Is that even what they are called? I want to add a pair to my bull bar. Not looking for crazy expensive, I'd even be happy with a used pair. PIAA, KC, Hella seem to be the most popular and also the most expensive, any other suggestions? Not looking for a light bar, round lights is preferred. Thanks in advance.
Best budget driving lamps?
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phattyduck
Elite Member
Street use? Off road only? Beam pattern? Halogen, HID or LED? Preferred diameter?
I have a set of DOT legal (fog pattern) LED cubes and a set of off road "combo" pattern LED cubes. I use the fogs on the street and the off-road lights on on a completely separate switch (can be on or off anytime). Neither of mine are budget though... (Rigid and Baja Designs)
-Charlie
I have a set of DOT legal (fog pattern) LED cubes and a set of off road "combo" pattern LED cubes. I use the fogs on the street and the off-road lights on on a completely separate switch (can be on or off anytime). Neither of mine are budget though... (Rigid and Baja Designs)
-Charlie
" Street use? Off road only? Beam pattern? Halogen, HID or LED? Preferred diameter?"
I guess I never really knew how many options there were to be honest. To answer your question though. I'd say mainly Street use, and I fish a lot, so some not so "off-road" but more or less, in the woods, creeks, rivers.
Thanks for your input phatty.
I guess I never really knew how many options there were to be honest. To answer your question though. I'd say mainly Street use, and I fish a lot, so some not so "off-road" but more or less, in the woods, creeks, rivers.
Thanks for your input phatty.
Romeo1
Member
Most add on lights are off-road only or considered a “driving light”. Basically to use in a high beam situation.
Manufacturers self certify to FMVSS standards when it comes to lights.
There’s plenty of budget options for add on lights. But a better headlight? Your stuck with good bulbs like silver stars are you go down on the conversion HID/LED rabbit hole. led replacement bulbs with halogen housings are a joke.
Good clear housings and good bulbs like a Sylvania silverstar should be where you start. 30-60$. Mine on high put out great light. It’s hard to compare against most newer vehicles. But honestly, the headlights on the 4Runners rock in my opinion. Way better than so many other cars.
From there, it’s probably some Amazon or eBay special. Some of the parts houses carry low cost led bars and pods now too.
Round lights are hard to make cheap. That’s why your having a hard time finding one.
Manufacturers self certify to FMVSS standards when it comes to lights.
There’s plenty of budget options for add on lights. But a better headlight? Your stuck with good bulbs like silver stars are you go down on the conversion HID/LED rabbit hole. led replacement bulbs with halogen housings are a joke.
Good clear housings and good bulbs like a Sylvania silverstar should be where you start. 30-60$. Mine on high put out great light. It’s hard to compare against most newer vehicles. But honestly, the headlights on the 4Runners rock in my opinion. Way better than so many other cars.
From there, it’s probably some Amazon or eBay special. Some of the parts houses carry low cost led bars and pods now too.
Round lights are hard to make cheap. That’s why your having a hard time finding one.
19963.4lsr5
New member
I have Blazer International C8011 rear mount tractor lights on my 97 because they were the only light that fits the factory mount. (They also have a Flood pattern light C8010)
I have the Napa premium H2 bulbs in since I finally had one of the stock bulbs fail. At 14v they pull a combined 12a which equals 84w per bulb.
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I have the Napa premium H2 bulbs in since I finally had one of the stock bulbs fail. At 14v they pull a combined 12a which equals 84w per bulb.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
jross20
New member
Honestly a lot of people don't agree, but I would definitely recommend hologen lights.
Reason being that most LEDs nowadays are very cheaply made; they're always making them like 6500 Kelvin, which is absolutely horrible for your night vision at night and they normally have horrible CRI (color rendering index)
If you absolutely want LED, and I will try to get something that is no higher than 3000 to 3500 kelvin. But at the end of the day it's just easier to go with halogen. Plus when the bulb burns out you can replace it. Practically all of that led crap now days are completely on serviceable and will die at some point.
