BaseRunners 1989 22RE Build thread

Got my Runner back today. My mechanic said due to the misfire my timing was off, and it looked like somebody had messed with the valves :censored: He put in the new injectors, cleaned up the rail, and fixed the timing. That thing feels so smooth and peppy now that its firing on all cylinders, its a night and day difference. I gotta say, I'm falling in love all over again! heres a quick list of what I've done so far, Timing chain, oil pump, water pump, fuel pump, radiator, thermostat, valve cover gaskets, air filter, fuel filter, fuel injectors, fuel lines, battery, and rear brake shoes. The only things left to do before I start on the suspension is a blower motor resistor, plugs, wires and two rear drums. The fun continues :playball:
 
Ok I've changed water pump, thermostat, and radiator but on the way to work just now it started overheating. I asked a buddy of mine, and he said when I changed out the radiator I probably didn't have the heater on full blast and the radiator probably isn't full due to that. Now that I think about it I really don't remember if I did turn the heater on full blast. Rookie mistake. Yal think that's what it is? Let me know please.
 
Ok I've changed water pump, thermostat, and radiator but on the way to work just now it started overheating. I asked a buddy of mine, and he said when I changed out the radiator I probably didn't have the heater on full blast and the radiator probably isn't full due to that. Now that I think about it I really don't remember if I did turn the heater on full blast. Rookie mistake. Yal think that's what it is? Let me know please.

That's my guess too, I've had that issue with every Toyota I've had. The heater core can get air bound and cause a water flow issue. If the T-stat didn't have a steam hole in it already, I like to drill a very small hole on the housing to allow steam/air to pass through it after the cooling system has been open. Sometimes air will get trapped against the T-stat and it will fail to open because the air will not heat it up enough.
 
That's my guess too, I've had that issue with every Toyota I've had. The heater core can get air bound and cause a water flow issue. If the T-stat didn't have a steam hole in it already, I like to drill a very small hole on the housing to allow steam/air to pass through it after the cooling system has been open. Sometimes air will get trapped against the T-stat and it will fail to open because the air will not heat it up enough.

Thanks man, tomorrow I plan on getting some coolant and filling this thing up properly. That was a tense moment.
 
If the trouble turns out to be air bubbles, raise the front of the truck too. Then crank the heater and when the coolant starts moving it should push all the bubbles out.
 
Well went and got some anti-freeze. Took the cap off my radiator and started up the truck. Right away a big bubble came out and afterwards a few more bubbles looked like it was coming out. I let it run for a good 5 minutes and then I refilled the reservoir which was empty. I replaced the cap and went for a drive. During the drive it sort of idled rough for a god few seconds and the needle looked like it was threatening to go up, but it settled back down and after a hour of driving it was fine. The needle stayed in its place and didn't go up again. Am I in the clear with this problem or should I repeat these steps again tomorrow?
 
Are u running the T-stat with the bypass valve built into it? Part # 90916-03070. It'll keep ur temp from rising when using the heater.

Not to hijack the thread, but i installed several t stats trying to fix my overshoot problem. Ended up with this one^^^ from the 3.0 i believe.it definately helped a lot, but every so
often the temp goes up to about 3/4 of the gauge, so the issue still isnt 100% resolved. Next is new coolant temp sensor, see if that does the trick
 
Ok it's pretty cold up here. I just went out to start my runner and head to work. At first it wouldn't start, it would turn over but not start. After a few tries I finally got it to start. So I sat there to let it warm up, next thing you know it just died! Now I can't start it again. What's wrong?
 
Can you hear the fuel pump priming? That would be my first guess, your pump just shot itself in the head

Also, how was it running when you did finally get it to start?
 
Can you hear the fuel pump priming? That would be my first guess, your pump just shot itself in the head

Also, how was it running when you did finally get it to start?

It was idling like usual and warming up when suddenly it just died on me. It wants to start, it turns over and it feels like it will start but it just wont stick. I did smell some type of smoke after I got out of the car. You think my fuel pump is gone? If its just that I'll be happy, I hope its nothing major. Thanks for the reply man.
 
It was idling like usual and warming up when suddenly it just died on me. It wants to start, it turns over and it feels like it will start but it just wont stick. I did smell some type of smoke after I got out of the car. You think my fuel pump is gone? If its just that I'll be happy, I hope its nothing major. Thanks for the reply man.

My t4r did something like this and the problem was the efi fuse in the driver kick panel
 
Well im going to stick by my GUESS, what does everyone else think?

I think the OP should isolate instead of guessing. :)

Aram, check the EFI fuse like Pisa mentioned. If it looks good, pop that access hatch under the rear seat and check for 12v at the fuel pump with the key in the On position. If you have power there, it's a good bet the pump is dead. If you don't, short the check terminal under the hood and check again - if that works, you've probably got a bad Circuit Open Relay (in the passenger kick panel).
 

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