Best locker for 98 V6?

Rifter

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Ive got a 98 limited V6 and am looking to add a locker. This is a factory elocker diff but the previous owner(s) has screwed up the locker, it didnt work when i got it and when i went to look into it the actuator on the diff was gooped with RTV like ive never seen before, amd when i opened it up to see if i could repair it by glueing the magenets back on as you usually can with these i found magnets missing and it looked like it was beyond repair.

So here i am looking for other locker options. so recommendations please.

I do DD this vehicle so keep that in mind, i also wheel it fairly hard on the weekends.
 
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Ive got a 98 limited V6 and am looking to add a locker. This is a factory elocker diff but the previous owner(s) has screwed up the locker, it didnt work when i got it and when i went to look into it the actuator on the diff was gooped with RTV like ive never seen before, amd when i opened it up to see if i could repair it by glueing the magenets back on as you usually can with these i found magnets missing and it looked like it was beyond repair.

So here i am looking for other locker options. so recommendations please.

I do DD this vehicle so keep that in mind, i also wheel it fairly hard on the weekends.

Best option is another e locker.
 
Ive got a 98 limited V6 and am looking to add a locker. This is a factory elocker diff but the previous owner(s) has screwed up the locker, it didnt work when i got it and when i went to look into it the actuator on the diff was gooped with RTV like ive never seen before, amd when i opened it up to see if i could repair it by glueing the magenets back on as you usually can with these i found magnets missing and it looked like it was beyond repair.

So here i am looking for other locker options. so recommendations please.

I do DD this vehicle so keep that in mind, i also wheel it fairly hard on the weekends.

More info on your use: Are you running bigger than 35s? If so....an ARB/Zip will be stronger. Up to that tire size, it probably doesn't really matter.

Problem is, you'll also need an open third member and a different housing if you go ARB/Zip....so Jay's right....an e locker makes the most economical sense.
 
Best option is another e locker.

Obviously, however they are as rare as gold around here, you are looking at $800-1000 used, more new from a dealer if they can even get one.

And if im going to spend that i may as well go with a stronger ARB.

This Im looking more into the lunchbox locker or yukon Grizzley side of things i dont want to spend a fortune on this old rig but do want a locker.
 
More info on your use: Are you running bigger than 35s? If so....an ARB/Zip will be stronger. Up to that tire size, it probably doesn't really matter.

Problem is, you'll also need an open third member and a different housing if you go ARB/Zip....so Jay's right....an e locker makes the most economical sense.

Im running 2" of lift and 33's.

I was unaware i would need to swap housings, i thought i could just remove the e locker actuator weld up the hole and drop in a new locker. Can i drop a yukon grizzley into my housing?
 
Im running 2" of lift and 33's.

I was unaware i would need to swap housings, i thought i could just remove the e locker actuator weld up the hole and drop in a new locker. Can i drop a yukon grizzley into my housing?

The housing is cut out for the elocker, but you didn't mention you can fab. If that's the case, weld it up and put in a Grizzly, IMO. However, have you run a full carrier locker like that before? If not, you may not like the on road characteristics....especially with a smaller tire. The bigger the tire, the less you notice it. Also, if you drive on ice, auto lockers can be a little more sketchy in that the accelerator becomes like the brakes....you don't want to give sudden inputs.

You're still going to have to buy an open 7.8" third you can stuff the Grizzly in.
 
The housing is cut out for the elocker, but you didn't mention you can fab. If that's the case, weld it up and put in a Grizzly, IMO. However, have you run a full carrier locker like that before? If not, you may not like the on road characteristics....especially with a smaller tire. The bigger the tire, the less you notice it. Also, if you drive on ice, auto lockers can be a little more sketchy in that the accelerator becomes like the brakes....you don't want to give sudden inputs.

You're still going to have to buy an open 7.8" third you can stuff the Grizzly in.

Ive run the full carrier lockers before on my old chevy 3/4 ton, it was on 38's though. Ill get by DD's the runner with one, time to look for a used 3rd i guess.
 
Ive run the full carrier lockers before on my old chevy 3/4 ton, it was on 38's though. Ill get by DD's the runner with one, time to look for a used 3rd i guess.

If that's the case, I'd go Grizzly and not think twice about i.
 
Search for yards with the entire axle assembly with the locker. I just did the swap in my 2000 and only cost $450, very simple. Make sure your gear ratios match though or you'll have to get the front diff as well
 
Obviously, however they are as rare as gold around here, you are looking at $800-1000 used, more new from a dealer if they can even get one.

And if im going to spend that i may as well go with a stronger ARB.

This Im looking more into the lunchbox locker or yukon Grizzley side of things i dont want to spend a fortune on this old rig but do want a locker.

I'm going to AABC wreckers on Mitchell Island tomorrow, if thay have something I'll let you know. They have a few 4runners there, one may have a locking diff, I took one of them. You gotta be on top of it, the mint complete axle with locker I picked up for $350.

Kaizen will overcharge.
 

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