Best lift option?

9

98 Sr5

New member
I posted this in the suspension subforum but didn't get any replies so I'm posting it here.

I have a 98 Sr5 4runner and since I took it off road for the first time I've been looking to get it lifted a little bit. Do all of these options make sense? Also, which one would be the best for the money?

OME 2.5 inch lift - Just new springs

Toytec 3inch lift with coils and spacers

Toytec 2.5 inch lift with front spacers and rear coils

Toytec 3 inch lift w/ rear coils and spacers

I would like to put an additional 1-2 inch body lift on. I probly wont be able to afford shocks at the same time so that would come down the line if ever.

Also, what other complications would I run into with the additional bl?

Thanks
 
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Pretty vague question really. But no point in doing it until you can do it right. I just lifted mine (mild lift) with OME 906 rear springs and spacers in front with my stock 99 tall springs. My truck will see very little off road use so it's perfect for my use. The lift heights that you're considering will all need shocks. Save your money til you can do it right. Then re-evaluate and see if you need the body lift and all the stiff that goes along with that.

That's my $.02. Take it for what you will.
 
My advice? Lift it 3", or more, and don't look back. Taller suspension lift, with in reason, is better than a tall body lift.

Coils front and back are the best way to go.

The ToyTec Ultimate lift is nice. It's great having coilovers so you can fine tune the front height to exactly what you want.

You don't NEED new shocks but...
The front coils are built over the shocks so the labor to mount the coil on a new or old shock will be the same.

The rears may work with your stock shocks. They will limit wheel droop and may top out on bumps on the road giving you a strange ride.
 
Ok thanks for the information. Let me give you a little more info to help me out. Yes I did read the lift information sticky but there were a lot of questions left unanswered afterward.

What type of off roading do I do? Mostly mild mud trails, medium hills. No real rock crawling or anything.

As for the people who suggested the ultimate lift, I have to say with the new tires I'd have to get I would rather not get the Toytec Ultimate seeing how I work maybe 14 hours a week on minimum wage
 
got butt sag?

see sticky at top of page- "about rear sag"

Being a 98 your springs may never have been replaced under warranty.

Run you VIN# by a dealership and see if they can help you out at no charge-hard to believe but true!

I'd encourage you to consider a body lift first. I did a simple 1" body lift by 4crawler.com and after doing so I got a lot more notice along the lines of "Hey you lifted your truck-looks good". The higher you go it gets a bit more complicated. It may seem silly to only do one inch-but it's noticeable and may give you that "stance" you desire at a lot lower cost than doing all 4 corners of suspension.

There are several complications when you body lift. The 4crawler site points out what they are. Separation of the body from the front bumper is one. Gear shifter position is another. Stretching of the engine compartment access flaps tucked behind the wheels is one I recently noticed.

See the Sonoran Steel website also for a host of other options.

The choices are endless....
 
my $.02....

I had the same question a while ago. I did a lot of research and asking around. I ended up going with OME springs and shocks and I have loved it ever since.
improved on and off road handling and took about 3-4 hours to throw on in a driveway. I would recommend saving up and doing the springs and shocks at once. only have to take stuff apart once instead of twice and they are built for each other.

I would stay away from a body lift for now, see how you like the new suspension and go from there, that is what I am doing at least.

just make sure to choose the right weight combo for the back and front depending on your needs.

I did a lot of research into a bunch of different options, I would be happy to pass along any of the info I found if it will help you out. Let me know. good luck.
 
Skrimz said:
my $.02....

I had the same question a while ago. I did a lot of research and asking around. I ended up going with OME springs and shocks and I have loved it ever since.
improved on and off road handling and took about 3-4 hours to throw on in a driveway. I would recommend saving up and doing the springs and shocks at once. only have to take stuff apart once instead of twice and they are built for each other.

I would stay away from a body lift for now, see how you like the new suspension and go from there, that is what I am doing at least.

just make sure to choose the right weight combo for the back and front depending on your needs.

I did a lot of research into a bunch of different options, I would be happy to pass along any of the info I found if it will help you out. Let me know. good luck.
Click to expand...

Can you please post what springs you went with and possibly post a picture? I am getting close to pulling the trigger on the full OME kit but am still undecided on which springs to get. Thanks In Advance.
 
Ron wrote:
Being a 98 your springs may never have been replaced under warranty.
Run you VIN# by a dealership and see if they can help you out at no charge-hard to believe but true!

I think that recall is done, I got my truck '98 Runner 2 months ago and that was the first thing I checked. I went to the Toyota recall site and put my VIN# and no recalls came back. I know for a fact the original owner never had the recall work done either.

