Best Aftermarket Trailer Hitch?

jbmccul

New member
I've got a 07 SE V6 that didn't come with the trailer hitch. Was wondering what different kinds you all have on your runners. After searching the forum the Curt hitch was popping up alot but I've heard it can need some cutting to install. I will mostly be using the hitch for a bike rack but also as a recovery point.
 
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I put the Curt on my '08 SR5 and it was super easy to do. Not sure what cutting you are referring to. The hitch comes with 4 bolt to attach to frame.
Will take about 1/2hour to install.
 
Thanks, i was hearing that it pushed in the underside of the rear bumper so some people did some trimming. Has the clearance with the bumper been an issue?
 
No trimming required on my rear bumper. Tightning the bots on to frame just above the resonator is the most challenging task. There is only a couple inches of clearance. I wonder if others were referring to mounting on a 5th gen?
 
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If its like mine It has no factory cutout for the hitch. the rear rollpan is solid across the bottom. It would need to be notched to install a factory hitch. Not sure about the Curt.
 
I just installed that hitch on mine a few weeks ago. It does touch the bumper cover just slightly... just enough to see it flex a tiny bit when you tighten the receiver's bolts. I ended up having to take mine back off in order to get the wiring harness bracket off so that I could modify it. You can't open the lid in the stock position. While I had it off I trimmed about 1/2" off of the bottom of the center bumper detail... very easy with an X-acto blade. No details on the trimming, but it wasn't really even necessary.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/84447-little-more-utility-my-suv.html

~Doozi
 
Thanks Doozi, I looked at your thread, do you have any pictures of the mount locations under the truck? Also, how long did it take you to install?
 
I'll go take some pics... mounting points, the modified wiring bracket, and I'll see if I can get a shot of the little piece I trimmed off of the bumper. Stay tuned...
 
OK... I'm trying this completely from my iPhone so I hope that the pictures are oriented properly.

Driver-side mounting bolts
e3cca87f.jpg~original


Exhaust hanger near resonator... just pry the bottom off of the post with a large screwdriver
dd69afa4.jpg~original


Passenger-side mounting bolts from directly below (showing the exhaust interference)... with a long socket extension you can get up there easily as the unhooked exhaust can be pulled out of the way
82a93ab8.jpg~original


Modified wiring bracket... I cut the ribs with a Dremel and then hammered the bracket flatter so the plug is more vertical and allows the cover to swing open (this has to be taken off before the receiver gets mounted). I primed and painted it after I cut and bent it to prevent rust
e73552e1.jpg~original


Hard to see without dropping the spare, but right behind the spare you can see the notch I cut out of the bumper... It was only across the center square detail (3 total on the bumper)
412de6df.jpg~original


Hope that helps! And when you go to install the bumper, you get set the passenger-side of the receiver up on top of the exhaust and focus on getting the driver-side bolts started.

Good luck!
 
BTW, it only took me about 30 minutes to install, but then I had to take it back off a week later to modify that wiring bracket! Didn't even think about that little plug hatch not being able to open far enough!
77b2fb63.jpg~original
 
Thanks man, it helped alot, but you said something about installing the bumper?? Did you have to take it off?
 
$161 delivered to my door from e-trailer dot com. I got my roof basket a few weeks later from them as well and both orders qualified for free shipping... over $150.
 
I found that using a little sandpaper to clean out the "nut" and going slowly by screwing in 1/2 turn at a time... back out and clean... helped w/ all the others. We are now hitch-i-fied!
 
Does anyone have any suggestions for the rusty nuts inside the frame that keep breaking off? :(
Yes the weld nuts eventually turn into little rust pimples that end up being completely inadequate later in life. My '06 OEM hitch was rusted pretty bad, and I wanted to put a new aftermarket one that had better corrosion resistance. The weld nuts were the weak spot in the removal process. After two broke loose, I realized that some bolt-drilling was in my future. But it's doable and those nuts can be substituted with a piece of threaded bar stock that is inserted into the frame where the old weld nut used to be. Just make sure it is a material that can take the load. Might not need to be grade 8 equivalent but it can't be soft. I can't remember what grade I used but that was a couple years ago and my Draw Tite hitch is pulling our 21' travel trailer like a champ!
 

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