it and beating the snot out of it to get the lower ones free. If you run into trouble, and if your fabricator buddy has air, it might be worth taking the rig and a 12pack to his place and have him put an air hammer on it.

Cool, I think I can get it by myself. I have pretty much everything but the torch and the jaw puller. I can borrow one though. The only other thing is cutting out the notch for the spacers thats going to be an issue. I dont have enough air to push my angle grinder. The instructions say to cut out 1/2 inch which isn't much, hopefully my dremel can do it. If not I'm not sure what I'll do.
 
Cool, I think I can get it by myself. I have pretty much everything but the torch and the jaw puller. I can borrow one though. The only other thing is cutting out the notch for the spacers thats going to be an issue. I dont have enough air to push my angle grinder. The instructions say to cut out 1/2 inch which isn't much, hopefully my dremel can do it. If not I'm not sure what I'll do.

I had a hard time getting in there with my angle grinder, actually, so a dremel is exactly what I used. Expect to go through at least one package of cutting wheels. :)
 
Perfect! Sounds like I am in business then expect to see this with a ton of pics maybe a video next weekend. I have at least one tube of cutoff wheels might go pick up another before next weekend.
 
Dang, had a tough time finding any data on this...thanks guys! Any other advice sure welcome on these ball joints. Looking for the best place to buy and the best brand...seems like most folks say oem.
 
Dang, had a tough time finding any data on this...thanks guys! Any other advice sure welcome on these ball joints. Looking for the best place to buy and the best brand...seems like most folks say oem.

Man, I have had my MOOG "problem solvers" from RockAuto Parts Catalog in for about a yea now, or whenever I posted this thread, and they have given me no problems. I crawl it pretty hard and it is my daily driver. I would get them. They angle them out a bit more than OEM to make up for ball joint spacers and offroading. I like them so far, I'' check back in a year or so and see if anything has changed. I agree with Kid, I like my MOOG, but Toyota engineers know what they are doing. If it was a 3rd gen plus I would get OEM, but since I got my 1st gen I have been experimenting and it is working out just fine.


Rockauto is the best place I have found to buy parts, they are hella cheap, and super fast shipping. I buy all my parts for my '79 MG Midget, my '87 4Runner and my '07 Sequoia from them. I have converted all my friends to use them too, my buddy found a serpentine belt there (same exact belt) for $30 less than Autozone and O'Rielly's wanted. for it.
 
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I really like Moog/666 parts, but it's hard to go wrong with OEM.

You're too tired to post...:doh:

Moog problem solvers are definitely the way to go. I swapped out all the front end components on my former rig with them when I swapped to 35s. After 2 years and lots of trail riding that thing still tracked straight and true on the highway.
 

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