'99 coils are pretty cheap anyway - I found them for $77 new, it's just a pain in the arse that labor/installation cost more than the springs.
 
i went with OME and am very happy with it.

882 cause I got a front bumper and soon to be winch.
890's till I get a rear bumper.
got about 2.5 inches of lift in the front and 3 in the rear, fits my new tires 265-75-16 and might even let me use a 285 if i ever go that route.

done once and will only have to change the rear springs when I get a rear bumper that will be heavier.

my .02

I am off an inch on each side. driver is one inch less, but not noticable unless you actually measure. I am guessing cause of the full gas tank.

best of luck cause its a touch choice.

and there are plenty of places to get OME stuff.

TOYTEC
Cruiser Outfitters in UT

I got mine local.
 
Thanks for the help guys. Ive decided to get the ome spring and shocks but I still have a few questions.

Medium and Light duty shocks - Is there a reason I would want medium shocks even if im not planning on getting a new off road bumper?

On rocky road there is the complete ome suspension that says it includes front and rear shocks and springs for $724 but on the same site you can buy the front and rear shocks and springs for a few hundred less. What else comes with the complete kit that makes it cost so much more?
 
MTDewX8 said:
I am off an inch on each side. driver is one inch less, but not noticable unless you actually measure. I am guessing cause of the full gas tank.
Click to expand...

Are you sure you got the "A" coils on the driver's side and the "B" coils on the pass.? An inch is a lot for a side to side difference. I've seen .5", but that seems like a lot more than normal.

98 Sr5 said:
On rocky road there is the complete ome suspension that says it includes front and rear shocks and springs for $724 but on the same site you can buy the front and rear shocks and springs for a few hundred less. What else comes with the complete kit that makes it cost so much more?
Click to expand...

That $724 is for the 4 coils and 4 shocks. The cheaper price you say must not have included all 4 of each. BTW, Toytec's price is $699 and they only charge $100 to assemble the fronts (which I highly recommend). It looks like Rocky Road charges an additional $190 to assemble them. Plus Toytec is an active member on here and if you PM steezemqueen, he can give you a discount code for an additiional 5% or so.
 
Need help with Bilstein 5100 install on front end

Hope I'm posting in correct section. I swapped out the original stock front shocks on my 2000 4runner SR5 with Bilstein 5100s adjustables and used the stock springs. I chose the highest setting on the Bilsteins of 2.5 inches and I can't figure out how to lift or what to loosen on the suspension to finish the install as I now need more room (2.5 inches) to install them. I've tried searching the forum but can't find the answer. Thanks in advance:ybrick:
 
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PipoToyo said:
Hope I'm posting in correct section. I swapped out the original stock front shocks on my 2000 4runner SR5 with Bilstein 5100s adjustables and used the stock springs. I chose the highest setting on the Bilsteins of 2.5 inches and I can't figure out how to lift or what to loosen on the suspension to finish the install as I now need more room (2.5 inches) to install them. I've tried searching the forum but can't find the answer. Thanks in advance:ybrick:
Click to expand...

Nothing on the suspension to loosen. You mount the top in the coil bucket and then you may have to pry the lower control arm down to get the lower bolt through the eye in the shock.
 
See attached pics. I'm using the handle of my 3 ton jack to pry the lower control arm and there is no way it's going to work. I akso loosened the sway bar at the wheel and no go. Maybe have to loisen up outer tie rod? Wondering if I have to adjust the setting on the shock to 1.5 or lower?
 

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Piece of cake. Just find a pry bar or pipe to push the lower arm down more to squish the bumpstops more until you can get the bolt in.
 
What part number were the bilsteens that you us3d with your stock coils?

What spring/shock did you choose for the rear?

I’m looking at doing the same thing soon.
 
PipoToyo said:
Wondering if I have to adjust the setting on the shock to 1.5 or lower?
Click to expand...
The shock extended length is the same no matter what the lift setting is.

You need a pry bar between the upper am pivot (next to the shock tower) and the upper arm. Push down on that, and the shock will fit right in.

Alternatively (and more correctly), you can loosen the two lower a-arm pivot bolts (adjusters) and the upper a-arm pivot bolt and the suspension will droop completely. From there, you will have to jack the lower arm back up to meet the shock. Re-tighten the upper and lower pivot bolts with the suspension at the new ride height.

Here is my truck with the same front shocks with a 3/8" top plate spacer to prove that there is even a bit of extra room, even with the stock top arms:

SemurwHh.jpg


-Charlie
 
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