nc-grayson
Member
Greetings All,
I hate to start a new thread about a similar topic to something I asked a week ago, but I think it's time as now my issue has digressed from the original problem, and we're kinda on a new topic here, so for future searching, Im making a new thread as opposed to tacking on my old one:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...r-replacement-mounting-bracket-questions.html
Long story short: I replaced my dying parts store reman'd CS-144 upgrade with an OEM denso alternator I pulled out of the pick & pull for $13. I foolishly traded my oem denso in at the time of the CS-144 upgrade as a core deposit.
First things first, I had the denso i pulled from the p&p bench tested at autozone and it passed with flying colors.
Installed the new to me denso, and everything is kosher. Except for the fact that my battery light is now on on the dash. Not flickering, not intermittent, just on 24/7.
The only difference between today and when my dying CS-144 was installed is the actual difference in alternators as well as the electric plug. I had bought the harness/pigtail for the CS-144>toyota swap, so as to not hack and splice oem wiring. I simply removed this harness, and clipped the OEM connector into my new (used) OEM alternator. That's it.
And now the battery light is on.
I had to drive 45 miles yesterday with the battery light on. The numbers below are representative of when I got home, AFTER the 45 mile round-trip with the battery light on.
Resting with the engine off, the battery is putting out 12.86 volts, (again, AFTER a 45 mile trip, so I assume the alt was charging the battery those 45 miles even with the light on)
With the engine on, the battery is pushing 14.2 volts at idle, so I'm using those numbers in conjunction with the numbers at the parts store when they bench tested the alt to assume that yes, in fact, the alt is charging.
So why is my battery light on?
I've tested all of my connections, and they're sound. I've upgraded to the BIG 3 already, and all of those connections checked out as well. Fuses, included the 120 amp fusible-link alt fuse, are all tested and good.
is it possible for the new-to-me denso to pass the bench test with flying colors, put out 14.2 volts when running, AND STILL cause the battery light to come on?
Can an alt *appear* to pass every test on the bench and installed, yet still cause the battery light to come on because of worn brushes, IC regulator, or rectifier?
Literally the only difference between the two setups I've had is the CS-144 alternator and the aftermarket harness swapped back to OEM parts, and the addition of my battery light on the dash illuminated.
Kinda at a loss here.
I hate to start a new thread about a similar topic to something I asked a week ago, but I think it's time as now my issue has digressed from the original problem, and we're kinda on a new topic here, so for future searching, Im making a new thread as opposed to tacking on my old one:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...r-replacement-mounting-bracket-questions.html
Long story short: I replaced my dying parts store reman'd CS-144 upgrade with an OEM denso alternator I pulled out of the pick & pull for $13. I foolishly traded my oem denso in at the time of the CS-144 upgrade as a core deposit.
First things first, I had the denso i pulled from the p&p bench tested at autozone and it passed with flying colors.
Installed the new to me denso, and everything is kosher. Except for the fact that my battery light is now on on the dash. Not flickering, not intermittent, just on 24/7.
The only difference between today and when my dying CS-144 was installed is the actual difference in alternators as well as the electric plug. I had bought the harness/pigtail for the CS-144>toyota swap, so as to not hack and splice oem wiring. I simply removed this harness, and clipped the OEM connector into my new (used) OEM alternator. That's it.
And now the battery light is on.
I had to drive 45 miles yesterday with the battery light on. The numbers below are representative of when I got home, AFTER the 45 mile round-trip with the battery light on.
Resting with the engine off, the battery is putting out 12.86 volts, (again, AFTER a 45 mile trip, so I assume the alt was charging the battery those 45 miles even with the light on)
With the engine on, the battery is pushing 14.2 volts at idle, so I'm using those numbers in conjunction with the numbers at the parts store when they bench tested the alt to assume that yes, in fact, the alt is charging.
So why is my battery light on?
I've tested all of my connections, and they're sound. I've upgraded to the BIG 3 already, and all of those connections checked out as well. Fuses, included the 120 amp fusible-link alt fuse, are all tested and good.
is it possible for the new-to-me denso to pass the bench test with flying colors, put out 14.2 volts when running, AND STILL cause the battery light to come on?
Can an alt *appear* to pass every test on the bench and installed, yet still cause the battery light to come on because of worn brushes, IC regulator, or rectifier?
Literally the only difference between the two setups I've had is the CS-144 alternator and the aftermarket harness swapped back to OEM parts, and the addition of my battery light on the dash illuminated.
Kinda at a loss here.