I've been looking at some hella, but recently some of the ARB ones too. You can also check out KC daylighters, which are very awesome but they are expensive. (Like 180$ for a pair)
Reason being that most LEDs nowadays are very cheaply made; they're always making them like 6500 Kelvin, which is absolutely horrible for your night vision at night and they normally have horrible CRI (color rendering index)
If you absolutely want LED, and I will try to get something that is no higher than 3000 to 3500 kelvin. But at the end of the day it's just easier to go with halogen. Plus when the bulb burns out you can replace it. Practically all of that led crap now days are completely on serviceable and will die at some point.
I've been looking at some hella, but recently some of the ARB ones too. You can also check out KC daylighters, which are very awesome but they are expensive. (Like 180$ for a pair)
so you drive in creeks and rivers too ? ( referencing your last sentence, thats how it reads to me)
but that aside...if your on a tight budget you are pretty much stuck with LED light bars
thenightman
New member
Honestly the first thing you should do, as others have said is make sure your headlights as usefully as bright as possible.
As for auxiliary lights, there are three basic kinds of "lenses" or types.
Flood- wide pattern, shoots light pretty much everywhere, so it doesn't go far, but lights up both sides of the trail really well.
Spot, or "pencil beam" - usually 5°, maybe 10° spread. Shoots pretty much straight forward only, nothing to the sides
Combo, "euro", or "driving" - a mix of the top two
Floods are good in tight, windey trails, where you are constantly turning so directly in front of you there is always a tree or bush.
Spots are great for clearer more open areas, think of them as an extra set of better high beam.
Combo lenses mix the two, usually because its cheaply designed and manufactured. They are trying to be spots, but doing a bad job and just throwing light everywhere.
If floods are what you need, get something cheap off Amazon with good reviews. It's easy to manufacture a housing that is super bright and just throws out light everywhere.
If you want longer range then pony up the cash for a name brand. I like diode dynamics, high quality yet cheaper then the others. They are easily double as useful as my high beams in the desert. The optics involved in making a tight pattern, long reaching light are much more expensive. If you find an ebay light that calls itself a "spot' for a good price, it isnt really a spot.
As for auxiliary lights, there are three basic kinds of "lenses" or types.
Flood- wide pattern, shoots light pretty much everywhere, so it doesn't go far, but lights up both sides of the trail really well.
Spot, or "pencil beam" - usually 5°, maybe 10° spread. Shoots pretty much straight forward only, nothing to the sides
Combo, "euro", or "driving" - a mix of the top two
Floods are good in tight, windey trails, where you are constantly turning so directly in front of you there is always a tree or bush.
Spots are great for clearer more open areas, think of them as an extra set of better high beam.
Combo lenses mix the two, usually because its cheaply designed and manufactured. They are trying to be spots, but doing a bad job and just throwing light everywhere.
If floods are what you need, get something cheap off Amazon with good reviews. It's easy to manufacture a housing that is super bright and just throws out light everywhere.
If you want longer range then pony up the cash for a name brand. I like diode dynamics, high quality yet cheaper then the others. They are easily double as useful as my high beams in the desert. The optics involved in making a tight pattern, long reaching light are much more expensive. If you find an ebay light that calls itself a "spot' for a good price, it isnt really a spot.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Understanding the goal/use of the light is what drives me (pardon the pun) to a selection.
I Installed an ARB bumper, lost factory fogs and added a set of PIAA dogs on the factory switch. I use them as fogs. I could see having them full time operational.
My next rig will have fogs, perimeter lights and undercarriage/wheel well ditch lights for wheeling.
Budget will be a consideration.
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
I Installed an ARB bumper, lost factory fogs and added a set of PIAA dogs on the factory switch. I use them as fogs. I could see having them full time operational.
My next rig will have fogs, perimeter lights and undercarriage/wheel well ditch lights for wheeling.
Budget will be a consideration.
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
