Battery/Alternator issue. Voltage is OK

greif07

New member
Long story short, during a 45 min drive, my battery light came on and went off after about 15 seconds. Got to my destination, parked the truck and it didn't start 5 hours later. I noticed the wipers seemed a little slow on the way but I attributed that to it being 2 degrees F out.

I got a jump and it fired up. I drove it 45 minutes back home without a problem. After sitting for another 8 hours, it cranked just fine. Shortly later, I left and after 10 minutes on the road, the battery light comes back on. I turned around and parked it in my garage.

Also, my battery is less than 5 months old. I let the truck sit for 2 hours and just checked the voltage. Battery was 12.04v. I started it and got a reading of 13.4v at idle.

The belt looks good and the alternator looks pretty clean (no oil leaks etc on it).

I don't see how the alternator could be the issue since the battery is getting a charge. Don't alternators either work or not work at all? Maybe a grounding issue?

Thanks in advance.
 
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No. Alternators don't work or not work at all. They go out. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't.

Could be a loose ground, could be the temp, could be your alternator.

Pull it and get it tested, see if that's the problem.
 
how old is the alternator? from the sound of it, you may have a bad alternator or bad connection at the battery terminal or corroded battery wires.
 
After you fix/replace the battery, upgrade your battery negative to chassis ground wire to 4 G.

That should bring your voltage up to 14.2.
 
After you fix/replace the battery, upgrade your battery negative to chassis ground wire to 4 G.

That should bring your voltage up to 14.2.

I like the way you specifically said "fix/replace the battery".

I tend to agree and a shorted battery can make your alternator do funny things as well as damage it.

Check your battery first by starting the truck for a couple of minutes then shut down and immediately disconnect a battery post.
Don't matter which post, it's to stop parasitic drain from electronics in the truck. Test the voltage with a DVM confirming it's 12.8 vdc.

If it's not, put a trickle charger on it and check it again is a few minutes and get that voltage up to 12.8 then pull the charger off.

Wait 1 hour then check again the voltage and if it's dropped to 12.5 or less, not good !

Investigate further on the battery via load test or just replace it.

This is $0 cost troubleshooting and really helps narrow out your choices of possible problems.
 
All of the above is good stuff. FYI Your voltage with the truck on should be above 14V.

Not sure if you are saying that about 3rd gens only or in general. I don't agree that voltage should be above 14. Many vehicles' voltage regulator won't allow it, and sometimes getting high voltage is an indicator of sulfation in the battery. And some vehicles do get above 14 all the time.

Battery voltage is a very complex subject, there is no absolute correct voltage on 12V systems. There are just too many variables.

:peace:
 
My voltage was about 13.6 when engine running at 2000 RPM for years.

My batteries would "go bad" after 2 years and i thought I had a drain issue.

Finally I upgraded the big-3 and now I'm seeing 14.2 at the Scanguage and my battery is no longer dead when sitting after a few days.

I think my system wasn't charging properly and the big 3 helped.
 
My voltage was about 13.6 when engine running at 2000 RPM for years.

My batteries would "go bad" after 2 years and i thought I had a drain issue.

Finally I upgraded the big-3 and now I'm seeing 14.2 at the Scanguage and my battery is no longer dead when sitting after a few days.

I think my system wasn't charging properly and the big 3 helped.

I fight that battle on the RV. 5 batteries, 4 of them 6V. Converter, Inverter, Generator, Alternator, continuous duty solenoids, and monitor panels. I have voltage drops all the time, every connection is a theoretical drop, but with so many cables and corrosion it's a not stop parade of issues. I run 2 batteries in my FJ62 with a home made isolation system and a 95 amp alternator, I had trouble with Optimas, but with just cheap batteries it seams to work fine.
 
My voltage was about 13.6 when engine running at 2000 RPM for years.

My batteries would "go bad" after 2 years and i thought I had a drain issue.

Finally I upgraded the big-3 and now I'm seeing 14.2 at the Scanguage and my battery is no longer dead when sitting after a few days.

I think my system wasn't charging properly and the big 3 helped.


Correct again ! A wet 6 cell lead-acid battery needs min. 13.8 volts to charge properly. If it goes over 13.8 by any more than 1 volt, that can also damage a 12 vdc wet cell.


This variance that folks see is normal as long as it's within this "window" of 13.8 to 14.8 vdc.


I just lifted this little tutorial from "Battery School" and it's most informative.


General Battery Care Procedures

Never let the electrolyte level of a wet battery fall below the plates. Lack of maintaining the electrolyte in a wet battery causes damage (sulfation) to the exposed portion of the plate which reduces capacity.


Never store a battery in a discharged state. The sulfate that forms during discharge should not be ignored for an extended time period because severe sulfation will take place sometimes, making the battery impossible to recharge fully.


Sulfation starts at voltages less than 12.4(6.2) and at specific gravity less than 1.225.
Always fill your serviceable, wet batteries with water (preferably distilled)...after they have been charged (provided the plates are covered). If the electrolyte level is at least above the plates, do not fill the battery until after recharge.

The electrolyte expands during charging and if you fill them before recharging, the electrolyte will possibly bubble out of the battery. The plates must be covered with electrolyte for recharge but be careful not to overfill.

Don't use battery strap that locks onto the battery posts for transporting battery. This type of device can physically damage the battery's internal connections.

Don't hammer battery cable clamps down on battery posts. This damages internal parts of the battery.

Don't add acid to a battery low on electrolyte solution. This increases the % acid above acceptable limits and causes pre-mature failure. Add only distilled water.

Don't use a fast charger that increases voltage across the battery terminals above 16 volts, especially when connected to the electrical system of the vehicle. A fast charger can damage sensitive electronic components.

Don't disconnect a battery cable while engine is running. This causes the charging voltage to rise since the voltage regulator loses its reference and cannot regulate the charging voltage. The higher voltage and voltage spikes can damage electronic components.

Always allow batteries to 'cool off' after charging. The cooling time is very important because heat is generated during the recharge and discharge cycles. Without the cooling time the heat grows, accelerating grid corrosion which is one of the major causes of battery failure.


Never charge a wet battery with a sealed (gel cell) battery charger. The wet battery needs the higher voltages to finish the charge and without it the batteries never come back to 100% and sulfation can occur.


Never charge a sealed (gel cell) battery with a wet battery charger. The higher voltages (above 14.8 volts) that a wet battery charger generates cause excessive gassing too fast for the sealed battery to recombine, causing dry-out and battery failure.

Always keep the tops and terminals of batteries clean and free of corrosion. The film on top of the battery can cause the current to migrate between the posts, accelerating self-discharge.


A fully charged battery will give you the best and longest service. Be sure the batteries are fully charged before testing or using in your vehicles.

Even a perfectly new battery that is discharged only will fail load testing. Various states of charge of a battery, without a drain or load, after the surface charge has dissipated, are:


12.66 volts = 100% charged
12.54 volts = 90% charged
12.45 volts = 80% charged
12.39 volts = 75% charged
12.27 volts = 60 % charged
12.18 volts = 50 % charged
11.97 volts = 25 % charged
11.76 volts = completely discharged

In situations where multiple batteries are connected in parallel, series or series1parallel, a replacement battery(s) should be of the same size, age and usage level as the companion.


As batteries age, their maintenance requirements change. Generally their specific gravity is higher. Gassing voltage goes up. This means longer charging time and/or higher finish rate (higher amperage at the end of charge). Usually, older batteries need to be watered more often. And, their capacity decreases.

Inactivity can be harmful to batteries. If they sit for several months, a 'boost' charge should be given; more frequently in warm climate (about once a month) than in cold (every 2-3 months). This is because batteries discharge faster at higher temperatures than at colder temperatures.


Monitoring either stabilized open circuit voltage or specific gravity will tell you when to charge and how much to charge batteries that are being stored.

Battery voltage should not be allowed to drop below 12.4 for 12-volt batteries or 6.2 for 6-volt batteries.

Specific gravity should not be allowed to drop below 1.225."
 
The fact that you mentioned that on your drive your wipers were moving a little slow suggests that the problem is the alternator. If your alt was working properly at 14+ volts then your wipers should have been working normally. My $.02
 
Not sure if you are saying that about 3rd gens only or in general. I don't agree that voltage should be above 14. Many vehicles' voltage regulator won't allow it, and sometimes getting high voltage is an indicator of sulfation in the battery. And some vehicles do get above 14 all the time.

Battery voltage is a very complex subject, there is no absolute correct voltage on 12V systems. There are just too many variables.

:peace:

Well this is a Toyota 4Runner forum....
 
If you have a DVM (digital volt meter), perform a digital voltage drop test on the charging system to see the condition of your battery cables.

Get the ALT tested as well.
 
Charge your battery over night. Leave it sit all day. See what voltage you have. If it stays above 12.6v start looking at the charging system.

Be it a bad alt or crappy wiring.

Rule of thumb is never let your battery go below 80%.

Anything I'm not driving is on a tender.
 

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